Newbie Lathe Choice

[matthew-s]

Hi - I'm very new here. I've been reading as much as I can, but I still have a few questions.

I'd like to try my hand at building a few engines. I'm initially interested in Steam, but I could see myself doing a Sterling and a Hit and Miss too. I'm also attracted to the cast iron kits, as I really love the victorian / industrial era look of those.

It seems like the first thing to look at getting is a lathe. . .

In the sub $1k category, it seems like the choices are Taig, Sherline and Micro Mark.

I recognize there are a few other choices, but I'd like to get a tool that works out of the box. I have limited project time, and I'd rather not get a "pre-built kit" lathe, as I've seen some described. I gather the MicroMark is not as kit-like as the Harbor Freight, and perhaps even Grizzly, but possibly not as accurate as the Taig and Sherline.

I find the choice particularly difficult between the Sherline and the MicroMark, as they are basically the same price.

My main question is, when it comes to choosing between these two classes of lathes (Taig and Sherline on one end, and the MicroMark on the other), how much am I really giving up with respect to the types of projects I can take on?

If one was to get the riser blocks for the Taig and Sherline, can you basically work the same size projects as the MicroMark? Or no?

My guess is the limiting factor is the flywheel sizes that I can work, which in turn limits the kits I can take on. Is this the right way to look at it?

I hope I'm being clear. I've seen general topics about these lathes here, but nothing along the lines of "the micro lathes will take you up to projects like "X", and the MicroMark will get you to projects like "Y""

Also - If I'm missing an option to the MicroMark in the <$1k / 7x class, let me know.

Thanks.

 

[matthew-s]

Oh - and if matters my total shop space is limited to 8' x 12'.

 

[sssfox]

Matthew,

I can't say I would recommend either of those as a first choice.

Even though the rated capacity is 7", the useful capacity is around 3" to 4". It's the tool post as well as the power of the motor that really sets the max capacity. I think that if you buy a 7" lathe, you will regret it within six months to a year.

I have 4", 6", 7" and 12" lathes and I use them all for different things. My 12" is an old Atlas that belonged to my dad.

If I were in your shoes, I would start by looking for an old 9", 10" or 12" lathe on Craig's list. Also remember that you will probably spend more on tooling for the lathe than you do on the lathe. Often, depending on where you live, you can find a lathe that comes with enough tooling to get you started for under $1000, sometimes, well under $1000.

A light 12" lathe doesn't take up much more room than a 7" one.

Steve Fox

 

[sssfox]

You should probably start looking for a small milling machine, too.

I can tell you from experience that you will never be completely happy with a milling attachment for a lathe. They lack rigidity and have too many limitations.

There goes another $1000!

 

[Tin Falcon]

Mathew:

Fist of all thanks for posting an introduction and separating this question from the intro.

The Miro mark is likely not a bad choice in the sub 1K range. the other Obvious choice for a similar product is Littlemachineshop .com But I generally point folks on the east coast to MM and folks on the west coast to lms for large items like a lathe or mill due to shipping costs. That is unless you are attending a ME show like cabin fever or NAMES.

For you I suggest you hook up with the guys at http://www.neme-s.org/
and before you rush off to place an order see if one of the NEMES guys can get you to http://www.brothersmachinery.com/

I have traveled to the NEMES Show several times now they are a great group.

If you have your heart set on kits then size is a little more important. An yes the size of the lathe limits the size of the flywheel .

My first lathe was a grizzly 7x more mass and the ability to thread .

Tin

 

[mikbul]

Hi - I'm very new here. I've been reading as much as I can, but I still have a few questions.

I'd like to try my hand at building a few engines. I'm initially interested in Steam, but I could see myself doing a Sterling and a Hit and Miss too. I'm also attracted to the cast iron kits, as I really love the victorian / industrial era look of those.

It seems like the first thing to look at getting is a lathe. . .

In the sub $1k category, it seems like the choices are Taig, Sherline and Micro Mark.

I recognize there are a few other choices, but I'd like to get a tool that works out of the box. I have limited project time, and I'd rather not get a "pre-built kit" lathe, as I've seen some described. I gather the MicroMark is not as kit-like as the Harbor Freight, and perhaps even Grizzly, but possibly not as accurate as the Taig and Sherline.

I find the choice particularly difficult between the Sherline and the MicroMark, as they are basically the same price.

