This is a topic that gets discussed fairly often... how to blacken or blue steel. Usually seen on firearms, but also frequently seen on steel tooling, such as AXA toolholders and such. When the metal is shiny, the finish can be beautiful. It also does protect a bit, at least better than raw carbon steel. Many of us, knowing that the correct hot, caustic blue is a bit of a chore, are satisfied with the smelly (and frankly, lame) wipe-on blues.
I finally had a reason to give this process a shot. I had made a propeller hub from steel, and I wanted the blue for both contrast and protection. While I was at it, I figured I'd blacken some nicer tooling pieces I'd made in the last year.
The part of interest is upper right... 12L14 steel.
This process I am going to describe is really practical for small parts/pieces. To blacken large things requires a LOT of chemicals and a LOT of heat, but anything that'll fit into a liter pyrex container can be blackened easily in a home shop, with little fuss. And the results are both excellent, and easy to do!
What you'll need:
Simple Green (or some other strong aqueous cleaner-degreaser)
lye (Sodium hydroxide; "Red Devil" brand lye works, sold as a drain opener. Be sure it is white and pure, no funky colored crystals.)
potassium nitrate ("Stump Remover" in the U.S., sold at hardware stores)
distilled water
container
heat source
thermometer that can read up to 300 f./150 C.
Prepare the blue salts. The mixture is (by WEIGHT) 2 parts lye, 2 parts water, 1 part potassium nitrate. Fill a beaker or any suitable container (NOT aluminum) with 500ml water, 500 grams. Weigh out 500 grams lye. Slowly add this to the water; it'll get very hot.
Obligatory warning: lye will melt flesh and/or blind you. Goggles, gloves, etc. This is a process for "big boys."
Turn on the heat... bring the solution up to maybe 130 C. The boiling temp is raised due to the lye. Slowly add 250 grams potassium nitrate. There is no noticeable reaction. Stir with a glass rod to dissolve.
In the mean-time, you can prep your parts. Wipe them down with acetone or similar. Then, what I did (and it seemed to work well) was put them in a pot, added pure Simple Green, and heated this to a near boil. Let them soak for 15 to 30 minutes at least. Grease and oil will be stripped. This is VERY important... surface prep and degreasing is 90% of the battle.
When the blue salts reach 275 F / 135 C, they are ready.
The parts should already be hung on stainless wire. Remove them from the degreaser, and dip/swirl in clean, distilled water. Shake excess water off. Then, hang them in the hot blue pot.
I finally had a reason to give this process a shot. I had made a propeller hub from steel, and I wanted the blue for both contrast and protection. While I was at it, I figured I'd blacken some nicer tooling pieces I'd made in the last year.
The part of interest is upper right... 12L14 steel.
This process I am going to describe is really practical for small parts/pieces. To blacken large things requires a LOT of chemicals and a LOT of heat, but anything that'll fit into a liter pyrex container can be blackened easily in a home shop, with little fuss. And the results are both excellent, and easy to do!
What you'll need:
Simple Green (or some other strong aqueous cleaner-degreaser)
lye (Sodium hydroxide; "Red Devil" brand lye works, sold as a drain opener. Be sure it is white and pure, no funky colored crystals.)
potassium nitrate ("Stump Remover" in the U.S., sold at hardware stores)
distilled water
container
heat source
thermometer that can read up to 300 f./150 C.
Prepare the blue salts. The mixture is (by WEIGHT) 2 parts lye, 2 parts water, 1 part potassium nitrate. Fill a beaker or any suitable container (NOT aluminum) with 500ml water, 500 grams. Weigh out 500 grams lye. Slowly add this to the water; it'll get very hot.
Obligatory warning: lye will melt flesh and/or blind you. Goggles, gloves, etc. This is a process for "big boys."
Turn on the heat... bring the solution up to maybe 130 C. The boiling temp is raised due to the lye. Slowly add 250 grams potassium nitrate. There is no noticeable reaction. Stir with a glass rod to dissolve.
In the mean-time, you can prep your parts. Wipe them down with acetone or similar. Then, what I did (and it seemed to work well) was put them in a pot, added pure Simple Green, and heated this to a near boil. Let them soak for 15 to 30 minutes at least. Grease and oil will be stripped. This is VERY important... surface prep and degreasing is 90% of the battle.
When the blue salts reach 275 F / 135 C, they are ready.
The parts should already be hung on stainless wire. Remove them from the degreaser, and dip/swirl in clean, distilled water. Shake excess water off. Then, hang them in the hot blue pot.