Band saw blades.

[purpleknif]

I just stole a pretty much new Craftsman 10" band saw at an auction. Before I get carried away with a stand and blades and such Does anyone have any recommendations for what blades to buy? just gonna be cuttin aluminum & brass. Been wantin to get the HF drop saw but at $25 it was too good to pass up. Prolly gonna have to change the pulley to slow it down some.

Thanks

 

[Herbiev]

It depends on how much you are willing to spend. Starrett have a good site with lots of info on their blades

 

[Mike N]

Is this made to cut metal?

Sounds like a wood cutting band saw.

Does it have 3 small wheels, if so the metal blades don't like the small bending radius.

 

[lampy]

I picked up a 10" skil band saw at a yard sale for $10, I have used it to cut 2" thick aluminum.... it isn't the best but it beats a hack saw and it was only $10..... I found blades for mine for less than $10 on Amazon....

 

[Blogwitch]

You should find that the standard cheapo carbon blades with a tooth count of around 24tpi will cope very well cutting brass and ali, it did me for well over 20 odd years for cutting all my non ferrous barstock. A standard carbon blade would last me at least six months, sometimes a year. I could cut up to 3.5" thick with no problems.

It is when you get to cutting ferrous that you need to start to look at slowing things down and using bi-metal blades. Then you will usually have to get them made for you, as I do, as the blades are usually a lot shorter than the standard bi-metal ones you can buy in packs.

I did modify mine at the first opportunity and put home made roller bearing guides on instead of the plastic blocks it came with (I'm still on the original bearings after 25 years). That allowed me to use a 1/2" wide blade instead of the recommended 1/4" or 3/8" blade, and it cuts straight as a die.

John

 

[purpleknif]

Thanks for the input. Its a full size 2 wheeler. As fa as slowin it down I guess its gonna be easier to buy a speed control box. The motor pulley is already real small. I assume a "router speed control will work. Its a 1/3 hp motor.

 

[steamer]

What Bogs said about blades....I usually go with the Bimetal so I only stock 1 item.

Dave

 

[deverett]

Thanks for the input. Its a full size 2 wheeler. As fa as slowin it down I guess its gonna be easier to buy a speed control box. The motor pulley is already real small. I assume a "router speed control will work. Its a 1/3 hp motor.

My understanding of electric motors - not very much, I admit - is that if it is a 1ph induction motor, you can't alter the speed. If it is an electric drill type motor (with brushes), you can alter the speed.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[pkastagehand]

Thanks for the input. Its a full size 2 wheeler. As fa as slowin it down I guess its gonna be easier to buy a speed control box. The motor pulley is already real small. I assume a "router speed control will work. Its a 1/3 hp motor.

If you can locate it under the machine in whatever base you rig up you could always and a jackshaft between motor and saw pulley. Get more reduction that way. Or even buy a small gear reducer 20:1 maybe.

Paul

 

[bigo]

Use a threadmill motor and the control, I have done several they work great and most are free on the curb. Make yor own blades silver solder them your self, make a jig, propain torch, and some sheet silver solder and your in business (Kernbigo)

 

[surfside]

I know this is an old post. My blades are Haltbar , I purchase them on sawblade.com. It's working great.

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