Using shims to tram a X2 mill

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zoltan

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My mini mill has the LMS solid column and base, where the column is attached to the base via bolts at the four corners.

I use shims between the column and base at the four mounting bolts in order to align the column. I'm currently using feeler gauges as shims. They are 0.5" wide and I always use two of them side by side to provide more coverage of the column/base mating area. Even so, the shims are only covering about 2/3 of the mating area.

So, once it's correctly trammed, should I buy shim stock in the correct thickness and make shims which would provide 100% coverage, or are the current shims adequate?
 
I would recommend the correct shim stock.Its not expensive Would suggest making 4 to cover most of a 1/4 area and punch holes or cut slots'
You could also fine tune with alum baking foil approx 1/2 thou per leaf
Electrolitic action wont be a problem.Good luck,i will probably have the same problem when i buy my mill.Dont know if to pay extra and get the fixed column ?? regards barry
 
Hi As an owner of an X2 Mill Drill the fixed column is the way to go even if you have to shim the base to get things square and true.
Believe me the tilt column is a "PITA" until you add some serious stiffeners.
This will add heaps more rigidity enabling heavier cutting will be easier on the mill and your ears.
A decent tilting vice will cope with almost all milling on an angle.
There is screeds of posts on this and other forums on adding stiffeners to an X2.

Eric
 
Hi Eric,if you read my thread on bazmak diary of a sieg lathe you will see i paid
$350 extra for a 400 bed,camlok tailstock and steel gears.Well worth the extra
Now seems i will have to make the same decision on the mill.I want the 500w motor,larger table etc And it seems a must to go for the fixed column and belt drive rather than gears.Any snippets of advise ? How long have you had yours.
What amount of shimming were you talking about to get the head trammed ? It seems to me a sign of poor quality control at the factory,if its needed
Where are you based ?,im in Adelaide South Australia Regards Barry
 
So, once it's correctly trammed, should I buy shim stock in the correct thickness and make shims which would provide 100% coverage, or are the current shims adequate?

Use a compound (polymer resin with a high percentage of metalpowder for enforcement ) specially made for that purpose such as Diamant Metallplastic DHW to provide force-fit cover on the whole mating area. You can use WD40 as a parting agent for most products (check this prior to use!).
 
Hi to Zoltan & Barry
The X2 mill I have is about 5 years old now and is the one with that silly tilt column that got the shakes when cutting anything but a very light cut.
Fabricated and fitted column stiffeners and trammed all true.
The clamp bolt for the column was replaced with a fine pitch thread to give a bit more grip.
Removed the gear drive, fitted taper roller bearings to the spindle, fabricated "Poly Vee" belt drive.
Fitted new 1100 watts DC motor and controller.
Yes a lot of modification that was all worth it.
Go for the very much improved X2 with fixed column and bigger table even it it will require some tuning and adjusting to get the best from it.
Took the liberty of adding a photo of my much modified mill with the belt guard removed

Eric

Z-Axis 13.jpg
 
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I've got an XJ9512 and have never needed to stiffen anything. It appears to be a much more solid machine. BTW, I've been a machinist for 30 years.:fan:
 

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