Water pump

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Whooo Hoo!
I told my Dad and he will let me buy it as soon as I get the boiler put together:( I'm working on a system to coil the tubing, it takes alot of leverage. We tried wrapping a peice around a telephone pole, but how to get it off ? :big: :big: :big: Good thing it was only a small piece.
 
;D ;D ;)

Hi Guys,

Ok Tel and Kevin, I did not think you would be hurt by my jumping in.

Ranger..

I would agree that the proposed pump should be more than satisfactory, however, just to be absolutely sure, since I do not know the size or requirements of your steam engine, here are a few more calcs and suggestions before you get going on the tube bending which should confirm this beyond any doubt

We have established that the maximum pumping rate @ 1000strokes per minute gives you 82.8 cu ins water per minute.

We also know that 1 cu in water will produce 169cu in steam @ 150psi

so.....82.8 x 169 = 13,993.2cu in steam per minute can be produced, assuming it is all fully evaporated in that timescale.

To calculate the requirements of your engine: -

Area of bore (pi x r^2) x stroke = swept volume for one cylinder full of steam.

If your engine is single acting (which I suspect) then multiply this result by the revs per minute required to give the total steam required in 1 minute.

If your engine is double acting....I.E the cylinder is fed from both ends on alternate half strokes...then multiply the answer by 2.

If the resulting final figure is less than the 13,993.2cu in/min figure then you have got no problem and a flow valve on the pump outlet will be all that is required to control the water.

If your engine requires more...which I very much doubt....then you may have to increase the pump stroke rate via suitable gearing.....run your engine a bit slower......or use a larger pump.

Since 13,993.2cu in/min is a lot of steam...I don't really think you will need to worry...but it is always sound engineering practice, for any project, to do the math. :p :p :'( :'( ;) ;)


PUMP FLOW CONTROL.

If you fit a flow valve to the pump, to control the flow, then only fit one to the output side....it is not good practice to restrict the input side of any pump.

COPPER TUBE TYPE L.

Type L copper tube, supplied in a coil , should be of the annealed type and hence should be reasonably easy to bend round a suitable former.... just be carefull you don't try to make the bend radius to tight or the walls will deform and possibly collapse thus ruining the tube.

If you need to join the tube then silver solder (using an in-line coupler) is the best way, however, keep the joint away from the hot end of the spiral...towards the top would be best.

For the inlet and outlet fittings....keep them outside the main casing, especially the output one, and use the END FED TYPE (Ask your Dad about these)...silver soldered to the tube.

Compression fittings are not safe at such high pressures, neither are the solder ring types...the SOFT solder in these would melt, or at least become very week, at the temperatures you will be dealing with...steam at 150psi is at approx 366deg F....you can not silver solder the solder ring types either so avoid them like the plague.

BTW...Feed water should also be input from the top of the spiral with steam taken off at the bottom.

Hope this is of some use.

Best regards and keep at it...just take your time.

SandyC

PS.... just to be sure we are talking the same language.....the silver solder I am talking about is what I believe you call SILVER BRAIZING....which has a melting point of 630degC or higher, depending upon the grade.
It is used with a BORAX based flux.

The silver loaded high temp plumbing solder is not the same thing...this melts at a much lower temperature and is unsuitable.
 
SandyC said:
...
So: -
Area of 3/8" dia = 0.11045sq in x 0.75" stroke = 0.0828 cu in x 1000 strokes per minute = 82.8cu in per minute.

Divide by 231 (for US Gallons) = 0.358 galls per minute.
...

Good math!
 
Sandy, I will get working on the stroke a bore. I hope it's below the cubic feet of steam, this way I can have a bit of leeway, the engine isn't completley steam tight.
 
Figures are back.

It has a 2 3/8" bore and 1 1/2" stroke.

I used the link that tel gave me http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/volumetric/cylindervolume.php
And ended up with 6.64 cubic inches, thats per revolution. Multiply that by 1,000X6.64= 6,640 cubic inches add on a few leaks, and some more RPM. 1000 was just an average, I can get about 2000 on 120 psi of air.

So the water comes in the top and steam out bottom? I thought it was the opposite.
 
:) :)

Well done Ranger, spot on calculations.

You are sure to be pleased to find out that the pump will be more than adequate for the task.

As you can see, you have the capacity to even get to 2000rpm with a fair bit to spare.

Now all you have to worry about is building the boiler and a burner which can provide sufficient heat output to evaporate all that water in the same time frame.

I think you are going to need a pretty powerful one to meet the challenge.



Direction of water flow in a monotube boiler.

