Bazmak-Making the acute tool sharpening system

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Drilling holes in a stone wheel is forboden so like your idea,however
my diamond wheel is mounted on a plastic/aluminium wheel so drilling
the wheel itself makes sense
 
Found my *cough* Hi-Tek balance device - Long as the wheel was off- had to add a little weight . .

DSCF0127_zpsmr5j2dhm.jpg
 
Some shops consider diamond wheel for HSS bad taste.

I learned toolgrinding from a guy who spent his entire carreer grinding tools in a woodworking factory . You know , the kind of guy with a grey dust coat , a butt of cigarette in his mouth , and a cup of coffee on the corner of the bench .

He thought me how to sharpen carbide sawblades , drill bits , endmills , wood cutters , knives .... And it all seemed so friggin easy when he demonstrated it :)

Back on topic :
This man told me never to use diamond wheels for carbon steel or hss .
Supposedly the carbon in the steel would do something to the diamond , wich is also carbon , and destroy it in no time .
I've always listened to his advice and use the diamond wheels exclusivly for carbide .

btw he also said never to breathe the carbide/diamond grinding dust .
Would be very dangerous . Don't know if it's true or not , but once again I carefully listened to his advice . Extraction unit ON , alway's !

Pat
 
All very sound advice especially to someone who is grinding 8 hrs a day
5 days week for many years.However the advise can be tempered down
for the amount of grinding some of us do.So I will keep playing about
with the small amount I do.At the age of 70 I am not too worried about
developing diamondtosis.One point I would like to hear comments on
is the comment about the carbon in HSS destroying the diamond carbon
Anyone with technical knowledge please comment.If it is correct then what
sort of time scale ??.If its hrs then I am stuffed,if its years then not to worry
 
Baz,
I'm not going into a long discourse of all our yesterdays.

Yesterday, I was watching 'How it's made' a Canadian program and watched a firm making end mills using diamond cutters and cooled with 'liquid'. I assume something water based. The machines were making HSS tools and carbides

Again, going back, I recall using a diamond tool grinder lubricated with oil. I was a 'manure' student at the local college.

Regards

Norm
 
Hi Norman,dont think I will worry too much.Just spent a few hrs in the shed
but its warming up for xmas,hi 90s last few days.Couple more parcels from china.I now have 75,100 and 125mm dia diamond cup wheels and the 150x25
std wheel so made alum adaptors for all 3 and balanced the 150dia to a reasonable std.The grinder has a LH thread and RH on the other side which makes it difficult to tighten up the wheels,so first job was to set up in the mill
and machine a couple of flats each side for a spanner.Works a treat
After playing about with locations and heights etc on a board I decided to
mount the main wheel on the RH side and the 125 cup wheel to the LH
I made and fitted a baseplt for mounting the table on and a grinder mounting table from scrap 70mm rhs and 25x3 angle.Starting to look good but things will slow over Xmas,and a merry one to you all
 
Hi Baz

My Christmas social events calendar( ?) has ground activities in the shed to a frightening halt.
Last year, it went into orbit with an invite to Hong Kong and onto Fiji.
Who knows what Monday will bring from my Chinese connections this time. Oz is only 17 hours away now.

Meantime, I'm enjoying your posts. So I wish you and the rest of the fora, my sincerest good wishes for the Christ's Mass and for a constructive New Year

Norm
 
Hey Baz
Any chance you can give me a link for where you have got the diamond wheels from. I have a universal cutter grinder. I can get limited wheels from Hare and Forbes but a better assortment and perhaps better prices might be handy.
TIA

Cheers
Tom R
 
Hi Tom,just search diamond cup wheel for grinding.They are very cheap on Ebay from china ave $15 each with free postage.I had to pay $80 for
the 6"x1" wheel.Only took 7 days
 
Well Xmas and new year over,family gone home and after a few days of 40o c
today I managed a couple of hours in the shed.I have ordered lots of smaller
cheaper items from China which have started to arrive.
The ER32 collets are ok for the larger drills and end mills but a bit larger for the smaller stuff.I purchased a 12 piece set of ER16 collets and a couple of nuts for $30 and have on order a ER16 collet chuck and nut with 16dia x 100mm lg spindle for $15.This can be used in the mill gripped in the
R8 x 16mm collet which will give me more reach/clearance for small mills/drills
I also made a 40mm sq /Er16 collet block to use in the acute system
I made it 40mm sq for now to fit the existing housing.Later if need be I machine it down to suit to the pantograph
 
Photos for Pat of the diamond cup wheels ave $15 each and adequate for the job.Im still playing with the the overall setup regards heights and locations of the unit and table prior to making a dedicated stand.At the moment I am concentrating
on drill sharpening and I am not happy with the current setup
The 40mm collet blocks raises the drill too high above the table and although the current setup may work well for end mills its too involved for simple drill sharpening.Will go back to the basic table and redesign a simple fixture for drills.The 40mm sq collet block is too large for the smaller drills so will reduce size with a more simple fixture at nom 30o (near enough to give me 118/120o
angle
 
Mate how did you take a pic tomorrow?

reckon you could give me a pic of tomorrows lotto numbers?

Tom R
 
Never noticed that,depends on which side of the international date line you live



I've just sold a date palm. My late wife planted it in the septic tank. :fan: It seemed quite happy. We were getting our own back

:toilet:

life's a lottery, I suppose

N
 
On a more serious note, I'm wondering about this ER16 thing and doing small drills. To date( not that again), I never have been able to recover small drills. I'm a bit confused( normal for me) about the grit size.

I've been using the CBN wheel - with 160 grit and no way am I getting satisfactory results below- say 6mm.

Comments will be appreciated

Norm
 
I would use a much finer grit as very little matl needs to be removed
I also plan to use a single facet grind,havent decided on the angle yet
Still to played about with.If my memory serves me when I used to hand grind
twist drills years ago and I was quite good anything above 5mm was lightly ground by eye and then the back relieved (2nd Facet) As the drills got smaller
then a single facet between say 5 and 15 o was ground and below 2mm it
was more luck than good judgement.I have lots of playing to do just for fun
will keep you informed.Meanwhile I have just purchaced a few quality drills
from 3 to 8mm as test pieces
 
Norman,

As Baz has stated, if you are just resharpening, then grit sizes need to be rather small to obtain decent results.

I have been using diamond wheels for a few years, and my roughest is 1200 grit, in both wheels and laps.

More depends on the direction of cut (grind), it is best if the grind is at right angles to the cutting face, especially if grinding or lapping tungsten, go across the cutting face and the edge is very liable to chip away in quick order.

John
 
Hi Baz,

In order to get the drill cutting edge and any facets exactly in the right place the tip of the drill should fall on the centre line of the wheel face and the point at which the drill is pivoted to create the primary and secondary facets.

The pictures might help explaining what I'm getting at. However if you are only bothering doing a conical grind then treat this as for information only.

Drill Grinder Geometry.jpg

Figure-1.jpg

I've just noticed that the word "Table" in the picture should say "Drill". These are from my notes when making John Moran's 4 - 6 Facet Drill Sharpener.
 
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