Newbie and the Cylinder

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Looks good.
Is there room for the nuts on the tailstock?

'wazzit' engine?
'clueless' engine?
'dunno' engine?
'wannabe' engine?
'itsan' engine?

I like the last one. But start with 'gonbe' engine.
 
zeeprogrammer said:
Looks good.
Is there room for the nuts on the tailstock?

Gets cold on the east coast does it? :)

'wazzit' engine?
'clueless' engine?
'dunno' engine?
'wannabe' engine?
'itsan' engine?

I like the last one. But start with 'gonbe' engine.

delusional engine . . .

But, returning like a squirrel checking to see if there is room. That's where a piloted counter bore would be called for. Cut reliefs into the tailstock, be a nice feature, I'm not gonna try it, nothing firm enough to hold (don't say it) those tolerances.

Robert
 
"Gets cold on the East Coast does it?......" Rof} Rof}

BC1
Jim
 
zeeprogrammer said:
Looking good.
How does air/steam get in/out?

Think I figured it out, going for as simple as possible. Sliding piston, cutaway view. Air enters from top and travels along cavity running thru the chest. Each end of chest has hole running to cylinder. Piston has a close fit journal at each end that covers/uncovers the ports. Piston moves forward and allows air to enter forward port (front side of cylinder) while letting air out of the backside of cylinder. Air will just exit thru the gap between the piston shaft and chest end holes. Not very elegant but should be functional. Trick is going to making it work. Small pieces BLAH! Chest is/will be about 1 inch long and 1/2 inch wide.

Drawing it up as I go along. Kinda how can I make it work with the stone axe and flint knive I currently have available.

Clyinder-a14.jpg


Clyinder-a14.jpg
 
The chest is no bigger than the clamps we're making?

Where is cylinder in relation to chest? (It may be obvious but I'm still learning how these things work.)
 
zeeprogrammer said:
The chest is no bigger than the clamps we're making?

Yup, just 'bout the same size.

Where is cylinder in relation to chest? (It may be obvious but I'm still learning how these things work.)
[/quote]

On top of cylinder

First crack at it show's plan is flawed, not design but procedure for making. Started with a block and drilled the hole for the piston. BUZZ, making the long 0.300 radius cut so it can match the outside of the cylinder is problematic.
Going to try and drill/bore the radius first, slit the block in half, then size it to fit

Also and I have read this somewhere, drilling deep holes tends to cause the bit to skew. It did, it does, about 10 thousands on the exit side. So will attack it from each end, hopefully meeting in the middle.

Will do some today, will post a pic of what i get. also have to work on car, change the tranny I blew up :) Easy 4-5 hour job that I stretch into days and weeks.

Thinking round over for the chest too, there is that word again :)

Robert
 
Started anew on the steam chest. Hunk of hex stock, used a milling attachment on the lathe to face of both ends with a fly cutter, located and drilled the piston valve hole (undersize for now) located and drilled a hole 0.500 inch that will end up being the mating surface to the cylinder 0.600 inch. All that perty straightforward, HMM a few months ago I'd never of said that.

Then the fun began, hunk of stock with an off center hole that needs to be bored out. Got a 4 jaw but, well it and I dont always see eye to eye, so went the 3 jaw and shim route. Lots of shims later and the hole is bored to size. So with some diddling you can offset bore with a 3 jaw. I stay well to the right of the chuck tho, just in case, but there are two points of contact per jaw so they stay put.

Pushed the cylinder in to test the fit, slide in easy enough but now its stuck, guess its a good fit :) Lots of material to yet remove, so far its a looking like a keeper



Clyinder-a15.jpg


Clyinder-a16.jpg
 
Foozer,
You can make the radius with a boring head. Put your block in the vise towards one side and line up the spindle on that side and center the y axis on your block. Put in a boring head and adjust for the radius you want.

Hope that makes sense?

Sean
 
Seanol said:
Foozer,
You can make the radius with a boring head. Put your block in the vise towards one side and line up the spindle on that side and center the y axis on your block. Put in a boring head and adjust for the radius you want.

Hope that makes sense?

Sean

Makes perfect sense, no boring head tho :) Really should get some more tooling, it would make some task go quicker. I'm retired and sort of like the challenge of using whats at hand, dinking around with the DTI, pencil and paper for 30 minutes to achieve the end result this time wasn't so bad.

A boring head is a good investment tho, not to make me a better mechanic but to make the process easier. No amount of tooling is of itself going to improve any talent I may or may not have, need to better grasp the process flow then acquire the tools to ease that flow.

If that makes sense? Like this piece of the puzzle, I drew it out, first crack at it picked the wrong point of reference, this time I'm using the larger radius that encompasses the cylinder and will work out from there. Figure if all the dimensions are based on a known good point, then they too should be good.

You asked :)

Tip well taken, thanks

Robert
 
Fooz', you never cease to amaze me. I'm am always interested to see what it is that you have 'brewing' when it comes to making do with the tools at hand. Remarkable really, and you make it interesting to watch as well. This is going to be one very sharp project when completed, I can't wait to see it. ;D

BC1
Jim
 
Well the hard part done, those long (1 inch) through holes in the chest. Drill a little, back it out, clear the chips, drill a little, back it out, clear the chips, drill a little . . .

Managed not to break a bit. Sort of a trial fit up. Stills seems a bit heavy on the eye, Have to find what can be removed to ease the visual.



Clyinder-a17.jpg
 
And here I thought drilling small long holes was a challenge, color me silly.

Made the piston valve for this steam chest, 0.188 dia, so the smaller the dia of the part, the smaller the cutting tools, having sharp cutting tools, adherence to having the tool on center, taking light cuts and in general more patience than a cat at the gopher hole is required.

But got er done and so of course while taking those repetitive cuts I began to wonder just how much of a reduction in shaft diameter is required to allow for smooth air flow. the entry/exit ports are 0.074 dia so I just reduced the shaft dia by half the port dia (ok 0.040) thinking that enough clearance should then exist to not be a restriction while maintaining as much shaft material as possible.

Too much thinking? back to OOH Shinny Things

So to date its starting to come together, left the stub on the end till I figure a means to operate it



Clyinder-a18.jpg
 
Looking good Robert.
I know very little about steam and haven't been able to get it in my head how it works. I'm very interested in the next step.

 

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