1 more Poppin

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got a few more parts wiped out.


Today was finishing con rod , and sleeve. Con rod was turned and milled to size , then drilled holes for pin and crankshaft. Not hard but time consuming. I want my mill sooo bad.

Also had to mill out base to fit new con rod. I like this one much better. So far this is the nicest one I've done and still needs tweaked out. I didn't turn bosses on it , so hoping I don't have clearance issues while running.

30 strokes average flipping the flywheel, beautiful sliding of piston and no binds. I'm happy for today

image.jpg
 
Now all that's left is drill and tap an 080 hole in valve rocker. Knowing what I know now of this model I would of went bigger on some parts to account for larger screws. Valve rod and con rod (piston end). Not really like below 2/56

Anyways here' another pic

image.jpg
 
Hi there, ive just started building a poppin engine of my own, as you have almost finished yours you may be the best person to ask. I was looking at the two piece flywheel arrangement and was wondering is the any reason why it has been designed as a flywheel n seperate hub with a nut on the back? Are there any benefits? I was wondering if i could just machine the flywheel as a one piece. Any help would be appreciated, your engine is looking great!
Thank
Joe
 
Petit, thanx for the interest. As for the flywheels I don't see a issue. As long as u have a way to connect the cam to the flywheel. U would still need some type of adjustable fastener. May offset balance.
I used common thread 5/16' and a nut from the drawer to save some machining time.
Only thing I think I would change is making the hub to flywheel. Don't thread the whole distance, leave a 1/8 inch wide hub to fit exact inside bore of flywheel. If. U thread all the way to the the step, it has nothing to ride on and will wobble.

Hope this helps
 
Ahh ok i didnt realised the hub was a means to attach the cam, thats ok ill machine it as its designed, i have 8mm brass nuts so will use them. I didnt actually realise how small the componants where on this model untill i started gather materials for it. Are there any parts that can be made larger?
Joe
 
Finished up all machining on the poppin, I hope anyways, am trying to straighten the crank on the lathe. Loctite did not grab very good the first time, prob due to not enough clearance. Also needs to be pinned, so that's next if I don't muck it up.

image.jpg
 
Here's all the parts except for the spring. This one I'm thinkin black with the stainless fasteners will look good. Still deciding on red or black for the recess in flywheels . Outside HUD will be posted steel. Started the standard tonite

Petit, as you can see from the photos I enlarged the connecting rod to handle 2/56 screws, I also made the valve rocker larger. The drill wandered on the initial hole and needed straightening, which left space in the center of the shaft easier to drill. Then turned to fit bearing on ends, Plans called for 080 I think and that's pretty hard to center, again 2/56 was thread used on both ends. Also made the piston yoke a little larger. I used 1/4 inch hex brass rod. Would of like to make the rod shaft bigger right where it connects to the piston, for a little beefier joint, the rest would stay the same. But this is me , I have great luck with 2/56, and terrible luck at 080. I'm really happy I did the crank like this as, I think it makes it look more authentic versus a model. Now let's just hope it runs:hDe:

image.jpg
 
As of now I'm officially done except the spring. Will try later tonite when weather cools. It's so muggy I can't walk from inside to outside without my glasses foggin up.

Anyways finished painting and polishing , timing is set to look like it runs, but sure this will change. Hoping to get running without much trouble considering their reputation.

image.jpg
 
Looks good! I like the black detailing! I hope it runs!
 
Had a chance to start on the burner. Started with 1 1/2 inch hex bar. Bored out the center and made 2 caps, since the first is m.i.a. After bein launched out of the vise. Loctite'd top to base
Holes are 5/16 with threaded inserts. Wick made from and old rope,. And removable for changing or cleaning

image.jpg
 
She's a running now.

th_wav After rebuilding the crankshaft from bein bent , I manged to get its first life today. Am thrilled that I can actually build a motor. Also redone the fuel canister. Made from a 5/8 bar bored out with soldered wick tube, . Wick is a string from an old sweatshirt hoody.:noidea::noidea:. Works good with Coleman fuel, and I don't need much wick out. Quite a small amount actually.

So on to mounting it on a wood base. By then hope to have video figured out. I only do stuff on the ipad so, we will see what happens

image.jpg
 
Looks great, glad you got it running, inspired me to crack on with mine! Looking forward to seeing the video!
 
Well since my motor is running , it's time to make it pretty.

Started with head, being cast iron I will need to keep up on it so it don't rust. Thought a high temp clear, I still think it will turn color or burn so,

image.jpg
 
Finished turned on. A wooden dowel cut down the center with a screw to hold it.

image.jpg
 
Just out of interest mate what size bearings did you use? I was thinking 8x4x4?
 
Hi petit, thanx for the compliments. As for bearings I used the ones the plans call for. The company is still in business, but they are pricey I think. I'm guessing you are not from the u.s. Mine was made with inch measurements, but in mm this is what they measure.

7.90 outside diameter,
3.85 hole diameter and
3.15 wide .
I'm sure your measurements would work, u just have to account for your differences in size, namely the crank, and the bearing cap holes.
On mine I have an outer lip that keeps the bearing from sliding all the way thru. I bought these since the non lip ones were on back order, but worked out fine. This way I don't have to rely on just the 080 thread to hold them in place. Here is a pic. Hope this helps

image.jpg
 
Brilliant thanks, yeah i am from the uk so its easier for me to make the poppin to metric equivalents in some places. Ill have a look for the flanged bearings i didnt actually see that the bearings sizes were listed oops! Looking forward to seeing yours running!
Cheers
Joe
 

Latest posts

Back
Top