Split taper bushings for the Siamese Twin

[deere_x475guy]

Well what can I say....I read about it here: (thanks again Cfellows!)

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=711.15

and had to try it.

First thing I had to do was bore a taper in my flywheels. Got the 4 jaw out and did a quick center find with a dead center then refined it with a dial indicator.

Next I found a 1/8" HSS blank that I had laying around and made a very tiny boring bar with it. You will see that because of interference with the tool post and chuck I had to cut from the back side with the tool upside down. I set the compound to 8 degrees.

I did both wheels then without moving the toolpost from 8 degrees I cut the tapers on the bushings. I did this because I didn't feel confident that I could get the compound set exactly back to 8 degrees. If the tapers aren't perfect they won't do their job....don't ask me how I know. :

Next everything went over to the mill for drilling and taping.

And here is the final result:

It would have been much faster to just drill for a set screw and I had planned on doing just that until I read about the split bushing technique.

 

[cfellows]

Good job! Do the flywheels run true?

Chuck

 

[deere_x475guy]

Chuck the right one runs very nice but I have some run out on the left end of the crank that is causing some wobble. The crank was made up of 1" od brass so I am thinking about placing the whole assembly in my 1" collet and just touching up againist the end to try to true it up. I have about .0015 of run out on it. Thanks again...

 

[1Kenny]

Those look real nice, Bob. Does the taper lock flange stand away from the flywheel?

Kenny

 

[rake60]

Very Nice!

It gives it a heavy industry look as well.

Rick

 

[deere_x475guy]

Kenny good eye...yes they do just a tiny amount. I machined all 4 pieces to the same dimensions and during test fit up they didn't fit up flush but I thought that once the screws were tight they would pull up. Oh well now there is room to put a screw driver between the bushing and the flywheel. Live and learn...

 

[deere_x475guy]

Rake thanks..I am having a ball with this engine and learning a lot along the way. I am trying to come up with an elegant way to deliver the air/steam to it, what I should do with the frame (shaping it) and what to make for leg (will I ever finish my first engine?)

 

[1Kenny]

I am not sure, but I thought it is suppose to have a little stand off like you have it. In my mind it is admiration and it looks like big iron.

Kenny

 

[deere_x475guy]

Thanks Kenny, I have a hard time with scale and took my best guess that the thickness and diameter of the outer lip. Now if I could just get around to getting the dykema off of the frame..))

 

[Powder keg]

We use hubs just like that on the 1200 HP Snow Blowers that the place I work for makes. Some of them slip over a 6" shaft. They do need a little stand off, or they won't pinch the shaft. You did a really great job there.

 

[wareagle]

Excellent work! This is one method that is just really cool even if it takes a few more step to achieve.

 

[tattoomike68]

[/quote]

I can see right now I want to make a longer quill for my smithy, that long tailstock quill would be a huge blessing.

 

[Davyboy]

WOW! Great treatment on the flywheels. Really adds to an already great project. Can you actually see 'thou and a half' runout? Is it unequal torque on the clamp screws?

" Oh well now there is room to put a screw driver between the bushing and the flywheel. " OH NO! Just going to mark up some nice finishes. IIRC the industrial strength bushings have two tapped holes for 'jack screws' to push the tapers apart. I sure don't want to pick nits, you've done way more than I......