This isn't an engine build, but an add on for certain types of engines. Namely flame lickers and sterlings, which usually rely on a spirit burner for their heat source.
For over a couple of years now I have been wanting to make some mini gas burners, and I purchased the plans off Jerry Howell when he was still with us. Luckily, his family has taken over retailing Jerry's plans, and if you want to make one (or a few) of these, the plans for the burner can be purchased here.
I was talking to friend on Skype and mentioned about the burners, and he instantly piped in that he had seen an exhibitor at a show in the US running a couple of his engines with them, and when questioned about them, he said they were the best thing since sliced bread. My friend is now in the process of making one for himself after buying the jet from the above address.
I will just say that during this build, I will be taking a few pics of the plans, to explain a few things, but I will be covering up as many dimensions as I can. The cost of the plans is peanuts, and I would recommend buying them, as they also contain plans for a small pressure regulator and a safety shut off valve.
I am not able to do large articles like I once did, so this might stop and start a bit, as and when I feel I can do a little more.
So this is basically what they look like, About 3/8" diameter for the stack, and about 1.5" tall (without the base). I won't be making bases for mine as they will be incorporated into the engine itself. So I will have a stock of the burners, and make the fittings to fit when needed. The bases are only a screw on item anyway.
As you can see from the above pic, the main tube is a venturi, this is to speed up the gas coming from the jet to give an efficient burn at the top of the stack. On the notes that come with the plans, it is well explained.
The first thing I do when starting a project like this is to make up any special cutting bits that will be needed. So, as you can see, I have sketched up the d-bit forms that I will require.
I am not going into detail about d-bits as it has already been covered many times. But I will say that this sketch was modified on the run to include cutting the recess for the gauze at the top of the stack.
Five minutes on the offhand grinder with a bit of tool steel and a radius gauge had the form tool made for cutting the d-bit shape. This shot shows it doing it.
I then made the second d-bit, and then both were halved (plus a couple of thou dressing allowance) on the mill.
After hardening (I don't temper small tools such as this), and sharpening on an oil stone, this is what they look like.
A few of the stack blanks machined to length. These were spot drilled, and then relief drilled equally from each end for the d-bit guidance. This was to ensure that things stayed on the straight and narrow as the d-bits did their job.
This is the curved gas entry end.
And where the flame will be. You will notice that the d-bit has also formed the recess in the end for the stainless steel gauze diffuser to sit into. This bit needs a little more work doing on it before being finished, mainly the bore needs to have a little polishing done.
As I have already said, this has been in the pipeline for a long time now, but I am only just getting things together. These are some of the items I require for my assault on these burners. You might say that I have purchased too much, but in fact, if you can buy in bulk, it works out a lot cheaper. A good example are the o-rings. If bought individually they work out expensive. For the price of 20 from a normal supplier, I got 101 o-rings for a cheaper inclusive price from a main distributor.
I will be using 8BA thread for the jets, and those plated brass screws are what I will be working with. I have ordered some 2-56 ones from the US, but they haven't shown up yet.
On Jerry's site, it states that the jets are in limited supply, so if things turn out well with the drilling, I might be able to give some sort of backup if ever they become scarce.
The jets do require a very fine hole in them, no compromise here, the wrong sized hole, forget it. The burner just won't work right.
I thought I would show you what one of these drills looks like. On the left is a normal 1/16th drill bit and on the right a 1/32" one.
Methinks most people won't have the facilities to run drills of this size, so I would suggest buying the jets instead. For the amount of work and facilities that are required to make them yourself in small quantities it is a no brainer exercise.
I still don't know whether I can drill them with the equipment I have, only time will tell. So I might be going to buy ones for mine.
Now a bit of a saga that sometimes things just don't go right.
I made the curved d-bit out of a little leftover stub of silver steel, and the long tapered one out of a new bar. Both were hardened by the same process at the same time.
The little curved one cuts a dream, and all the stacks I am making were cut just fine. After cutting the first one with the tapered bit, then attempting to cut the second, the bit just twisted up. I put the bend in it, just to show that it is still soft. I had forgotten to do a file test for checking the hardness after heat treating (complacency) and I now suspect someone has slipped in a length of something that isn't water hardening silver steel when I ordered off the net. I will have to wait now until monday before I can go to my normal supplier to get something that I know will work.
