Kaleb
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2010
- Messages
- 272
- Reaction score
- 27
My Dad has pointed out flaws in my workmanship that occur because I have tended to rush things, and my other projects are running into problems because of this. So Dad and I are building a more refined engine. This will be a single acting oscillating engine with a 12mm (1/2") bore and a 30mm (just over 1") stroke.
The cylinder is made from some brass tube (I think it might be shower rail, but I'm not sure.)
A closeup of the cylinder with the machining done on the outside to remove the nickel plating, next to the parent material.
This crankshaft came out of a scrounged Kawasaki whipper snipper engine that had a carburettor problem. I reckon it's quite a nice crankshaft, especially since it was not made with appearence in mind. The balancing should also make for very smooth running characteristics, and the big cylinder should enable it to go right down to a tick over.
Since this is an oscillating engine, the wrist pin hole is not needed. There is an oil penetration hole that will be tapped, and a brass plug will be silver soldered into the wrist pin hole, and then drilled to get a longer thread. By the way the liner in there turns out to be brass. I originally thought it was hardened steel, and would need to be removed, but I was wrong.
I'm hoping that this engine will be a good one since there is actually some precision involved.
The cylinder is made from some brass tube (I think it might be shower rail, but I'm not sure.)
A closeup of the cylinder with the machining done on the outside to remove the nickel plating, next to the parent material.
This crankshaft came out of a scrounged Kawasaki whipper snipper engine that had a carburettor problem. I reckon it's quite a nice crankshaft, especially since it was not made with appearence in mind. The balancing should also make for very smooth running characteristics, and the big cylinder should enable it to go right down to a tick over.
Since this is an oscillating engine, the wrist pin hole is not needed. There is an oil penetration hole that will be tapped, and a brass plug will be silver soldered into the wrist pin hole, and then drilled to get a longer thread. By the way the liner in there turns out to be brass. I originally thought it was hardened steel, and would need to be removed, but I was wrong.
I'm hoping that this engine will be a good one since there is actually some precision involved.