Grizzly G0768 (8 x 16) or G9972Z (11 x 26) Lathes?

[Richard Hed]

BTW - Richard Hed, you should not use a 3-Jaw chuck for this but rather a 4-Jaw to securely hold it for turning. I don't have any issue with the pieces coming loose using a 4-Jaw chuck.

I considered using the 4 jaw for that but I had a large hole (2") in the center and the jaws of the 4 jaw, basically would get in the way of cutting the diameter, of course, I could cut half way then turn it over. But the job is done now, I just had to take it easy instead of being in such a rush. As the humps got cut down, I was able to increase the cutting depth. It's all finished now. Thing is, this metal comes from scrap from Genie in Moses Lake. The stuff is mirror finish and once past the bumps, nicely machined. Next comes the six holes for the D1-5 pins. I don't have a mill, only a drill press which I do not trust to make perpendicular holes. I'll study it for a while. In the mean time, I thimpfk I will start the pins.

 

[almega]

My apologies. I didn't know you had a center hole to use to hold the piece. Glad you finally did get it done.

 

[Richard Hed]

My apologies. I didn't know you had a center hole to use to hold the piece. Glad you finally did get it done.

It took a while but it's ready to be marked out now.

 

[almega]

Do you have a drill that can be mounted to your tool post? That would allow you to get perpendicular holes drilled into the face as you indicated for some D1-5 pins.

 

[Richard Hed]

No, I don't but I might be able to set the piece off in the 4jaw and use a tailstock drill. If I can't use the 4jaw, I'll check the faceplate. At slow speed, I might be able to do that. I only used a faceplate once about 40 years ago. As I remember, it workt pretty well but just haven't got much use for them. Oh, wait, I tried to use the faceplate last year on the Enco, but it wouldn't work for what I was trying.

 

[almega]

If you have a faceplate, then you could drill and tap some holes for clamps to hold the part in the positions you need it for drilling with a tailstock drill chuck. You would have to move it for each hole and you couldn't turn at high speed, but they would be perpendicular. Put a good center punch at each hole location and then a center finder in the drill chuck to locate the part for each hole. Slower than a mill but definitely doable. Good luck.

 

[Cddeshon]

I’ve had my G4003G for ten years now. It’s a good solid machine and I’ve use it a lot. I wish it had a slower low speed than 70 rpm,it can be problematic when turning large diameter (12 inch) flywheels but carbide tooling will allow it. You can even get the collet attachment for the G4003 and adapt it for the G4003G.

 

[Richard Hed]

I’ve had my G4003G for ten years now. It’s a good solid machine and I’ve use it a lot. I wish it had a slower low speed than 70 rpm,it can be problematic when turning large diameter (12 inch) flywheels but carbide tooling will allow it. You can even get the collet attachment for the G4003 and adapt it for the G4003G.

Where do you live? 70 rpm is half what I had on the crappy Enco and I can cut most threads at that speed. But if I have to cut some 12" stuff, you are right, it might be too much. I really would like to have something as slow as 45rpm.

 

[Cddeshon]

Raleigh, north carolina

 

[Richard Hed]

Raleigh, north carolina

From here in the West, we only know of Bellingham and Missouri. But I heard that there are more Grizzes in the wild east. Is that true? In your icon, I notice you have three nice large models. Do you have some close up photos? Do you have photos of themk running? What kind of models are they?

 

[goldstar31]

Classically, a faceplate was the ONLY method which an object could be swung for machining.
The only limitation is the diameter of the object which was why many lathes had a cut out. My 7" Myford will swing a 10 inch circle. So I have Three faceplates and Two catch plates. Toget over the nuisance of a 'big hole' is remedied by things like Keats plates or even a cover plate.

Regarding the ^ hole problem without a division plate is using a 3 jaw chuck held rigid with a block of metal between a jaw and the lathe bed or saddle. The origin of such things is far older than me.
The question of using or making 'pins' is again quite basic. The Brits use higher carbon steel unhardened and we call it 'silver steel' It is already ground which makes things somewhat easier. Is the Equivalent 'drill rod'?
However I convert cheap stainless studding with square bits of mild steel and silver solder.
With cheap MS plate as an intermediary, snd tapped with holes, I can interchange tooling from my Myford to my Sieg C4. It's basic, it's easy--- and it works. Again, I standardise spindles if I can to 1" except someone has now ruined things by 25MM ER stuff.
Retaining 'my moonbeams from a lesser lunacy, I bought 30 kilos os scrap mild steel offcuts and can happily throw away rough jigs made for 'one offs'
I hope that this helps

Norman

 

[L98fiero]

I recommend it, -- so far -- I have only had it for two months. Give me a year and see if I still thimpfk it is nice. Right now I have a 1" piece of steel that I cut out of a larger piece with band saw. it was square, had to cut the corners off making 8 high spots. It is a bear to cut down, keeps coming out of the 3Jaw as I cut it down to a diameter about 6". I tried .030 (diameter not radial) which was too much for this horrible interrupted cut. Then I tried .020--still too much so now .010. It's still a bear but at least it itsn't slipping out of the chuck. It's going to take at least half a day I thimpfk. I needed a rest so here I am replying.

