Anyone here add a DRO to a Bridgport?

[d-m]

I used DRO PROS when I was looking, I was pleased shipping and support was top notch. For weeks after I seemed to have a hard time, I was allways double checking the dro with the hand crank LOL.
Have fun, and happy new year!!
Dave

 

[CMS]

With the exception of cleaning up the wiring, I hope the install is complete. The only forwarning I could give to anyone is all the hardware is metric. The kit came with ample amounts of 5mm & 6mm cap screws washers and nuts, 4mm hardware was just right, but the 3mm selection was short. But fortunate for me, I have a good selection of metric nuts bolts and washers. I don't really like the way the trolley bracket worked out for the Z axis, but I was bound to try to install everything with what was supplied in the kit. Will more than likely make a more eye appealing bracket in the future. There also wasn't any way of mounting the chip cover on the Z axis ether. I messed up on the Y axis by not mounting the scale low enough, but for the most part it's covered by the tablr anyway, so I think it will be ok.

 

[JimM]

I'm also looking at fitting DRO's - got a quick question on scale sizing though. If the table is 28" wide with a travel of 18" what size scale would I need ?

Thanks

Jim

 

[CMS]

My table is 32" with maybe 20" travel. A touch short because of the old power feed, but anyway, the scale I used was 600mm long and I could have went longer with out extending past the table but the extra length would've been useless. The guy I dealt with, Tom, was very helpfull and knolageable. Go to the DROPRO websight, there's lots of videos and pictures on useage and installations.

 

[Blogwitch]

There is nothing wrong with your Z axis setup, but I personally would be a little worried over the cable run to the read head. Especially since you couldn't get the protective cover to fit.

The spiral cable form is renowned for letting liquids run along them, and in your setup, any loose liquid would run straight down the cable and sit on the end of the read head. They are not waterproof, just resistant.

I mentioned it here, to explain the problem.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2314.msg23293#msg23293

With a little care, it is relatively easy to disassemble the read head and put the cable to exit from the other end. I have had to do it on a couple of my read heads, and they are still working OK (now asking for trouble).


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