I was asked on another forum, how I do my layout work on the parts I machine. After I typed out my answer, I thought Hmmm---That could be a thread in itself---so here it is.
#1-Laying out material.--I do all my "layout" on the corner of the cheap wooden reference desk in my office. : : :(The same one that most stuff is setting on when I take pictures of it) I do 99% of my layout using my vernier calipers --Laying one jaw against a "finished" edge on stock and setting them to what dimension I want and dragging them along to scribe a line with the offside point. I don't use a digital height gauge---I have one but I find it rather large and awkward to use. On some lines I measure the length fron one end of a part with the Vernier caliper, make a mark same way as in step#1. then use a small machinists square and scriber to make the line. I have two or three sets of good quality compasses left over from my manual drafting days, and on them I have removed the lead from the one tip and replaced it with a second steel tip for drawing circles. I don't have a surface plate.
Aligning lines on parts in the mill---I have a cheap little bubble level about 5" long to maintain "'Horizontality" (I don't think thats a word) when clamping stuff in my vice. Sometimes I just use the inside bottom of the vice itself, or with parallels setting on it and make certain that the part is setting tightly against it.--Although that method isn't great, because the inside bottom of my vice is only about 2" wide, and things will tip. I always ensure that my vice is set "square" to the table, and depend a great deal on the vice to align things clamped in it squarely to the table.
I have an ancient bubble level/protractor square (that I don't even know the correct name for) to set up angles .
If any of the SOB's who owe me money on outstanding engineering invoices ever pay me, I may buy a simple height gauge for doing some of my layout with a surface plate.
I know that a lot of my stuff looks impressive.---Hell, it impresses me!!! But I have a dirty little secret!!! 95% of everything I do is visual, and so consequently only 5% of it is really critical mating surfaces, where finely held tolerances are really important. I try as hard as I can to hold extremely fine tolerances on that 5%. The rest of it is all "plus or minus" ---probably considerably beyond the tolerances allowed for in the drawings, but it LOOKS RIGHT. Just don't pick it up and put a micrometer on it.----Brian
#1-Laying out material.--I do all my "layout" on the corner of the cheap wooden reference desk in my office. : : :(The same one that most stuff is setting on when I take pictures of it) I do 99% of my layout using my vernier calipers --Laying one jaw against a "finished" edge on stock and setting them to what dimension I want and dragging them along to scribe a line with the offside point. I don't use a digital height gauge---I have one but I find it rather large and awkward to use. On some lines I measure the length fron one end of a part with the Vernier caliper, make a mark same way as in step#1. then use a small machinists square and scriber to make the line. I have two or three sets of good quality compasses left over from my manual drafting days, and on them I have removed the lead from the one tip and replaced it with a second steel tip for drawing circles. I don't have a surface plate.
Aligning lines on parts in the mill---I have a cheap little bubble level about 5" long to maintain "'Horizontality" (I don't think thats a word) when clamping stuff in my vice. Sometimes I just use the inside bottom of the vice itself, or with parallels setting on it and make certain that the part is setting tightly against it.--Although that method isn't great, because the inside bottom of my vice is only about 2" wide, and things will tip. I always ensure that my vice is set "square" to the table, and depend a great deal on the vice to align things clamped in it squarely to the table.
I have an ancient bubble level/protractor square (that I don't even know the correct name for) to set up angles .
If any of the SOB's who owe me money on outstanding engineering invoices ever pay me, I may buy a simple height gauge for doing some of my layout with a surface plate.
I know that a lot of my stuff looks impressive.---Hell, it impresses me!!! But I have a dirty little secret!!! 95% of everything I do is visual, and so consequently only 5% of it is really critical mating surfaces, where finely held tolerances are really important. I try as hard as I can to hold extremely fine tolerances on that 5%. The rest of it is all "plus or minus" ---probably considerably beyond the tolerances allowed for in the drawings, but it LOOKS RIGHT. Just don't pick it up and put a micrometer on it.----Brian