Use a 4-jaw and a center

 

[ajoeiam]

I recommend it, -- so far -- I have only had it for two months. Give me a year and see if I still thimpfk it is nice. Right now I have a 1" piece of steel that I cut out of a larger piece with band saw. it was square, had to cut the corners off making 8 high spots. It is a bear to cut down, keeps coming out of the 3Jaw as I cut it down to a diameter about 6". I tried .030 (diameter not radial) which was too much for this horrible interrupted cut. Then I tried .020--still too much so now .010. It's still a bear but at least it itsn't slipping out of the chuck. It's going to take at least half a day I thimpfk. I needed a rest so here I am replying.

Why not clamp the piece and cut off the corners using a band saw?
Then finish the job using the lathe.

 

[Richard Hed]

Why not clamp the piece and cut off the corners using a band saw?
Then finish the job using the lathe.

That's what I did. I bored a 2" hole to use the 3 jaw, even so, the 8 high spots were very rough. I was taking too much to start with, .030 and I lost the hold twice, then I changed to .020 and lost it once. So I changed to .010 and it workt fine, except extremely slowly for an impatient man like me. I had to smoke a cigarette.

L98: couldn't comfortably use a 4jaw, as the jaws would be in the way unless I did half at a time then flipped it. After I cut the hole (2"), I didn't have a center that would hold it. I sure wanted to try that. I have an old 90deg center that is about 6" across from an old 1918 South B. that I used to have but it is very beat up and, quite frankly, I wouldn't want to damage my new lathe trying it.

 

[Steamchick]

All this discussion... Seems to hold something in a 4-jaw isn't as straightforward as I have always found... But years ago, I wanted to hold a job that was bigger than the 4-jaw, so I made 4 strong angle brackets and used appropriate bolts onto a face-plate with just 1/2" whit screws to act as jaws. But that was in the "glorious days past" when Nostalgia was something untried. To get the correct cutting speed I used the back-gear (4: 1 x 2 = 16:1)... The lathe was a 2" swing - but with removable piece of bed so I could use an 8" diameter faceplate to hold the 6" diameter casting for the flywheel... The lathe dated somewhere back in the 1920s.. all the threads were RH because they had not come up with the idea of LH threads for lead screws and cross feed screws to make things suit a "right-handed brain"... I have never seen that since, but I don't go looking for Antique lathes. The motor was only 1/4 HP. But with the back-gear you could easily cut threads as the back-gear gave you "Dead-slow" (less than 60rpm from a 1500rpm motor with all the belt pulley reductions and back-gear) and "Bags" of torque - as gears do and Variable Speed doesn't. But I suppose too complicated or expensive for today's little lathes, that just have an On-Off switch and Variable Speed.
Oh, and I had to make a tool extension to come back towards me in order to skim the outside of the flywheel, because the cross travel didn't come far enough out!
Nostalgia ain't what it used to be!
I then upgraded to a 1930s lathe before having a Myford ML3: stopped making those in the 1960s because the ML7 was much more profitable. = They could make the 1/2 sized lathe for 1/2 the cost. (According to the Myford rep. who could supply spares for me.). But even that one had a back-gear (9:1?). But it has a "huge" 1/3rd HP motor - and clutch - from an industrial sewing machine.
K2

 

[Cddeshon]

From here in the West, we only know of Bellingham and Missouri. But I heard that there are more Grizzes in the wild east. Is that true? In your icon, I notice you have three nice large models. Do you have some close up photos? Do you have photos of themk running? What kind of models are they?

Hi Richard

in order not to carry this thread off track I have answered your question regarding the models in my avatar by posting a new thread in the ‘engines’ section titled ‘three Otto Langen models’.

 

[awake]

Hi Richard

in order not to carry this thread off track I have answered your question regarding the models in my avatar by posting a new thread in the ‘engines’ section titled ‘three Otto Langen models’.

And they are works of art! Craig, welcome to HMEM!