Adjustable Hand reamers-How to use?

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kenny,

How much material do you need to remove?

Did you get a tapered guide sleeve with the reamer? It wouldn't be much of a job to make one up if not. It will guide the reamer in the hole from the back side.

The expansion reamers work ok as long as you don't try to force it. They really don't work too well for "scraping" cuts in a rough hole unless there are an odd number of flutes. Mine have six flutes and that makes them easy to adjust for size, but once they start to chatter it's hard to correct. They aren't any good for interrupted cuts either due to the straight flutes.

Make sure to keep them clean, brush off any chips before you adjust or the chips can get under the locking rings and seat and screw things up. I use sulphurized thread cutting oil on mine, other cutting fluids will work, just use something. Don't try to push the reamer through the hole too fast, let it cut. When you adjust size, don't measure just one flute, measure all and in more than one spot. If dirt got under the blades, that will show it.

Take your time and keep things clean, should be no problem.

Kevin

 
Kenny I have a set also and still have problems using them. I also bought a full set of fixed reamers and mostly use them now. All the advise Joeby just gave I echo. Just make sure that you only adjust them a tiny bit at at time.

TC Bob
 
joeby said:
Kenny,

How much material do you need to remove?

Did you get a tapered guide sleeve with the reamer? It wouldn't be much of a job to make one up if not. It will guide the reamer in the hole from the back side.

The expansion reamers work ok as long as you don't try to force it. They really don't work too well for "scraping" cuts in a rough hole unless there are an odd number of flutes. Mine have six flutes and that makes them easy to adjust for size, but once they start to chatter it's hard to correct. They aren't any good for interrupted cuts either due to the straight flutes.

Make sure to keep them clean, brush off any chips before you adjust or the chips can get under the locking rings and seat and screw things up. I use sulphurized thread cutting oil on mine, other cutting fluids will work, just use something. Don't try to push the reamer through the hole too fast, let it cut. When you adjust size, don't measure just one flute, measure all and in more than one spot. If dirt got under the blades, that will show it.

Take your time and keep things clean, should be no problem.

Kevin

Thanks for the tips Kevin. It's unclear at this point how much I need to ream, I plan on drilling the casting close but undersized-then ream to a slip fit and Loctite(red) the bushings into the casting. Then I will ream the bushing for a slip fit of the hinge pin.
 
deere_x475guy said:
Kenny I have a set also and still have problems using them. I also bought a full set of fixed reamers and mostly use them now. All the advise Joeby just gave I echo. Just make sure that you only adjust them a tiny bit at at time.

TC Bob

Thanks Bob...Having a full set of reamers would be nice-but not in the budget, especially for this POS 4x6 saw! I think (read:hope) that since the cast iron casting is relatively soft-as well as the Oilite bushings then things will go well.

I am however just a DA tractor guy who bought a nice lathe and a POS mill/drill and thinks he knows how to use them :eek:
 
I use sulphurized thread cutting oil on mine, other cutting fluids will work, just use something.

Kevin/all,

I just thought about this statement...I know you drill and tap cast iron dry, Would the same apply to reaming?
 
Kenny,

I would ream the cast iron dry or with sulphurized oil, use cutting oil on the bushings also. The heavy, dark Rigid thread cutting oil is what I use (on cast iron). You are correct though, cast iron is usually drilled and tapped dry, although I've seen kerosene used also.

Kevin
 
kennyd said:
I am rebuilding my 4x6 bandsaw and adding Oilite bushings to the pivot. I will need to ream the cast iron casting as well as the bushings...

I am looking for advice on how to use them please...


Kenny

Kenny

I hope I have understood your question correctly about reaming the Oilite bushings.

I don't think it will be a good idea to ream the Oilite bushings. If you ream them, you will close up the pores that give the bushing its lubricating properties. From what I understand, the bushings are made to be a press fit into the housing to give a standard size bore for the shaft.

If I am wrong, then I am sure I will be put in my place pdq.

Dave
The Emerald Isle
 
Actually, the best method for oversizing Oilite bushings is EDM. Failing that, reaming will work at the risk of closing the pores.

Honing Oilite may not be so good either.

Although reaming or boring may not be the "best" method, if done with sharp tools you can get by okay.

Kevin
 

Latest posts

Back
Top