For over a couple of years now I have been wanting to make some mini gas burners, and I purchased the plans off Jerry Howell when he was still with us. Luckily, his family has taken over retailing Jerry's plans, and if you want to make one (or a few) of these, the plans for the burner can be purchased here.
I was talking to friend on Skype and mentioned about the burners, and he instantly piped in that he had seen an exhibitor at a show in the US running a couple of his engines with them, and when questioned about them, he said they were the best thing since sliced bread. My friend is now in the process of making one for himself after buying the jet from the above address.
I will just say that during this build, I will be taking a few pics of the plans, to explain a few things, but I will be covering up as many dimensions as I can. The cost of the plans is peanuts, and I would recommend buying them, as they also contain plans for a small pressure regulator and a safety shut off valve.
I am not able to do large articles like I once did, so this might stop and start a bit, as and when I feel I can do a little more.
So this is basically what they look like, About 3/8" diameter for the stack, and about 1.5" tall (without the base). I won't be making bases for mine as they will be incorporated into the engine itself. So I will have a stock of the burners, and make the fittings to fit when needed. The bases are only a screw on item anyway.
As you can see from the above pic, the main tube is a venturi, this is to speed up the gas coming from the jet to give an efficient burn at the top of the stack. On the notes that come with the plans, it is well explained.
The first thing I do when starting a project like this is to make up any special cutting bits that will be needed. So, as you can see, I have sketched up the d-bit forms that I will require.
I am not going into detail about d-bits as it has already been covered many times. But I will say that this sketch was modified on the run to include cutting the recess for the gauze at the top of the stack.
Five minutes on the offhand grinder with a bit of tool steel and a radius gauge had the form tool made for cutting the d-bit shape. This shot shows it doing it.
I then made the second d-bit, and then both were halved (plus a couple of thou dressing allowance) on the mill.
After hardening (I don't temper small tools such as this), and sharpening on an oil stone, this is what they look like.
A few of the stack blanks machined to length. These were spot drilled, and then relief drilled equally from each end for the d-bit guidance. This was to ensure that things stayed on the straight and narrow as the d-bits did their job.
This is the curved gas entry end.
And where the flame will be. You will notice that the d-bit has also formed the recess in the end for the stainless steel gauze diffuser to sit into. This bit needs a little more work doing on it before being finished, mainly the bore needs to have a little polishing done.
As I have already said, this has been in the pipeline for a long time now, but I am only just getting things together. These are some of the items I require for my assault on these burners. You might say that I have purchased too much, but in fact, if you can buy in bulk, it works out a lot cheaper. A good example are the o-rings. If bought individually they work out expensive. For the price of 20 from a normal supplier, I got 101 o-rings for a cheaper inclusive price from a main distributor.
I will be using 8BA thread for the jets, and those plated brass screws are what I will be working with. I have ordered some 2-56 ones from the US, but they haven't shown up yet.
On Jerry's site, it states that the jets are in limited supply, so if things turn out well with the drilling, I might be able to give some sort of backup if ever they become scarce.
The jets do require a very fine hole in them, no compromise here, the wrong sized hole, forget it. The burner just won't work right.
I thought I would show you what one of these drills looks like. On the left is a normal 1/16th drill bit and on the right a 1/32" one.
Methinks most people won't have the facilities to run drills of this size, so I would suggest buying the jets instead. For the amount of work and facilities that are required to make them yourself in small quantities it is a no brainer exercise.
I still don't know whether I can drill them with the equipment I have, only time will tell. So I might be going to buy ones for mine.
Now a bit of a saga that sometimes things just don't go right.
I made the curved d-bit out of a little leftover stub of silver steel, and the long tapered one out of a new bar. Both were hardened by the same process at the same time.
The little curved one cuts a dream, and all the stacks I am making were cut just fine. After cutting the first one with the tapered bit, then attempting to cut the second, the bit just twisted up. I put the bend in it, just to show that it is still soft. I had forgotten to do a file test for checking the hardness after heat treating (complacency) and I now suspect someone has slipped in a length of something that isn't water hardening silver steel when I ordered off the net. I will have to wait now until monday before I can go to my normal supplier to get something that I know will work.
