Some pictures from my shop

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mklotz

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Well, it's a nice shop day (78 degF outside, 3 deg warmer than in the shop), so I took some pictures to cover a few things I've talked about recently as well as some new things I wanted to offer.

First is my impromptu shop tripod for my camera.

STAND1.jpg


A 3/8" rod stuck into one of those ubiquitous cheap magnetic DI holders. On the top of the rod is a miniature tripod head I picked up long ago at a quality camera store sale. The mag base can, of course, be stuck on any of the machines or, for bench top work, to my bench block as shown in the photo.

When it's not holding a camera, it holds a Maglite (tm) in easily adjustable positions using a holder I cobbled together from a block of scrap aluminum.

STAND2.jpg


Next are some deburring tools for tiny holes. They're pricey but well worth it if you do lots of really tiny holes. They consist of hardened steel disks set into handles. The largest and smallest, lying in front of the homebuilt holder are about 1/4" and 1/16" in diameter. You simply place the disk on top of the hole and rotate the handle with your fingertips to clean up the edge.

DEBURR.jpg


A recent thread discussed depth gages for the tailstock. Mine is nothing more than a DI fitted with a commercially available magnetic back stuck to the top of my TS. An extended feeler rod connects the DI with an aluminum block that clamps to the TS barrel. Dead simple and works a charm.

TSDGAGE.jpg


Note the wrench stuck to the TS body. HF sells a set of wrenches with magnets inlet into the plastic handles. I have several sets which I've broken up so that I can stick the appropriate-sized wrench right where it's needed on the machine.

Another thing discussed recently was the pump center. Here's a (staged) shot of mine set up. (And yes, that's a 3jaw chuck - I was too lazy to mount the heavy 8" 4jaw in order to take a picture.) Note the DI holding fixture secured to the compound by a large magnet. It plops in place with its axis automatically aligned to the lathe spindle axis. Also note the plate-like point on the DI to avoid any minor centering errors.

PUMP1.jpg


Sometimes the hole in the part that needs to be centered is larger in diameter than the pump center rod (3/8" in mine). For that case I made a pump rod bull center which slips over the pump rod as shown...

PUMP2.jpg


Finally, some of you may be wondering about that shelf-like thing hanging off the left of the carriage.

LTRAY.jpg


It's an aluminum plate secured via the traveling steady holes in the carriage and meant to catch swarf (and thread wires and small tools and tiny parted-off parts) before it falls onto the ways or leadscrew. The miniature sheetmetal dust pan sitting on it just fits the front of the shelf so it's easy to sweep debris into the dust pan and dump it on those rare occasions when I actually clean up.

Clever readers may be thinking, "Won't that thing hit the headstock if the carriage is moved to the left?" The answer is yes and that's why there's a limit switch held by a magnet to the HS where the shelf would contact. It sounds an alarm buzzer if I get too close.

Ok, that's enough for now. I'm off to the beach. The girls' volleyball team should be warmed up by now. LA may be a freaky place but you just can't beat the scenery.


 
mklotz said:
Next are some deburring tools for tiny holes. They're pricey but well worth it if you do lots of really tiny holes. They consist of hardened steel disks set into handles. The largest and smallest, lying in front of the homebuilt holder are about 1/4" and 1/16" in diameter. You simply place the disk on top of the hole and rotate the handle with your fingertips to clean up the edge.

DEBURR.jpg

Ahhh, watchmaker's tools show up in the strangest places. Those are used for cutting lubrication wells in watch & clock jewels. As you've shown, they have other applications having nothing to do with watch making & repair. As you know, watch tools are my favorites and it's nice to see others use them. :)

Thank you for sharing your shop, Marv.

Best regards,

Kludge
 
steamer said:
The Bench I built.

Ooooh, pretty! And more ideas for my minishop. (It's shown in another thread.)

Right now, my solo taps and their tapping drills are in really small baggies. My tap collection is be growing, and dies & clearance drills will be added as I go. Baggies will not last forever, even for the submetric taps & die plates. I know where I can get plastic boxes, both larger multi-section and smaller single section, in which I can store these tools and maybe *shudder* organize even more.

Best regards,

Kludge
 
I love it! Especially the cabinet of drawers.

And a GeeTar? ;D You play?

 
Folks, please. Lets try to stay on topic and not hijack Marv's thread.

Marv has been at this game for awhile and has some wonderful solutions to the problems we all encounter that he is willing to share, if we let him continue.


Thanks,
Kevin
 
Thanks, Kevin.

