How to tram the 'Y' axis on a X2 (HM-10) mini mill

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tmuir

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I've finally just finished setting my mill up on its bench and started to tram it.
I am using a dial test indicator and can get the X axis within 0.04mm and know I can get it better but my problem is the Y axis is is out by about 0.6mm across the full travel.

How do I adjust the Y axis.

I've heard of people shimming these mills to get them more accurate but were is the best place to put these shims?

Thanks
 
Got it sorted.
Put Google to good use.
I need 0.35mm worth of shims to bring the Y axis to within 0.08mm (0.003 inches) and I've got the X to just slightly better than the Y.

Nearly ready to actually make some swarf after owning this mill for about 5 months.
 
But what about showing us "How" you did it?

No pictures! :eek:


You KNOW that we can't accept this situation as it is now. ;)



Come on guys, let's dog pile him,
Kermit :D
 
Tony,
How did you measure the Y axis? Indicating in a circle?
You might also want to check against a square, running the head up and down. This should be done along both axes.
The head on my X2 was not parallel with the column. This caused the tool to reposition itself when finding an edge with the head down low, then raising it to drill a hole. I was out about .040 after raising the head 6 inches.

I trammed my X2 Y axis with shims under the foot for the column. I've also tried shims in the big circle, with mixed results.

Good luck,
Kevin
 
Kermit said:
But what about showing us "How" you did it?

No pictures! :eek:


You KNOW that we can't accept this situation as it is now. ;)



Come on guys, let's dog pile him,
Kermit :D

:big:
I took photos but I won't post them here as I've had a couple of mistakes I made pointed out to me. No point in putting up photos showing the wrong way to do it.
I'm going to have another play with it tonight and take some more photos.
I shimmed under the big circle but didn't check the head was parralel against the column so will try and check that tonight.
I read somewhere about putting some drill stock in the head and set you DTI up on its stand on the bed on the drill stock, then raising the head to see if it moved to see if the head is out of parralel with the column. So will try this tonight.
I can also use this setup to see how acurate my ER32 collet set and chuck from HongKong is.

I was lucky my Chinese lathe out of the box was pretty good but I can see my mill needs a bit more work.
Then the question of 'Is my milling vice parrallel?' comes up.......

I've also noticed the torsion spring is useless with the head down low. It won't retain it at all on the last 20 to 30mm of travel at the bottom. Definately getting the airspring.
 
ksouers said:
...
The head on my X2 was not parallel with the column. ....

Kevin,

can you go into more detail about this? How did you find out and how did you fix it?

Tony,

What link did you find with google?

Eric
 
Brass_Machine said:
Tony,

What link did you find with google?

Eric

I Googled
'Tramming X2 mill y axis'
and came up with this on the CNC zone forum.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71289

Didn't get to 'play' in the workshop tonight as I forgot my wife had something on, so I had to stay in the house and 'babysit' the kids. I've got a 22 month old and a 4 year old
 
Eric,
All the sordid details are HERE.

I still haven't "fixed" the issue, but right now it's pretty darn close to spot on. Shortly after this I bought my knee mill.
Are you having problems?

Kevin
 
ksouers said:
Eric,
All the sordid details are HERE.

I still haven't "fixed" the issue, but right now it's pretty darn close to spot on. Shortly after this I bought my knee mill.
Are you having problems?

Kevin

Not that I know of Kevin... I do want to check before I begin my CNC conversion though. Thanks for the link.

Eric
 
My notes on this area are here:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillTipsTechniques.htm

If you want to understand how to make measurements on your mill to ensure its accuracy, Tormach's inspection document shows how each inspection is done on their mill:

http://www.tormach.com/document_library/TD31095_CertInspect.pdf

It's a useful resource to try the same measurements on your own mill in order to identify potential areas to focus on.

I've been through the process of shimming one mill, and will need to attack my second (CNC'd) mill before too long.

Just as with the lathe, there is a school that argues on about the importance of leveling and how to interpret it. If you search the Tormach forums on Yahoo, I believe the owner does not recommend shimming. He prefers to adjust with leveling inputs. In other words, he shims the base rather than the interface between column and base.

I don't know to what extent that works with smaller mills, or in the case of my mill, a mill whose internals are filled with epoxy granite to reduce flex.

If you rely on your quill, further shimming around the head may also be an issue to think about.

Cheers,

BW
 
Well I tried to further improve on my tramming but I was obviously was too tired and didn't improve it at all.

I think for now I will leave it as it is, have a play and make some stuff on the mill thats doen't have critical measurements on it just to get used to the mill and them maybe revisit tramming.

IO think my first project will be to make some more T nuts, something simple that hopefully I can't mess up too bad to build my confidence on the mill.
 
G'day Tony

My advice is to get on with using the mill. I take it that it is new.

I have watched endless discussions on other sites about setting up lathes and tramming mills.

Get on and use it until the backlash, off square or what ever bugs you gets too much. Uing the mill will bed things in and then you really will have some adjustments to make!

The least accurate part of even the cheap machines is the thing standing in front of it.

Regards
Ian
 
Yes its brand new, never used.
I let it run for about 40 minutes last night at different speeds to help 'run it in' last night whilst I was doing other things and hopefully over Easter I will find the time to make some T bolts with it. I've only got 4 at the moment and can see me wanting more. That and its an easy project to make some T bolts without any real high tolerances.
 

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