Powder keg
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Hey you got the pictures figured out:O) good Job!!! Both on the model and the pictures:O)
Wes
Wes
My first engine
- Thread starter Powder keg
- Start date
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dparker
In Rembrance 8/2021
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Birk: That is really impressive. I wonder if they had shows in Belgrade MT when I went to MSU in Bozeman in the 60s. That model must have taken more or at least as much work as building a steam locomotive. I am impressed with people that can stay with a project that is that complicated until it is completed.
Good job!------don
Good job!------don
DickDastardly40
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Very nice and nicely shined too! :bow: How long did it take you?
Congratulations.
Al
Congratulations.
Al
DICKEYBIRD
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Wow...a beautiful job indeed! ;D
I'm wanting to build a flame licker myself but haven't summoned the courage yet due to the rumoured difficulty in adjusting them to run properly. Have you run yours yet?
I'm wanting to build a flame licker myself but haven't summoned the courage yet due to the rumoured difficulty in adjusting them to run properly. Have you run yours yet?
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Hi Mike,
Glad you got around to showing the pictures, that engine is so nicely made, it is a shame to keep it to yourself.
A real nice job.
John
Glad you got around to showing the pictures, that engine is so nicely made, it is a shame to keep it to yourself.
A real nice job.
John
Cedge
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Mike
Impressive piece of work. It's good to see another lover of shiny metal...LOL. I'm one of those obsessive types that thinks "if it ain't polished, it ain't finished"....LOL. I'll admit I'm getting better. I'm actually making a tool that will have a brushed surface when I'm done. The new 12 step program seems to be helping a little...(wink).
Steve
Impressive piece of work. It's good to see another lover of shiny metal...LOL. I'm one of those obsessive types that thinks "if it ain't polished, it ain't finished"....LOL. I'll admit I'm getting better. I'm actually making a tool that will have a brushed surface when I'm done. The new 12 step program seems to be helping a little...(wink).
Steve
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Rick,
Has nobody told you, you have to light the wick.
DB,
Getting them to run is all the fun. They are slightly difficult to master, but once you find the sweet spot for the burner, and the correct temperature for the cylinder you can run them whenever you want. I run mine all the time (and it shows it, the cylinders are nearly black), because I love the way they operate.
John
Has nobody told you, you have to light the wick.
DB,
Getting them to run is all the fun. They are slightly difficult to master, but once you find the sweet spot for the burner, and the correct temperature for the cylinder you can run them whenever you want. I run mine all the time (and it shows it, the cylinders are nearly black), because I love the way they operate.
John
Brass_Machine
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Nice job Mike! Got those plans myself but haven't yet made the plunge.
Eric
Eric
B
Bogstandard
Guest
The first steps to get one of these running is set up the piston timing. Set it up wrong and you will be struggling.
The first thing is make sure you have the right sized operating lever hole in the contra piston. It should be slack, not a close fit. The next bit is to set the operating arm gap, the one where the bottom of the power piston hits.
Push down on the angled operating rod until it touches the top of the cylinder head, with the piston in the full out stroke, there should be approx 0.1mm gap between the bottom of the piston and the tip of the adjusting screw. Where the rod runs thru the cylinder is one of the few places you should put some very thin oil, it has to be almost friction free. I also, using a fine needle put a minute drop on the little end and one drop where the operating rod goes thru the hole on the top of the contra piston. Nothing at all anywhere near the bore and pistons.
The flame should be on the head side of the suck in hole. I find that a twenty second burn of a gas blowtorch is required to bring the cylinder up to temperature, then a few gentle suck ins of flame to get rid of the condensate in the cylinder. When things are getting very close to running you should find that the engine will start to 'pop' out of the suck in hole. This means that the engine is up to temperature and the piston is sealing. 1 or 2 mm out on the flame position, either up/down or side to side will be enough to stop it running. I use glass fibre wick so the flame stays the same shape and doesn't alter, as would do if a cotton wick is used.
I eventually fixed my own design burners into position, so it is warm up, light wicks, turn over by hand a couple of times and away it goes.
Maybe this will help, maybe it won't, but it is worth trying just to see if it does. I spent ages finding the settings for mine. But both are exactly the same settings.
John
The first thing is make sure you have the right sized operating lever hole in the contra piston. It should be slack, not a close fit. The next bit is to set the operating arm gap, the one where the bottom of the power piston hits.
Push down on the angled operating rod until it touches the top of the cylinder head, with the piston in the full out stroke, there should be approx 0.1mm gap between the bottom of the piston and the tip of the adjusting screw. Where the rod runs thru the cylinder is one of the few places you should put some very thin oil, it has to be almost friction free. I also, using a fine needle put a minute drop on the little end and one drop where the operating rod goes thru the hole on the top of the contra piston. Nothing at all anywhere near the bore and pistons.
The flame should be on the head side of the suck in hole. I find that a twenty second burn of a gas blowtorch is required to bring the cylinder up to temperature, then a few gentle suck ins of flame to get rid of the condensate in the cylinder. When things are getting very close to running you should find that the engine will start to 'pop' out of the suck in hole. This means that the engine is up to temperature and the piston is sealing. 1 or 2 mm out on the flame position, either up/down or side to side will be enough to stop it running. I use glass fibre wick so the flame stays the same shape and doesn't alter, as would do if a cotton wick is used.
I eventually fixed my own design burners into position, so it is warm up, light wicks, turn over by hand a couple of times and away it goes.
Maybe this will help, maybe it won't, but it is worth trying just to see if it does. I spent ages finding the settings for mine. But both are exactly the same settings.
John
zeusrekning
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Welcome, and the elbow looks good.
Thanks,
I made the flywheel from barstock, First I made both bronze parts, and then the aluminium flywheel. The bronze cylinders aren't a press fit but the allu flywheel is heated so it "grew" and by cooling it down wit the cylinder in it, it will never get out
I made the flywheel from barstock, First I made both bronze parts, and then the aluminium flywheel. The bronze cylinders aren't a press fit but the allu flywheel is heated so it "grew" and by cooling it down wit the cylinder in it, it will never get out
