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Cedge

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Being sort of between projects means I have time to try some of the strange ideas that come to me when I'm too busy with a build to stop. This little experiment was one such idea that kept bobbing to the top of the heap, so last evening I decided to give it free reign.

I'm about to begin Jerry Howells, "Miser" but want to change the look so that it's not like every other Miser one sees. Since the changes one can make are basically cosmetic and limited to areas like the column, the connecting rod and the smaller cylinders associated with the pistons.... Those are the places I'm looking to alter a bit.

Here is the result of my first attempt at a spiral fluted section which will likely become part of the main column. It consists of 10 pieces of .091 brass rod I had laying about. once twisted they were then soldered to make it all nice and rigid. The ends are simply something whipped out to give the column appearance.

Steve

column-test.jpg
 
As always I looked at the picture before reading the text and I was really impressed and thought you had mastered the dark are of ornamental turning and made a barley twist post and was about to ask for a detailed description on how you did it.

Then I read the text and was disappointed you hadn't mastered the dark art, but it still looks great.

Looking forward to your next build as they are always something very special.
 
That looks great Steve. Good to have more tips/techniques on cosmetic work.

How did you twist the brass? Only soldered at the tips? Is there a center solid or tube?
 
Tony....
Sorry to disappoint you... but I'm not up to the dark arts just yet....(grin) Just a bit of out of the box thinking that seems to have gone right.

Zee....
I'm still tinkering with the jig and will share it when I've gotten a bug or two out of the thing. Basically it's two end pieces with enough holes to accept the brass rods and a center rod of whatever size so that the rods can't completely collapse during the twisting part. I'm working on a clamp that should make things work even better.

The rods are soldered along the whole length. I originally thought the ends would be all
I would solder, but the twist made sweating the solder across the whole length so easy I had to do it. The spiral is hollow so I can run threaded rod or whatever through it.

Harder to explain than to show... bear with me and I'll get things sorted out and do some show and tell.

Steve
 
Eagerly awaiting the next installment Steve - I think I can use that idea on the next but one project.
 
very nice idea ,looks great , i will have to remember that for future project :bow:

regards Rob
 
Steve,

Very talented and unique column. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
All well and good, BUT I want to know what really happened.
 
Chuck....
My box was broken a long time ago.... :noidea: . I certainly try not to wind up with a result that is not exactly like every other engine one sees. The idea of having something unique and of my own design has always intrigued me. The short answer to your question..... not often.... *bang*

Here is a concept rendering of the basic tool idea. I've already proven the concept works and all that remains is the refining of the tool.

barley.jpg



The "far" hex piece is free to turn while the forward hex is anchored. By turning the far hex, the wires collapse onto the center mandrel. This is free floating and removable allowing for different diameters to be used. It can also be chucked on both ends to assure alignment. The design of the tool allows use on the lathe, mill or even a vice and serves double duty as a soldering jig. The bolt located on the far end is used to secure the twist once it is made.

Small items of note are the bushings used with the center mandrel. These allow for changing sizes while still retaining the centerline placement. The Hex pieces are also removable so that additional blanks with higher or lesser wire counts with different radii can be easily inserted should the need arise. Dimensions are pretty much non-critical and the tool can be made to any length, as required for the end result you need.

The 3d rendering will have to do for the time being, as I'm having a bit of a problem with my back and am not much enjoying standing in front of the machines right now.

Steve



 
That's so cool - I'm gonna steal it. ;D

Expect to see something similiar on a future build of mine.


Thank you for this idea Steve,
Kermit
 
Thanks guys.. its just another toy to play with.

Kermit
Now when I see a wire spiral on someone's machine, I'll immediately know I had some small hand in it's creation. Not too bad for a mere mortal....eh?

Steve
 
Steve--I have used that method when building handles for fireplace tools, The rods which got bent into a spiral were 1/8" diameter mild steel rods welded into a drilled hub at each end. It does give a very nice effect.---Brian
 
Brian
Did you just confirm one of my thoughts? I'm suspecting that with a slight inward pressure on the floating hex, I can flex things enough to get a spiral that opens outward into, for lack of a better word.... a convex.

Steve
 
To get an outward flex, the holes have to be drilled in the hubs at a very slight angle so that when the rods are inserted in the holes they have a bit of "outward" stress on them before you start to do the spiral. and you must be able to apply pressure parallel to the centerline as you twist them.
 
Cedge said:
The 3d rendering will have to do for the time being, as I'm having a bit of a problem with my back and am not much enjoying standing in front of the machines right now.

Steve

Very ingenious, Steve.

As a fellow back sufferer, I can sympathise with you. Hope it gets better soon. If it is lower lumbar region, try rolling up a towel and putting it in the small of your back when you lay down.

Dave
The Emerald Isle
 

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