Metric or imperial?

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bucketboy

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Hi fellas,

I am going to get myself a lathe for general fixing, bodging and turning lumps of expensive metal into worthless piles of swarf (I'm not as skilled as you lot :-[) I have pretty much decided on a Chinese jobbie, most likely a Warco VM 250 VS (unless any one knows of a reason not to) The thing is, I am not sure which version to get, metric or imperial ( I am quiet happy using either measurement ) I would like to thread cut both thread types including BSP what would be the best option and why?

Thanks

Bb
 
I'd go with Metric. I'm mid fifties and went through Metrification as a kid so like you I'm comfortable with both but find Metric far easier when dealing with small measurements. I generally use inches when doing woodwork though unless it's small stuff again!

Vic.
 
Your dime your choice. there has been a bit of discussion on metric vs imperial here before. Looks like a nice lathe either way. I think more plans are available in imperial measurement.
Tin
 
Tin,
get a metric with a imperial lead screw for threading.
Then metric or imperial threading is no problem. It is a cinch to go from inch and tread metric but go from metric and tread inch that is a pain.
Hilmar
 
Metric or Imperial is a bit like asking Pepsi or Coke?

What do you plan on doing on the lathe?
Do you prefer working with metric or Imperial?
Do you plan on making replacement parts for older items that are imperial or just make new stuff in metric?

I prefer metric as I was raised on that but find I fix a lot of old toy steam engines that are all made with imperial meaurements so I have to convert all the measurements to metric which gives me odd numbers to work with, but so far its not caused me any major headaches.

Not much help I know, but just think about what you will mainly do and in what measurements and go with that.
 
If you plan to cut BSP, you probably want an imperial leadscrew. You can use dies in a tailstock die holder to cut any thread under about 3/8" or 1omm, unless you need the thread absolutely square and concentric to the work (die-cut threads tend to wander a bit).

But, it's really up to you. tmuir sums it up: what do you plan to do? If you're going to mostly work in metric, having imperial graduations on the dials will be a constant headache. A metric leadscrew will make cutting any imperial-based threads a real pain though.
 
i dont know how that particular lathe is set up but mine is a 13x40 from grizzly so its just your common SIEG re-branded but anyway it is actually a metric machine with different dials and its kindof a PITA to use sometimes for big parts. for example one turn of the wheel moves the carage .56" one turn of the crossfeed wheel is .100 as usual and the compound is .125/turn. so when moving multiple turns it gets confusing. if your comfortable with metric id go with metric.
 
With that sized lathe, I don't know if it has the true conversion gear of 127, or a near enough one of 63.

I am like yourself, and can work in both standards, and I always had Imperial machines. Recently I bought new metric ones, and found no problems at all cutting perfect Metric and Imperial threads, but mine has that 127 gear in the train. On some of these smaller machines, they cannot be accomodated because of the physical size of the gear, so they so they put a 63 one in instead. This gives a close approximation of a metric thread, and would most probably be close enough for most needs, as long as the nut going onto the thread wasn't too long.

Whichever one you went for, I doubt if both types of threads could be cut in the same way, that is using the drop in dial. One or the other would need to have the half nuts engaged permanently while the thread was cut.

Seeing as you are from the UK, and your background in how you can work in both systems, I would suggest the metric version. In the long run, it should suit you better, and of course it would be easier to sell on, as the country is now almost all metric, with only the diehards hanging onto the Imperial system.

I was forced to go to a metric machine because they didn't do my one in Imperial over here, but I have suffered no where near as badly as I thought I would. After a couple of weeks, Imperial was forgotten about and I just got on with it. It does help a lot having DRO's though.

Blogs
 
If you can afford the extra then the 280VF with power cross feed is a bonus, I've had one for about 18mths and wouldn't want a lathe without this in the future.

I went for an imperial machine (8tpi lead screw) as most of the models I am likely to want to do are in imperial, the other handwheels are 0.100" per turn. I've only cut imperial threads with it so can't comment on the accuracy of the metric ones. Don't know what size BSP you intend to cut but 1/4 & 3/8 could be a problem as I think the 250 has a similar range to mine which does not include 19tpi and 1.33mm is not a metric pitch either.

Jason
 
Blogs

On that new lathe,what is the pitch of your lead screw?
Hilmar
 
Thanks guys, metric it is then, 3/8 BSP is 19 tpi, bit of a bummer the machine has not got that :-[ I'll sort something :-\ I did look at the 280 VF, its only £500 more, but the GH1224 is only another £600 although a better machine it would be hard for me to justify the extra expense to the missus ???


Might get one just to p*** her off ;D ;D

Bb
 
Bb, my take on this for what its worth...

Decide on what you want to make with your toys, whether metric or imperial, your choice..

If the VF fits the bill and costs an extra £500 then go for it, if the GH is another £600,can you afford it? (not being personal here) If you can then I'd be inclined to go for it myself...I dont see the point in buying a mchine that will just do the jobs for you and nothing more....

Many times I've seen folk ask 'Should I buy the mini lathe or go bigger? '

Simply put, you can machine small parts on a big(gish) machine ,but you cant machine big bits on a small one...

I hope your choice meets your expectations :)
 
Hilmar,

If I remember rightly 3mm.
These are the standard thread and feed charts

Blogs

charts1.JPG


charts2.JPG
 
Bb...

That Warco looks to be the same basic machine as the 10x22 sold by Grizzly. I've never used one but the reports from others with that machine seem to be favorable. Best of luck.
 
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