My main question is, when it comes to choosing between these two classes of lathes (Taig and Sherline on one end, and the MicroMark on the other), how much am I really giving up with respect to the types of projects I can take on?

If one was to get the riser blocks for the Taig and Sherline, can you basically work the same size projects as the MicroMark? Or no?

My guess is the limiting factor is the flywheel sizes that I can work, which in turn limits the kits I can take on. Is this the right way to look at it?

I hope I'm being clear. I've seen general topics about these lathes here, but nothing along the lines of "the micro lathes will take you up to projects like "X", and the MicroMark will get you to projects like "Y""

Also - If I'm missing an option to the MicroMark in the <$1k / 7x class, let me know.

Thanks.

I had the Micromark 7X16 and it was a great lathe. It also comes in Three boxes so UPS instead of freight.
The motor is very powerful for a small lathe. I also got the premium tool package with it and I'm still using it on my SB1001.
Clean up wasn't as nearly as bad as most but get the 4" chuck for it some time. It also has a camlock tailstock which I miss on my current lathe.
I have some photos of prototypes I turned on it, I'll look them up.
Mikbul

 

[mikbul]

Actually it was two boxes, That's a piece of 2" aluminum and some brass I turned shortly after getting it. That's the four inch chuck but after that for tubing I used the three inch on the inside of the tube.

 

[Nerdz]

Hello!

I currently have the 7x16 lathe from Micromark. Before Buying it I'll give you the ups and downs of owning it.

The Good:

The lathe is pretty good. Ive made two engines so far on it, so it is reasonably accurate. I havent measured the run out on the 3 jaw. The lathe Cuts Aluminum Very well, and Im able to take deep cuts of over 20 thou, even though the manual says not to. Ive cut brass, W1 steel, and I have tried Stainless (304). 12L14 Cuts like butter. The inch markings are what sold me on this lathe. It was also very clean when I got it. If your bit gets stuck and grabs while doing parting operation, the lathe "sees" this and shuts down. This feature has probably saved my lathe quite a few times

The bad:

Dont expect the gibs to be adjusted right out of the box. I have to take the cross slide apart and actually lap it using some rubbing compound and brass-o. It took maybe 2 hrs. After the lapping process it ran like a champ. I also had to modify the "Zero Setting Dial" (or w/e it is) because they wouldnt work properly. I lapped the sides and also put a set screw in one. As of Right now, I can only fit up to a little bit over a 3'' piece of aluminum and have my tool get to it. Not much of a limit.

My Advice: If this is what you can afford then get it. Get a 4 Jaw ASAP. Atleast you can make Square Parts. Then get a QCTP. Or get that first.

 

[mikbul]

Hello!

I currently have the 7x16 lathe from Micromark. Before Buying it I'll give you the ups and downs of owning it.

The Good:

The lathe is pretty good. Ive made two engines so far on it, so it is reasonably accurate. I havent measured the run out on the 3 jaw. The lathe Cuts Aluminum Very well, and Im able to take deep cuts of over 20 thou, even though the manual says not to. Ive cut brass, W1 steel, and I have tried Stainless (304). 12L14 Cuts like butter. The inch markings are what sold me on this lathe. It was also very clean when I got it. If your bit gets stuck and grabs while doing parting operation, the lathe "sees" this and shuts down. This feature has probably saved my lathe quite a few times

The bad:

Dont expect the gibs to be adjusted right out of the box. I have to take the cross slide apart and actually lap it using some rubbing compound and brass-o. It took maybe 2 hrs. After the lapping process it ran like a champ. I also had to modify the "Zero Setting Dial" (or w/e it is) because they wouldnt work properly. I lapped the sides and also put a set screw in one. As of Right now, I can only fit up to a little bit over a 3'' piece of aluminum and have my tool get to it. Not much of a limit.

My Advice: If this is what you can afford then get it. Get a 4 Jaw ASAP. Atleast you can make Square Parts. Then get a QCTP. Or get that first.

I agree about the 4 jaw though I got a 4" and the Tormach OXA QCTP. I got the QCTP first. Here's a picture of it, don't mind the aluminum, I was running way too slow with carbide.

 

[aonemarine]

Im not familiar with any of the lathes your looking at, but if it were me I would be surfing craigslist for a SouthBend 9" or 10K with a quick change gear box. But then again maybe im just partial to mine....

 

[matthew-s]

Matthew,

I can't say I would recommend either of those as a first choice.

