Mini Lathe

[mmatisoff]

Greetings,

I'm a clock repairer, and I'm about to purchase my first mini lathe. I've been reading what's available on the web re: the various mini lathes. After reading a comparison by the Little Machine Shop, I've decided to go with the Harbor Freight 7" x 10" lathe. Everything I've read and all the videos I've watch point to it being a pretty good machine.

Can you recommend any videos or books that can walk me through the process of learning to use a mini lathe? I live in Louisville, and I haven't met any machinists (yet) who can teach me the basics.

Thanks,

Marty

 

[dman]

i've seen that harbor freight lathe and it functions very much the same as larger lathes like a 9" south bend. so you can look for practically any lathe literature and much of it will apply.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Start by reading here:


http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f27/geting-started-model-engine-building-8701/

Download and read the Mini Lathe manual from the LMS site.

download and read Army TC 9-524

south bend How to run a lathe is a good starter book.

Download a copy of the Machineries handboook this is like the bible for Machinists.
A reference book.

there are several video links in the above thread.

the two main differences between the LMS machine and the HF is length of bed and motor size. the LMS is a much inproved version of the mini . but it is hard to see spending almost twice as much for "same machine" .

I started with a 7x 10 and they are OK but you do run out of Z axis very fast.
Tin

 

[Dunc1]

Welcome to "mini-lathe world." To get you started...

David Fenner wrote a series of articles for the british magazine Model Engineers'Workshop - MEW - (started with the Holiday 2007 issue thru Dec 2008 inclusive). Later issues also offer other projects. You can obtain a digital subscription to access all the articles from www.model-engineer.co.uk (usual disclaimers here).

At www.arceurotrade.co.uk you can find part 1 of the above series as a .PDF http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/reviews/C3_Articles.html

The same company offers a dismantling and reassembly guide - great for how to clean it, lube it & adjust it:
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3 Mini-Lathe Dismantling and Reassembly Guide.pdf

Most of the content of those MEW articles is in two David Fenner books published as part of the Workshop Practice Series - WPS - and available at Amazon (among others):
#43 - The Mini-Lathe, ISBN 978-185486-254-9
and
#48 - Mini-Lathe Tools & Projects, ISBN 978-185486-265-5

There is also another book by this author: Mini-Lathe for Home Machinists that is not part of the WPS. I have not read it but a preview is at:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1565236955/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Again, regarding Amazon, the usual disclaimers.

Also, be sure to have a look at www.mini-lathe.com

Some other titles of useful reading (not mini-lathe specific) include:
The Amateur's Lathe, L. H. Sparey
Ian Bradley's Beginner's Workshop and Amateur's Workshop
Various books in the Workshop Practice Series, including, but not limited to:
#3 - Screwcutting in the Lathe (imo the "bible" of threading)
#34 - Lathework, A Complete Course

As many other posts here will suggest books.google.com offers a treasure chest of old, out-of-copyright machining texts.

The old Popular Mechanics magazines
http://books.google.com/books?id=RdMDAAAAMBAJ
and Popular Science magazines
http://books.google.com/books?id=iigDAAAAMBAJ&source=gbs_summary_r&cad=0_0#all_issues_anchor
offer numerous articles about metal machine tool operation and projects.

As for videos Rudy Kouhoupt has a series on pretty much everything about machining. I have not viewed them. If you search for "mini-lathe" on YouTube you'll find lots of info. Similarly, "Tubal Cain" has a huge selection of machining videos (not mini-lathe specific). There is a video rental service - name escapes me - that rents out many of the Kouhoupt (and other authors') videos.

Yahoo Groups (groups.yahoo.com) offer several groups you can join including mlhorology. Simply type "mini-lathe" into the query space. Some groups require prior registry (free) to gain full access.

 

[mmatisoff]

Thanks for the info. I'm going through it now. One more question. How difficult is it to cut gears (for a clock) on a mini lathe? -- M

 

[sssfox]

Thanks for the info. I'm going through it now. One more question. How difficult is it to cut gears (for a clock) on a mini lathe? -- M

You can do it, but you need an attachment. I think it is easier on a mill, but you need an attachment for that, too.

To cut gears, you need one spindle to rotate the blank and one to rotate the cutter. The cutter spindle is powered and the gear spindle needs to have a way to set the tooth divisions. I cut the blank on my lathe and cut the gear on my mill using a rotary table to hold/move the blank.

Steve Fox

 

[Dunc1]

The Workshop Practice Series has a couple of relevant books:
Gears & Gear Cutting, Ivan Law, ISBN 0 85242 911 8

Making Clocks, Stan Bray, ISBN 1-85486-213-8

Amazon (usual disclaimers) & most booksellers likely stock them. The Law book on gears is another "bible". Can't comment directly on the clock book by Bray as I have not read it; however, the author has several other machining books to his credit (including some in the Workshop Practice Series)

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Thanks for the info. I'm going through it now. One more question. How difficult is it to cut gears (for a clock) on a mini lathe? -- M

Cutting gears for clocks on a mini-lathe is pretty easy. If you're on a limited budget like me and cannot afford both a mill and lathe to start you can have great success with a milling attachment.

