Werowance attempts Upshur Vertical Single

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I wouldn't take a chance on putting more heat into the top plate. There is no real loading on the tappet guides. I would use Loctite.---Brian

Thanks Brian, i actually was thinking about the heat and maybe re-melting the cylinder solder when i was asking. you just confirmed my fear of that.

i appreciate the feed back on that. ill locktite them when comes time for final assembly then.
well very little progress this month so far. real work and home work both are a lot busier than normal. garden, yard and sawmill at home have need a lot of attention this month. at any rate I managed to get everything to clear and rotate. then started on the points brass pieces. one of the brass pieces called for .025 brass shim stock which I didn't have so I started sanding some thicker stock down to the right thickness. was having a hard time holding it then I remembered seeing a trick on this website of super gluing the stock to a larger parent stock (aka an old cutting bit) and man does that make a world of difference when trying to thin down shim stock on a surface plate.

the mock up photo with the gear cover on it is just hanging there not really glued on yet so if you see the gap at the top of the gear cover its just hanging on a gear tooth just for the picture

and then last a few pics from my yard/garden work lately








  • 1592232094820.png
    651 KB · Views: 367
  • 1592232170397.png
    999.6 KB · Views: 399
  • 1592232562255.png
    728.9 KB · Views: 368
another spacer made last night. this one to keep the points cam from rubbing the outer race of the ball bearing. if I had thought about it I would have machined a little lip or something on the cam to prevent that but I didn't so a teeny tiny thin walled brass spacer was made. and then a partial mock up of the points setup.







  • 1592312841186.png
    655 KB · Views: 374
finished up the points this weekend. threading that 4-40 brass rod was a concern of mine but it came out good and didnt bend on me. on the capacitor, plans call for a .2 or .3 micafarrad rated for 300 or 400 volts. what it doesnt say is electrolytic, ceramic disk or etc... any recomendations for this? a regular points condensor would probably look large and out of place on this engine but that may be what i have to do...

guess next will be the flywheel sleeve and ordering some cast iron to make some rings out of



Looking really good Werowance. I made up a set of points like yours for one of the first engines I built---Might have been the Webster. I got such intermittent results from them that I took them off and bought a set of Dodge car points from the local auto supply store. I have used Dodge points on my i.c. builds ever since.---Brian
What coil are you going to use? I use a .1uf 400 volt poly cap for my 6 volt model coil. I also have .22 in 630 volts but they are slightly larger. Panasonic ECW-FA2J224J .22 @ 630 volts. The .1 is the smallest at 400 volts but I don't have a part no. handy. Let me know by email and I will send you one or both.
12 volt ford coil, thank you for the part numbers. Roy id like to purchse one or 2 from youif that's ok, with your permission ill pm you?

Brain, on the points I considered using store bought points like I did on the Webster but I just wanted to give this a shot and see what it was like and how to do it. honestly if this one works any future builds will be done with electronic hall effect ignition just for the ease of it. less hasell, less space taken up on the side of the engine etc.. but then again the only experience I have on electronic iginition is when I changed my old farmall from points to a pertronix iginition. no more dead points after that.
is "CL 40" acceptable for cast iron piston rings? i normally look for the words pearlitic gray cast iron or Durabar but cant find any at an acceptable cost. but CL 40 is available at reasonable pricing.
Use my S/S Machine email and send me your address so I can get a couple of the .22's in the mail to you.
last night I worked on the flywheel busing. made from steel and press fitted into the string starting pully hub and flywheel. had to make it twice before I got a press fit. and its a tight press fit as well. put the shaft in a container of ice to shrink it a bit then some green locktight and the arbor press put it in its place. I left excess material so I could easily re chuck it and cross drill for the set screw and then ill part it off.
on the set screw, plans call for 1 screw but what do you think of cross drilling all the way through so I could do a set screw on both sides? wouldn't that be better?

then on the cast iron question again, anyone know if CL40 is acceptable for piston rings?




werowance, where did you get your 60 tooth and 30 tooth gears? Did they have hubs on them?
werowance, where did you get your 60 tooth and 30 tooth gears? Did they have hubs on them?

I made them my self. messed up a few time doing it as well.

But the plans suggest they can be purchased from PIC design at 800-243-6125 Part Numbers JL-30 and JL-60 hubless. that may be J1 instead of JL as the plans were done using a type writer so the L and The 1 looks the same.

what I did was looked up the part numbers and looked at the spec pdfs for the gears then cut my own from those specs.
oh and in one of my tool boxes I found a piece of store bought Cast Iron. I kept trying to remember where / when I bought it and then remembered its left over from my failed BJ cicada build. it was pealitic gray cast iron so should be exactly what I need for the rings. thank goodness cause the PG CI listings were very expensive. I assume due to the covid virus or something. I know 1 lb pack of hamburger was 7.00 US at the grocery store yesterday....
finished up the 3 piece flywheel lastnight. made the executive decision to do 2 set screws, one on each side.
Generally, setscrews shouldn't be on opposite sides, look at any hub with 2 setscrews and they'll be at 90° to each other. My understanding is that the idea/engineering behind it is that the two setscrews create a stable triangle with the line contact between the shaft and the bore that prevents rocking and subsequent loosening of the screws. Two setscrews on opposite sides aren't better than one and the problem is that if the fit isn't tight already, it allows the hub to rock on the shaft, one screw would probably be better as there would be a wider contact 'line' opposite the screw to prevent the rocking.
Set screws should be 90 degrees apart, not 180. I must have put that note on about ten thousand shaft and hub drawings. "Set screw and set screw on quarter".---Brian

Latest posts