How much layout?

[raym 11]

I just noticed this thread so I'm delayed.
I also have a round piece of 3/8" cold rolled steel which is pointed on one end, and referred to as "Peter Pointer". Many times on my initial "set up" I will put "Peter Pointer" in the chuck and line it up with a centerpunched point on my layout and use that position as "0" when moving the mill tables to other positions.---Brian
[/quote]

My "peter pointer" is similar but with 1/4" pointer inserted against an adjustable spring load. I use it as a layout tool in the mill with the DRO when I want to visualize before ripping and tearing .

Ray M

 

[bentprop]

I only layout complicated parts,and hence I have a well stocked "spare parts"box :big:
I really should do it more,but most of the time,it all seems soooooooo simple.And that's when it comes back and bites ya.
Btw,I have never bought any "blue",I always use a broad tipped black felt pen.probably not as clear as blue,but good enough for "govmint"work.I wonder if I should get a blue felt pen instead. ;D

 

[ksouers]

I'm kind of hit-n-miss on layout. Usually I do it, but the times I haven't I've ended up making some kind of big mistake. Like Brian I've got a short, pointed piece of steel I use to help line up with before poking a hole with a drill.
And this brings up another use for 1-2-3 blocks. If I've got a line near the edge of a part, low to the table, I'll set the part on top of a 1-2-3 block and adjust my scriber accordingly to make the line.

Hans,
I've used black, blue, green and red markers. I think the black actually makes a thicker layer of ink than the others. They all work well but I think I prefer blue or red.

Kevin

 

[tel]

... or a can of black or dark blue spray paint from the $2 store is good as well, for larger areas. Dries almost instantly.

 

[Loose nut]

I layout everything but the simple jobs even with a DRO readout, it will give you a heads up when you have made a simple error like not adjusting for the diameter of the wiggler etc. and save a lot of rework.

Of course on the day you are sure that the layout is correct and the DRO is set perfectly and there is a discrepancy between the two you have an "O'crap" moment.

On steel use a copper sulfate solution, it leaves a nice copper finish that doesn't scrap off easy or burn from heat.

 

[BobWarfield]

I do layout a lot for several reasons.

First, it is a check against my doing something stupid, which I will tend to do if left unsupervised! :big:

Second, it is a natural consequence of my favorite measuring tools. I don't have much in the way of DRO's, just a quill DRO on the mill, and a special purpose DRO on my lathe compound. My favorite way to take a measurement is to use my surface plate and height gage. They're just so fast and easy I find myself going there every chance I get.

Last, some kinds of things just benefit from layout. For example, I need to layout to make sure I hit my center punch in the right spot. Or, a layout line helps me when I'm using the disc sander to round a part. Scribing the radius in place makes it more likely things come out even on all the corners.

Having the tools to do proper layout is relatively cheap as these things go. I guess my surface plate, Dychem layout die, and imported height gage are my second most used "measuring" instruments in the shop after the digital calipers. A micrometer would be #3.

Oddly, I mostly layout mill work. The lathe seems to be pretty automatic for me, and circles are more of a pain to layout. Though I still do some layout for lathe work.

Cheers,

BW

 

[John S]

I normally do the drawing after i have made the part, that way drawings and parts always match :big:

 

[tel]

;D in a similar fashion, I usually draw the bullseye after I've fired the shot!

 

[Maryak]

I normally do the drawing after i have made the part, that way drawings and parts always match :big:

I hope to start a similar procedure, (with minor mods in the form of an attempted drawing), today. ;D

Best Regards
Bob