Another European "Hoglet-V2" is finished

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Aug 31, 2014
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Hi all together

I`m presenting my fresh finished "Hoglet-V2" Engine, another one Made in Europe. This Engine has Cast iron Piston rings, Aluminum Pistons and a precision steelpipe (no hydraulic pipe) as Liner. All parts were made according to the Plan from Randall Cox, except the parts which are no more available, mostly concerning the Kickstarter. I made some small changes to make the engine look better and be more reliable. I put bearings into the connecting rods big and small end because there is no lubrication while running. I had some trouble with assembling the Crankshaft, cause the clamping mechanism shown in the plan doesnt clamp at all. So i made a Keyway into the crankshaft and glued all the parts with Loctite 638.
The ignition is made from two circuit boards containing the "Sage/Gedde Ignition coil driver" circuit wich was widely discussed here. I´m using two Ignition coils from an 1980`s Johnson 20 Hp Outboard engine and they are triggered by two bipolar Hallsensors. If someone wants to know more about the ignition System let me know.
Here are some Pictures and you can watch the running engine at Youtube. Here is the Link:

Greetings to all Builders Stefan K.


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Hello Guys

Thank you very much for the nice comments. I appreciate that.

Sure i can give more detailed information about the Kickstarter and the Ignition system that i made.
The Kickstarter is mostly made according to the Plans from Randall Cox. I replaced the no more available so called "clutch and Sprocket" Gear which drives a little (bicycle ?)chain to the crankshaft. with a toothbelt and a free running hub. Don`t know if this is the right word for it, but i hope you know what i mean. This hub is free running in one direction and locks in the other. The hub on the crankshaft is bolted on it and locks in both directions. The starting gear on the kicker has half of the teeth removed to make sure that the gears disengage when the kicker stands upright. This is necessary to prevent the whole starting system from getting destroyed when the engine kicks back, and it does kick back, depending on the igition timing.
Its easier to explain that if someone has the original plans.
I could also post some parts or pictures from the original Plan to make it more visible for all, but i don`t know if this might be a copyright problem.
The plans are from 2007 and Mr. Cox has already passed away, so i don`t know how to handle that. I personally have no problem with that.

The ignition system is completely selfmade. The only thing a have from the forum here is the schematic of the "Sage/Gedde- Ignition coil driver". You`ll find it here. I made my own little circuit boards and used one per cylinder. The circuits get triggered by two Hall sensors. There name is "PIC-H501", where PIC is the manfacturer. These Sensors are called "unipolar" but i found out that they react to the magnetic south Pole on one side and to the North Pole on the other side. So i glued two of them together face to face, and the magnets on the camshaft are facing them, one with the north and the other with the south pole.

I think its better if you ask me detailed questions. So i can provide you with the right answer. Or send me a PM.

Greetings Stefan
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Wonder why everyone puts the sprang bearing on the kick starter shaft or starter motor and not on the crankshaft? This way the chain only moves when starting and makes it less likely some kid will stick his finger in the works.
So, what is a "Sprang-bearing"? I can`t find a translation for it, not even Google can.
Misspelled should be "sprag" bearing or one way clutch bearing.

Benjamin Franklin once said he had no respect for someone who could not spell a word at least three ways.

I get mine from Boca Bearings, good prices and service. They seem to specialize in smaller sizes useful to us modelers.
I know this as a sprag clutch.
Ron Australia
Thank you.
Now I understand it too.
I was able to translate the term "sprag clutch" with Google into the words "Freilaufkupplung or Freilauflager"
used in German, which makes sense in German in this context.
Technical terms are sometimes difficult to translate.

I used one on my starter table from Amcan, part #CSK20. I paid $96 for it, which I think is total overkill, but it works very well.---Brian
Wonder why everyone puts the sprang bearing on the kick starter shaft or starter motor and not on the crankshaft? This way the chain only moves when starting and makes it less likely some kid will stick his finger in the works.

FYI, these are "one way needle roller bearings", because they have perfectly round needle bearings, while a sprag clutch has non-round, oval shaped, sprags

NB, I and several other BAEMCub members have learned the hard way they are designed to be run on hardened steel shaft, if you run them on unhardened shaft the shaft will get chewed up pretty quickly under engine starting type irregular loading, the plastic retainer gets destroyed and the needles start falling out, they transform from one-way-needle bearings to two-way-no-needle bearings :-( !!!

yes this engine is on my must-do list, and congrats to the poster for doing an enviably great job, but yes I too will be making lots of modifications, including an enclosed crankcase, it is after all supposed to resemble a motorcycle engine :) !!!
I used the one way bearing that you see in the attached Picture. The inner diameter is 8 mm, the outer is 12 mm. Bought it at Ebay and payed 3,99 euros a piece for it. And i put a ball bearing on each side of it, just to support the whole construction. And yes, the shaft is hardenend.

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