Even though the rated capacity is 7", the useful capacity is around 3" to 4". It's the tool post as well as the power of the motor that really sets the max capacity. I think that if you buy a 7" lathe, you will regret it within six months to a year.

I have 4", 6", 7" and 12" lathes and I use them all for different things. My 12" is an old Atlas that belonged to my dad.

If I were in your shoes, I would start by looking for an old 9", 10" or 12" lathe on Craig's list. Also remember that you will probably spend more on tooling for the lathe than you do on the lathe. Often, depending on where you live, you can find a lathe that comes with enough tooling to get you started for under $1000, sometimes, well under $1000.

A light 12" lathe doesn't take up much more room than a 7" one.

Steve Fox

Thanks. Some of those get big fast though. Whatever I get I need to get it down to the basement without a crew of millwrights



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[matthew-s]

Mathew:



Fist of all thanks for posting an introduction and separating this question from the intro.



The Miro mark is likely not a bad choice in the sub 1K range. the other Obvious choice for a similar product is Littlemachineshop .com But I generally point folks on the east coast to MM and folks on the west coast to lms for large items like a lathe or mill due to shipping costs. That is unless you are attending a ME show like cabin fever or NAMES.



For you I suggest you hook up with the guys at http://www.neme-s.org/

and before you rush off to place an order see if one of the NEMES guys can get you to http://www.brothersmachinery.com/



I have traveled to the NEMES Show several times now they are a great group.



If you have your heart set on kits then size is a little more important. An yes the size of the lathe limits the size of the flywheel .



My first lathe was a grizzly 7x more mass and the ability to thread .



Tin

Thanks. I did actually pop into name-s meeting this month. It was not an organized meeting this time, so it was hard to tell who was in charge and there was no natural way to star taking questions. I'll probably visits another meeting though.

Grizzly does seem to have a new 8x. For approachable money. How does that brand stack up in the "ready to use" category?


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines

 

[matthew-s]

Hello!

I currently have the 7x16 lathe from Micromark. Before Buying it I'll give you the ups and downs of owning it.

The Good:

. . .

Thanks. Very helpful. Two follow ups.

I see lots of references related to finishing the gibs on these machines. How diddly is that? Is it an obvious process?

Second. What kind / size engines are you building on this machine?



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[mikbul]

Not to answer for NERDZ but lapping the gibbs is easy. You have to take it apart to clean it anyway so before assembly take care of it. I think I have some photos of disassembly of my 8K that would be helpful, It's not a lot of disassembly that you have to do and you get to know the machine in the process. You can put off messing with the gibbs also, do it anytime. It will give you a tighter and smoother sliding dovetail.
Mikbul

 

[mikbul]

Hi mattew s
Here are those photos of my 8K coming apart and the 7X16 will be almost identical.
The crosslide and compound slide are slid off the carriage

 

[mikbul]

Carriage and crosslide upside down with crosslide most of the way out of Carriage. You can see the gib on the right side, the long thin piece of metal and the adjusting screws & lock nuts outside the crosslide.

 

[mikbul]

A photo looking the other way and gib is on left a one adjusting screw visible. In the back are the Carriage adjusters

 

[mikbul]

Crosslide with compound slide still on top with gib adjusters visible. Bare bed way with apron supported but laying down. On the 8K the apron was spotless so no need to take it off. After I slid the Apron to the end for support. The 7X16 Apron needs to be cleaned and it will silde off after the lead screw pillow block is removed. Note: On re-assembly leave pillow block loose to last step, run carriage down to the pillow block, tighten the half nut lever then tighten the pillow block.

 

[mikbul]

Hope this was helpful
Mikbul

 

[Tin Falcon]

Decisions decisions.

IMHO if I had to choose a lathe from the import market and had about 1300 limit I would put my money on the grizzly go602 10 x 22 .

same actually less money than the new 8 x 16 but it is twice the lathe.
the 768 you need to switch gears for each threading task. the 10x has more power more swing ... the 10 x includes a 4" chuck the 8X does not.

The only real advantages I see with the 8 x is infinite variable speed and the tach. . While nice to me not enough reason to give up all the advantages found on the 10"

The 10" you will likely have to take as much off as you can to get in basement.
But where there is a will there is a way.
I suggest you download the manual for each lathe you are considering and read them . also carefully read the accessory and specifications list.


the 8" has the chuck mounted with studs a pain to change the 10" has a threaded spindle nose easier to change. .....

Tin