I second Dunc1's recommendation... you should purchase Workshop Practice Series book No 33, Making Clocks by Stan Bray. The information within is current having been written in 2001. I have found this to be a very well written book that is easy to follow.

To quote Stan Bray, "Generally speaking the type of lathe found in the average model engineer's workshop is quite suitable.... Most are available with a bolt on mill/drill attachment that makes them ideal for cutting the teeth on wheels."

Further, Stan states that a mini-lathe with half the center height of an Myford 7 series lathe is fine and has the added benefit of being affordable and compact.

 

[bazmak]

Hi,just my tuppence.If you have not yet bought the lathe go for the 7x14.Very little size or weight increase but roomier to move when working
Also get the hi torque DC variable speed You will need the full speed range of 0 to 2500 rpm for clockmaking.Very useful to change speed
while working without having to stop and change belts etc. Bazmak

 

[Mitchg07261995]

i dont have the cash yet, thanks for the tips! ill keep them in mind

 

[Mitchg07261995]

whooops, sorry appears i am in the wrong thread never mind me

 

[mmatisoff]

I just assembled my Taig mini lathe. Being new (literally) to lathes, I discovered rather immediately that 3-jaw chuck is not a single piece but two pieces with three sliding jaws (though right now they don't slide very easily). What is the relationship of the back plate to the front plate (the one that has the jaws)? Thx.

 

[Wizard69]

Greetings,

I'm a clock repairer, and I'm about to purchase my first mini lathe.

In another post you indicated that you also have a Taig lathe. If that is so can we assume you will keep that for fine work.

I've been reading what's available on the web re: the various mini lathes. After reading a comparison by the Little Machine Shop, I've decided to go with the Harbor Freight 7" x 10" lathe. Everything I've read and all the videos I've watch point to it being a pretty good machine.

It may be a good machine but that is not why I would object to it. It is the "10" in the machines size that bothers me. The ten inches is the center distance which can quickly disappear once a chuck is mounted on the lathe spindle and a chuck is installed in the tailstock with a drill bit installed. This varies of course with the actual chucks used, the drill bit and part chucked. That can be a significant limitation for some types of work and is why some have already mentioned getting a longer version.

So I'm going to recommend a longer version too. It is pretty common for people to buy machines that are smaller than they should have purchased and then express frustrations with their purchases. Now clock making might not be real demanding of a lathe, so you will have to make your own decision there, but a larger lathe can be far more versatile.

Can you recommend any videos or books that can walk me through the process of learning to use a mini lathe? I live in Louisville, and I haven't met any machinists (yet) who can teach me the basics.

Thanks,

Marty

There have been many good suggestions already but I would suggest searching the net for Mini Lathe. Many excellent sites out there. I'd also recommend looking at Grizzly,s site for manuals, and LMS and MicroMark for alternatives. When it comes right down to it a lathe is a lathe so a variety of materials will get you up to speed. If you visit these sites you might get some insight into the center to center distance problem. Also search for clock making or makers to get a more specific idea about how these guys setup their shops.

Take note of the concept that these cheap Asian lathes are "kits". You should go into this with open eyes as the lathes will require tinkering. This isn't all bad as even industrial lathes require work from time to time. However sometimes you have to deal with deficiencies in design which may be a problem if you aren't up to the distraction.

 

[robcas631]

What made you descide on H/B? Just curious?

 

[mmatisoff]

I am a new lathe user. I recently purchased a Taig mini lathe. I assembled the lathe and motor. My question is in relation to the 3-jaw chuck. I removed the retainer clip and disconnected the scroll and the chuck body. It was difficult at first to the get the jaws to move, but after a while I was successful. My questions:

The directions for the chuck state that the retainer clip must be removed before the jaws can move. Also, I read that the scroll should "snap" into place once the jaws are moved as far inward as possible.

When I turn the scroll onto the chuck body it appears to lock in place, but I can't "unscrew" it. I have to gently worked a screw screwdriver between the plates and rock the scroll until it popped comes off. I tried reinstalling it several times with the same results.

What is the purpose of the scroll? Does it move the jaws in and out? Also, if I reinstall the retainer ring, won't it prevent the jaws from moving?

I am completely ignorant as to how the chuck works. -- Thanks, Marty

 

[Tin Falcon]

What is the purpose of the scroll? Does it move the jaws in and out?

yes

hm seems things are a bit tight. the three jaws need to be placed in sequence or they will either not be centered or not mesh with the scroll . the jaws should move as the scroll is spun . I have couple similar chuucs seems lik you should only have to remove the clip for occasional cleaning and lube. or may be change out jaws if it has two sets.
Tin