Diagonal paddle engine

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imation

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Hi All
It is with a great deal of pleasure that I can report the completion of the Diagonal paddle engine.
This engine (like most) had it's own particular tricky bits, final assembly was a bit tricky but it
all came together eventually. The first run was a bit sporadic but as problems were addressed as
they cropped up (sciezed bearing, tight in general), she now ticks over at a realistic slow speed.
Unfortunately even at it's slowest speed the action of the paddle feathering mechanism still can't
be seen.
I will have a break for a couple of weeks as I wait for the next project to arrive from the UK. Today
I ordered the castings etc for the McOnie Oscillating engine, if anyone has built one I would like
to know what I am in for.
Regards
Mike.

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That looks very nice indeed.

To slow things right down so you can see the floats feathering, try to restrict the exhaust line, not the input pressure, it will work on some engines, but not all. The only way to find out is to try it.

Just put a bit of tubing on each exhaust and squeeze between your fingers while it is running, not too fast, if it slows down, you are onto a winner.

John
 
What A lovely Job Mike,you have given me the inspiration to finish mine and decide to make the paddle wheels,they add the finishing touch.
Thank you.
I'm still waiting for cast iron I ordered about 1 month ago,have to get stroppy.
Don
 
What a beauty!
That motion picture is a bit too much stationary, what about a video?

Marcello


[Bogs]
Thank You for the slowing-down tip.
 
Damn!
I knew I shouldn't have looked.
Now I'm dreaming of building one.
seriously though, a beautiful looking engine
 
Beautiful piece Mike - something to be very proud of!
An inspiration to all of us.
Charlie
 


Very nicely made Mike.

It looks great!
 
A very nice engine, lots of parts that look very well made. Do the paddles actually chnge position through the rotation of the wheel?
 
Fantastic Job, :bow: :bow:

Feathering paddles are the ants pants and at the top of the paddle wheelers art. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob
 
Hi Guys
Thanks for all the positive comments, very pleasing coming from a
lot of talented people, yes the paddle wheels do feather and they
were a pain to make (under all those hex bolts is a very small bush).
I can't wait for the next projects castings to arrive, I get very bored
and under the missus feet if I am not making swarf, love retirement.
Thanks again
Mike.
 
Hi,
congratulations for the beautiful model you did. Feathering paddle wheels are really so fascinating to watch.
just a point however, it seems that you didnt do the reversing screw as per the ETW drawings ie 3/8 dia, 1/8 pitch, 2 starts square thread and obviously the nut to suit!
Why publish so sophisticated drawings details that nobody (usually) will follow?

Zephyrin

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Zephyrin,

In the early days of modern model engineering, at the time of Westbury, making threads and nuts such as this was a normal everyday occurance, and if it was shown on a drawing, it was done to that.

As time went on, and we now reach modern day, most of the art of how to do it has been lost, except to the likes of traction engine and loco builders, who still carry on the tradition. If you read a lot of machining books from that era and before, you will find many references on how to accomplish it.

I have made a few square, acme and buttress threads and even fewer multi start ones, but if pushed, I reckon I could still pick up the technique again. It isn't difficult, just different to what we normally do when single point threading.

The problem nowadays is that most people just want to buy taps and dies to do the job.

It is easier.


John
 

I ordered the castings etc for the McOnie Oscillating engine, if anyone has built one I would like
to know what I am in for.


Hi Mike, Yes I have one on the go but first let me congratulate you on your excellent workmanship, that's a fine model you have created.

The Mc Onie is a great looking engine and I found the quality of the castings to be superb if a little soft. There are however several mistakes on the drawings which you should be aware of. It's been a while since I worked on mine but have the drawings annotated so can help you there if you need.

I decided to build up the crank rather than use the kit provided blank - if you decide to use the kit one I have a spare you can have if things go awry :)

The drawings are not clear as to how the bearings should be attached to the main frames and I don't believe this was dealt with in the articles in Model Engineer either - I did not have these at the time but saw them later. I have some pics of the shaft build up but can always take some of any areas if you would like me to.

Having built your diagonal so well you shouldn't have any real problems, just study the drawings carefully before you start - that said I'm more than happy to help in any way I can if you want, either on here or by PM

Regards for now - Ramon
 
John, I agree with you, fully.
I like very much those ETW designs, with ornated pillars and bellied rods. I did the Vulcan and I still have it, and also the paddle wheels engine. and this thread reminds me my attempts to make these parts, there are about 40 years ago, I even did a tap to cut the nut, but 2 starts, the bar was too high for my skills, I was disapointed I sold this engine with a lever instead of this lovely reversing screw. I'm sure I could have done it now, I have learned a lot since...

Zephyrin
 
That is one very nice engine. There is something lost in the newer designs that the older ones show very well. I haven't done multi start threads on a manual machine, but used to love watching a CNC lathe do them, once had to do an eight start thread wish I could have filmed it being done.
Regards,
Gerald.
 
nice job mike , nice attention to detail. like to see it run. jonesie
 

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