The reason for the reversed flow of water in this type of boiler is all to do with Effective heat transfer.

In a water boiler, Heat energy from the fire/burner is transferred to the walls of the water container (TUBE, BARREL, SHELL) by means of Convection (hot gasses) and by direct Radiation. (Closest to the heat source)

This heat is then transferred to the water initially by conduction through the material constituting the walls of the water shell/tube and then by convection within the water itself.

The amount of heat transferred through the shell/tube wall is dependent upon the thermal conductivity of the shell/tube material, the available heated surface area and the temperature difference on either side of the wall.
Other lesser factors, such as the surface contact time of the receiving media (water in this case) also play a role, however, we will ignore these for the purpose of this discussion.

HEAT will always travel from a HIGH TEMP side to a LOWER TEMP SIDE…. never the other way round.

If there is no temperature difference then there will be no heat transfer…regardless of the actual temperature, and the whole thing is said to be in THERMAL EQUILIBRIUM.

The higher the temperature difference, then the higher the potential heat transfer.


OK lets take a look at what this all means for your boiler: -

Lets first look at the flow of HEAT from your burner….

The burner is effectively located at the bottom of a vertical fire tube with a funnel (chimney) at the top to allow spent combustion gasses to escape.
Within this fire tube there is a set of smaller water tubes, arranged in a spiral running from top to bottom.

Heat from the burner, in the form of hot gasses; passes up through the spiral of water tubes by convection and in doing so transfer some of their available heat to the spiral of water tubes by direct contact (conduction) and then, NOW MUCH COOLER, pass out of the funnel (chimney).

HYPOTHETICALY: - In a good boiler the temperature of the gasses at the burner end could well be 1200deg C or more and the temperature of those leaving the funnel (chimney) could be as low as 150deg C. Meaning a high proportion of the heat generated by the burner has been absorbed/transferred to some other media…. Hopefully to the water spiral… and hence to the water…. But there are other possibilities, such as heat loss through the walls of the fire tube to the outside atmosphere, but we will ignore these for this exercise.

Assuming that most of this transfer is actually to the water spiral, then the difference in temperature of the gasses, between those at the burner and those at the funnel is a good indicator of the thermal transfer efficiency of the boiler.

Ok so now we have a situation where the gasses at the bottom of the fire tube are considerably hotter than those at the top.

If you now think about the water flow within the spiral: -

If cold water enters at the bottom it will have a high temperature difference to the gasses surrounding the spiral, and hence high potential transfer of heat can occur…. So far so good.

As the water heats up, it is also travelling upwards, towards the colder end of the spiral (remember the gasses are cooler up here) and potential transfer of heat will reduce.
Worse still…… at some point (indeterminate) inside the spiral, the water will achieve a temperature equal to that of the desired steam pressure (in your case 185deg C (365deg F) @ 150psi)….. But, in this hypothetical example, the gasses at the top are only at 150deg C…. NOW the heat will flow back out of the steam towards the colder gasses…. And the pressure of the steam will drop.

REMEMBER…HEAT WILL ALLWAYS FLOW FROM A HIGH TEMPERATURE TO A LOWER TEMPERATURE.

This will not happen if you reverse the flow of the water….. Think about it.

By reversing the water flow, you will always maintain a high gas temperature to low water temperature differential, and hence, you will always have heat flow into the water/steam.

In a conventional boiler (one with a pressure vessel) the steam is always in contact with the water it came from, which is at the same temperature, hence the heat cannot escape back to the gasses, since the water is between the 2. Neither can the heat escape from the water back to the gasses, since the gasses will always remain the hotter of the 2.
The majority of heat loss in this type of boiler is via the upper, outside, walls of the steam drum (those in contact with the atmosphere) which will make the steam in direct contact with the wall condense back to hot water again…. But it will be immediately replaced by more steam… thus maintaining pressure. Such losses can be minimised by proper insulation.
Also, with this type of boiler, feed water is normally injected at the bottom, or sometimes at mid-water level, and steam is taken from the top of the steam drum.

I hope you can understand this Ranger…it is a complex subject and not an easy one to explain in simple terms.
;D ;D



Perhaps now would be a good time to do some research into the complexities of steam and steam generation.

Here are a couple of good links that may be of help. ;) ;)

http://www.spiraxsarco.com

http://www.sparknotes.com/testprep/books/sat2/physics/chapter12section1.rhtml.

Although the first one deals with full size steam, the fundamental principles and steam tables are the same for model sizes.

Keep busy.

Regards.

SandyC

 
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