I know that thread drift is inevitable but steamer's post was really out of left field - especially so since he's posted those pics in a thread of his own and they bear no relation to what I posted.

Guys, hijacking threads is not very polite and I'm not just saying that because I'm the hijackee. Please exercise some forethought when you post by trying to imagine how your post would be received if roles were reversed and you were the original poster.

Ok, subject closed. Now, does anyone have any comments or questions about what I posted?
 
mklotz said:
Ok, subject closed. Now, does anyone have any comments or questions about what I posted?

Fifth & sixth photos down: How is the DI mounted there? I'm sure it's something obvious but I'm just not seeing it.

BEst regards,

Kludge
 
Kludge,

There's another photo of the fixture and a bit of discussion about it in this thread...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3820.0

There's nothing exciting about it. The DI is screwed to a plate attached to the black, forked piece. By sliding the forked piece up and down, the axis of the DI can be aligned to the lathe spindle axis. When it is, the forked piece is locked in place by tightening the screw that holds it to the steel angle to which the magnet is attached.

Since, once set up, this thing will never be adjusted, there was no need to make anything very fancy. I used whatever bits and pieces were lying around. The idea here is to cobble something that can be slapped in place and be ready to do its job without the need for adjustments (as would be the case with a conventional DI holder). Tools that can be used instantly are far more likely to be used than those that require tedious setup. The net result is better work.
 
There seemed to be a lot of interest in the construction of the dedicated DI holder so today I took a few more pictures.

DI2.jpg


DI3.jpg


DI4.jpg


I like dedicated purpose tools. I have a carriage stop cum DI holder on the right side of the carriage...

DI5.jpg


The DI is handy when I need to move the carriage by some precise amount. It also serves as an "alert" indicator when boring a blind hole or threading to a shoulder - I can watch it as it comes up on the point where the half nuts need to be disengaged.

The DI is mounted such that, if the carriage is run into the base, the carriage will hit the stop before the DI bottoms out. Thus the DI doesn't need to be removed to use it as a stop. "Why a stop on the right side of the carriage?", I hear them asking. You'll know the answer the first time you make a part with a stopped cut, e.g., a piston valve or a crankshaft.

I also have a more conventional stop on the left side of the carriage...

STOP.jpg


It was built back when I was starting out in this hobby so it's a bit beefier and bulky than it probably needs to be. Nevertheless, it works just fine. The extra long handle is so I can operate it when it's hidden under the carriage swarf tray I described above.
 
Kludge said:
Right now, my solo taps and their tapping drills are in really small baggies. My tap collection is be growing, and dies & clearance drills will be added as I go. Baggies will not last forever, even for the submetric taps & die plates. I know where I can get plastic boxes, both larger multi-section and smaller single section, in which I can store these tools and maybe *shudder* organize even more.

A decent container I found to store taps and dies is the Altoids mints tin-cans :)

img_traditional.jpg


Of course you'll have to go thru a lot of mints to get the many tins you might use !! The side benefit is you'll have pretty darn good smelling breath :big:

Mike
 
Next are some deburring tools for tiny holes. They're pricey but well worth it if you do lots of really tiny holes. They consist of hardened steel disks set into handles. The largest and smallest, lying in front of the homebuilt holder are about 1/4" and 1/16" in diameter. You simply place the disk on top of the hole and rotate the handle with your fingertips to clean up the edge.

These come in particularly handy after drilling steam holes in a cylinder. You use these tools to deburr the holes inside the cylinder.
 
ChooChooMike said:
A decent container I found to store taps and dies is the Altoids mints tin-cans :)

Okay, these are the tins that go to the electronics side of the house since they're nice little metal boxes into which I can build itty bitty circuits. I can probably talk myself into moving some to the machining side and maybe buying another gross to go with them. :D

Thanks!

BEst regards,

Kludge
 
mklotz said:
There seemed to be a lot of interest in the construction of the dedicated DI holder so today I took a few more pictures.

Many, many much lots of thanks. It was the magnets I didn't "see" ... until you mentioned they were magnets. Obviously my powers of observation need work.

Best regards,

Kludge ... slinking off to his corner now ...
 
Thanks Marv, keep 'em coming. What lathe is that?
 
Need a compound lock like yours Marv....except on the cross slide....I usally keep the compound tight, but that T bolt would work great on the cross.

Dave
 
Marv,
Lots of great ideas.
Thanks for sharing, especially the details on the DI mounts. I might have to "borrow" them.

 

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