crucibles for iron casting

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well there is a couple things I can make out of Al.I have a couple questions. As long as it's temporary, can I use charcoal brickettes in an old weber? Also, the two things I want to make are my adapter plate and crank handle for my milling attachment. The plate will be 1" thick. Would recycled can metal be OK for this? I have nothing against aluminum but I was looking at the long run.
 
Cans are horrible to cast with. Try finding some good cast aluminum stuff, you'll have much better results. A charcoal furnace works just fine with forced draft but to me they are messy and a pita. Build yourself a reil burner, you can build one in 20 minutes and be running on nice clean propane. Plus its good for when you want to go for iron as well, just add air.
 
Through two contacts on CL I scored a BBQ grill sized propane tank. And two that are really tall and one a bit shorter. The two huge ones have triangular knobs. All for free.
Question about aluminum. Is can metal just bad structurally or can it be used to make ornamental stuff or is it bad to work with period?
 
Forgot photos.

ForumRunner_20121228_121643.jpg
 
Hi kd!
Regarding using aluminum cans for casting. The problem is that aluminum cans are very close to being pure aluminum, and the properties of pure aluminum are pretty poor, such as low stength, and poor machinability ( kinda like trying to machine bubble gum). When casting pure aluminum, you have a huge amount of shrinkage so you need large risers, the aluminum tends to "hot tear" as it goes from liquid to solid, and it is not very fluid. Adding silicon to aluminum drastically reduces all of the afore mentioned problems. Other alloying agents such as copper, zinc, magnesium, and iron are all added to aluminum to tweak its properties in some way.
Aonemarine's advice is spot on. Go find yourself something that was sand cast in aluminum, and melt it down. Chances are the alloy is pretty close to Alloy A-356 which is 7% silicon, .2% iron, and .3% magnesium, and has waaaaaaay better properties than pure Al. My personal fav is aluminum intake manifolds off of 4 or 6 cyl inline engines (v-6 or v-8 manifolds are pretty tough to break up unless you heat them first). They are readily available, easy to smash up with a sledge or slice into pieces with a band saw, and in my experiance give fantastic results. Nice score on the propane tanks by the way!
Cheers!
Chris
 
If all you have is cans then you might as well make use of them, I would advoid trying a thick casting with them as shrinkage is extreme. The other thing you will run into is alot of dross when you melt them, melt a crucible full of cans, skim dross, crucible now half full....and thats no exaggeration. Use what you have for now, but keep your eyes open for the "good stuff".
Nice score on the propane tanks! they come in handy for all kinds of things... oh yea, now you have some brass to melt from the valves in them.
 
If all you have is cans then you might as well make use of them, I would advoid trying a thick casting with them as shrinkage is extreme. The other thing you will run into is alot of dross when you melt them, melt a crucible full of cans, skim dross, crucible now half full....and thats no exaggeration. Use what you have for now, but keep your eyes open for the "good stuff".
Nice score on the propane tanks! they come in handy for all kinds of things... oh yea, now you have some brass to melt from the valves in them.

After i melt them down into ingots to remove dross, what would i add in to make it a stronger alloy?
 
That's a difficult question to answer without knowing the exact alloy you have to begin with, I would really have to look into it a bit before making a recommendation. Copper and silicon are the first things that come to mind though.
 
Waaaayyyyyy back in the day when I was in high school, I did quite a bit of aluminum casting. I only needed to do a couple of pieces, but I really liked it, so helped out some of the other guys that were having trouble. As a result, I rammed up quite a few molds (or instructed others) and oversaw the melting and pouring of quite a bit of AL. Here is what we would do:
Start out with some pop cans, typically a #6 bulge crucible about half full of crushed cans, then add some extruded aluminum from old storm doors, etc. While this is starting to melt, we'd have a couple pieces of broken cast aluminum heating up on the top of the furnace lid. Once the metal in the crucible started to melt, we would add some preheated cast aluminum, and we would add it very slowly. Once it melted, we would skim off the dross, add more cast AL if necessary to fill the crucible. Once the full pot was ready to go, skim once more, then pour into ingot molds.

Ingots would get tested for 'gumminess' by drilling a test hole in the ingot. If it was deemed as material that would machine reasonably well, a sharpie was used to place a mark on the ingot. Ingots with marks were then saved for casting projects that would require machining later, such as pulleys for belt sanders. Unmarked ingots were used for casting simpler items like ash trays, hood ornaments, etc. that required little if any machining. It was a simple and rather inaccurate system, but it gave students the chance to pour a number of times by making ingots, and also gave some idea of the differences in alloys. As someone mentioned earlier, using more good cast aluminum in a pour usually resulted in the best ingots.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top