split bearing

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Speedy

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I am wondering if there is such a thing as a split bearing blank (brass or bronze etc, not ball or roller)

I am looking for a precise 5/8 OD, ID a little bigger then 5/16 (not final)

if a blank does not exist maybe 5/8 OD and anything for the ID

If only it was as easy as making your bearing then cutting it in half, unfortunately you loose the amount of the blade doing the cutting and then its not a perfect fit!
 
Take 2 pieces of brass or bronze and mill them square/rectangular to suit the overall size of the bearing. Tin them with soft solder (50/50) Clamp them together and heat with a propane torch until the solder oozes out from the sides. Let cool then mount in a four jaw chuck and center the stock. Now bore the center first then turn the outside. Cut off and unsolder. Voila, a split bearing.
gbritnell
 
Take 2 pieces of brass or bronze and mill them square/rectangular to suit the overall size of the bearing. Tin them with soft solder (50/50) Clamp them together and heat with a propane torch until the solder oozes out from the sides. Let cool then mount in a four jaw chuck and center the stock. Now bore the center first then turn the outside. Cut off and unsolder. Voila, a split bearing.
gbritnell

Thank you!!!!
happy happy happy :)
 
Michael

Agreed with gbritnell and I would remind you that your MyfordML7 has split bearings- shimmed in the headstock . They were made by Glacier and no longer available.

Regards

Norman
 
Hi Michael,

That is basically what I did when making one, only I used super glue and a hose clip.
DSCF0461.jpg
This was for my tapping stand. Since I didn't want to cut the T handle to pass it through the head piece. I made the hole big enough and then used the bush to fill the hole and support the T handle.
 
You can also slit a bit of round stock and solder it back together, your 5/8 one would come out of 3/4 Dia bar.

IMAG1816_zps57ad97ea.jpg


IMAG1817_zpsbb624603.jpg
 
thanks everyone!

Jason that looks like a good way also.
however, I am wondering what would be the easiest way to cut the rod in half before soft soldering?
 
Yep, hacksaw and then mill the mating faces flat, tin both and then sweat together
 
Take 2 pieces of brass or bronze and mill them square/rectangular to suit the overall size of the bearing. Tin them with soft solder (50/50) Clamp them together and heat with a propane torch until the solder oozes out from the sides. Let cool then mount in a four jaw chuck and center the stock. Now bore the center first then turn the outside. Cut off and unsolder. Voila, a split bearing.
gbritnell

Alternatively, use cyanoacrylate to put two rectangular pieces together, machine, and heat to separate. CA holds well and separates easily on a hotplate. Another approach is to pin the two halves together with pressed in pins; place the pins on either side of the finished bearing, machine, and then cut off and clean up ends as needed. This was the method I was taught years ago when I needed to replace some SB split bearings, and eliminates any need to solder/glue- at a cost of using about three times as much material. CA932 (aluminum bronze) makes really nice bearings; hold onto your hat when you order a piece; the cost will astound you.
 
Alternatively, use cyanoacrylate to put two rectangular pieces together, machine, and heat to separate. CA holds well and separates easily on a hotplate.
Much easier and not as messy.

Another approach is to pin the two halves together with pressed in pins; place the pins on either side of the finished bearing, machine, and then cut off and clean up ends as needed.
Ah, the time honored way, pre superglue :hDe:

CA932 (aluminum bronze) makes really nice bearings; hold onto your hat when you order a piece; the cost will astound you.
You will need an arm, a leg and a kidney for a billet of that stuff. I got quoted £200 for a foot of 50 mm diameter bar. I actually ended up with a piece of red brass from the scrapyard. £15.00p much better, though I did have to saw it off myself.
 
I agree, those only have a split down one side. Some types have a spiral split down one side. They are intended to be pressed into a loose tolerance hole.
 

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