A new ignition circuit

[jgedde]

it should look like this when finish
curious what are you planning to use this on

Thanks Luc! That's exactly what I had in mind.

Also, thanks for making that sketch. I haven't had a lot of free time to work on my engines and post on forums, so you saved me a bunch of time by taking care of this.

Cheers!
John

 

[jgedde]

I have some questions about the grounds for this board. I'm sorry but I can't read electrical schematics.

I do know what the ground symbol is though.

1. Where does the ground go for at line E3 that runs off C3.
2 " " " " " " " " E5. I'm assuming this is batt neg post.
3 " " " " " " " " E7.
4 " " " " " " " " E8 off of D3.
5 And finally where does the ground go at E4 off of Q1 where it says "see note 5"


I'm sorry if this seems obvious to most people but I'm not learned in electronics. My son can read the plan and build the board but he doesn't know ignition systems so he doesn't know where they go either.

Thanks

Ron

Ron, the second drawing in post 63 shows how the circuit gets wired externally. The yellow box is the circuit board and everything outside of the box is either on or near your engine.

The power switch is basically akin to an ignition switch.

I suggest that the circuit be built first with terminal strips or equivalent for each of the E designators. Now, you can follow the second diagram to wire it all up.

Best of luck to you!
John

 

[ozzie46]

Thanks John. That helps too.

Luc I 'm using it on a "Mastiff" 4 cyl 4 stroke enine that was in Model Engineer back in 1973.

I just finished the plugs and took them to friend that has a buzz coil and checked them out. All 4 spark where they should , not where they shouldn't. ;D;D

Here's a link.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1932.0.html

Ron

 

[ozzie46]

Thanks John. That helps too.

Luc I 'm using it on a "Mastiff" 4 cyl 4 stroke enine that was in Model Engineer back in 1973.

I just finished the plugs and took them to friend that has a buzz coil and checked them out. All 4 spark where they should , not where they shouldn't. ;D;D

Here's a link.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,1932.0.html

Ron

Here is the picture of the motor cycle coil. Orange with white stripe is positive. The side posts of the cylinder is ground. The white wire is unknown ( any idea please let me know). Please advise on how to connect this coil to the sage/circuit we have been chatting about.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Here is the picture of the motor cycle coil. Orange with white stripe is positive. The side posts of the cylinder is ground. The white wire is unknown ( any idea please let me know). Please advise on how to connect this coil to the sage/circuit we have been chatting about.

BEFORE YOU BLOW ANYTHING UP

put POSITIVE wire from battery to your ORANGE wire
this is the same positive of your circuit

put a ground wire from your battery to your side post

NOW USE ANOTHER WIRE FROM GROUND AND FLASH IT" SMALL TOUTCH" WITH THE WHITE ONE, IT SHOULD CREATE A SPARK.

from the HT wire to ground




if you don't see any, ask your wife to hold the coil in her hand and do the same thing




You might not see a spark, but you will feel the slap in your face if there is oneRof}Rof}Rof}

 

[canadianhorsepower]

it should look like this when it's done

 

[ozzie46]

Luc,

All these connections I'm talking about now are on the board only.

I have E1, E2and E3 all connected together as Positive (+). Tha'ts what it appears to be in the digram. It has E1,E2 and E3 all as (+) E1 says vcoil. What is "vcoil" There is a dotted line connecting E1 and E3 so I'm guessing that means to connect them together by a jumper. Then E2 says coil (+) so I'm guessing that means to connect it to E1and E3. Is this correct?

E4 is connected to the emiter side of Q2 only.


All grounds are connected and come out at E5. Is this right?

I keep looking at the video John posted on youtube and it looks like he has a wire from either E2 or E3 connected to the metal casing of the spark plug but that is where the negative (-) or E5 should go right? That would be engine ground.

Sorry to be such a dunce about this. :wall::wall::wall:

Ron

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Luc,

All these connections I'm talking about now are on the board only.

I have E1, E2and E3 all connected together as Positive (+). Tha'ts what it appears to be in the digram. It has E1,E2 and E3 all as (+) E1 says vcoil. What is "vcoil"

v coil is what supply voltage to the Positive side of your coil,
you are using single voltage so E1,2,3 are tied together

There is a dotted line connecting E1 and E3 so I'm guessing that means to connect them together by a jumper.

yes tied them together




Then E2 says coil (+) so I'm guessing that means to connect it to E1and E3. Is this correct?


yes tied them together

E4 is connected to the emiter side of Q2 only.

yes right again


All grounds are connected and come out at E5. Is this right?

yes again

I keep looking at the video John posted on youtube and it looks like he has a wire from either E2 or E3 connected to the metal casing of the spark plug but that is where the negative (-) or E5 should go right? That would be engine ground.

don't bother about that video, follow the diagram I posted yesterday
and you will be fine
IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY SPARKS .............................
YOUR LEAD SHOULD BE FLASHING. AT LEAST

Sorry to be such a dunce about this. :wall::wall::wall:

 

[ozzie46]

Thanks Luc, will give it a try today. after I fix a few more mistakes on the circuit.
Will let you know the results.
Ron

 

[ozzie46]

OK here's what I have;

E1 to orange on coil
E2 to Orange on coil
E3 to Batt (+)
E4 to white on coil
E5 to Batt (-) and grounded to coil mounting screws
Plug grounded to coil mounting screws
Hall sensor in E6,7and 8

Nothing happens when I try magnet.

Using test lite this happens
test lite to R3= plug sparks
test lite to R6 = plug sparks
test lite to R5 = LED lites
test lite to D3 = plug sparks
test lite on E8 side of C2 = LED lites

test lite to other resistors shows nothing.
Any ideas?

Ron

 

[canadianhorsepower]

your all sensor is in backward
or burned
or your magnet is backward
you need south pole to energise

now E6 = positive
E7 = ground
E8 = signal in

 

[ozzie46]

I thought I had it in right. I'll double check.

I'm using 2 different magnets that oppose each other for testing.

Ron

 

[ozzie46]

Looked up sensor data sheet found correct polarity, changed out sensor for new one, still won't work. :wall::wall::wall:

Ron

 

[ozzie46]

Remembered that on magnets opposites attract so I flipped one magnet, still no luck.

Ron

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Try one magnet at a time
Check polarity of wire at all sensor

 

[ozzie46]

Progress!!!
I got the LED to lite but still no spark.

Son had put two 100K resistors where there were supposed to be 100 ohm resistors plus he had put Q1 in wrong. Changed it out and put a new one in.

So since Led flashes do you think the problem is in coil and plug wiring. I know plugs are good. A friend checked them out on his buzz coil and they all sparked.

Ron

 

[ozzie46]

I did that coil check test from post # 105 and I get a very very weak spark from plug wire ( high tension) to ground. you can't hardly even see it. The white wire flashes pretty good.

Maybe problem is coil now?

Ron

 

[stevehuckss396]

Some coils are made to work with CDI ignitions and magnitos and require a higher voltage to the primary side of the coil. Try a standard coil for a early 70's chevy or something like that.

 

[ozzie46]

Thanks Steve I'm trying to come up with one. This coil is out of a 70s or something motorcycle. Maybe a Suzuki.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Some coils are made to work with CDI ignitions and magnitos and require a higher voltage to the primary side of the coil. Try a standard coil for a early 70's chevy or something like that.

Thanks Steve I totally forgot your coil can come from anything that has
a points and condenser or it wont work
substitute your coil with a test light again