Simple boiler housing

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SignalFailure

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This is a work-in-progress shot of the housing for my latest little 'pot boiler'. As I'm not working to any particular plans it's all done on the hoof using whatever suitable is to hand (and for this particular item that's not a lot!). The boiler has been used a few times already (I couldn't wait) hence the interesting colours ;D

The four uprights are mild steel angle (shelving supports) that someone donated with steel cross members at the top. The boiler sits on a 'stretcher' consisting of two 4mm steel rods. The rod and screw ends have yet to be cut off so it's looking rather agricultural at present! The boiler will be prevented from rolling over as the bushes will project through the top of the housing.

There's a half inch or so gap at the far end to accomodate a chimney. I realise that the angle will probably steal more heat than is ideal but at least it won't fall apart in my lifetime!

It'll be covered by brass sheet eventually, I think I have enough, so should look a little more polished in it's final form!

This is the third boiler I've made (including a vertical one with silvered soldered rivets and central firetube) and and in each case the housing has been more problematic than the shell itself. Maybe this'll give someone else ideas if they're struggling with a housing.

housing0.jpg
 
Hi Paul

I made my boiler housing from ally plate and lined it with insulation. It was my first boiler and like you I was making it up as I went along, worked out ok though. You can see it here if you go to a work in progress and look for A SMALL BOILER

Cheers

Rich
 
Rich, I've read through your thread many times ;) especially for the burner bit! What/where did you get insulation as we can't get asbestos sheet these days?!
 
Thanks Rich. Not used Macc models before but they seem to have had an overhaul recently and that stuff looks just the ticket... purchase ahoy!
 
Nicely executed Paul. That does in fact give me a couple of ideas to knock around the old noodle. What type of burner are you going to be using? Meths or dry tablets?

BC1
Jim
 
I'm going to make a meths burner as per firebird's thread - I'm sick of the smell of those tablets and the yuk they leave behind!
 
how is it attached or does it just rest on there. looks good
 
Yup it's just resting there - where the bushes poke through the (eventual) top will stop it moving back/forth or rotating. It will be able to move upwards by a tiny amount if thumped but I don't think that'll matter.
 
Getting there; silver soldered the frame together, cut the sheet to size, drilled the ventilation and bush holes, folded it up and temporarily fastened it together with some rather fetching insulation tape :big: Actually the tape isn't required as the sides hold the ends in place and the top holds the sides. Still, it'll have some nuts and bolts too 'ere long.

Placed a bit of copper toob on top to fantasize about chinmeys - this one is too small methinks.

bhousing.jpg


and looking up her skirt...

bhousing2.jpg


(The closeness of the photo makes it look rather curved)
 
Hi Paul

Nice one, thats coming along well :) :) :)

Sometimes the best way is to play around with different bits till you get one that looks right.

Cheers

Rich
 
Paul,

Very Nice :bow: The angle iron is a neat way of doing it.

Best Regards
Bob
 
Thanks chaps :) The bending went better than anticipated as I've never tried one of these two-way (corner) bends before.

For anyone attmpting cold bending for the first time a quick list of what I did might be of use:-

- Normalised the metal (0.75mm brass sheet) by heating to red then cooling naturally
- Marked out the position of the 4 bends and drilled a 1.5mm hole at each intersection
- Cut away the 4 marked out corner 'squares'
- Used wet-n-dry to put a small radius on a 8" or so piece of 3/4" steel
- Clamped the sheet in the vice between the above bending bar and a piece of softwood
- Hammered the sheet over using an aluminium block to spread the load and avoid marking

Actaully the block of alum. wasn't long enough to do the sides so I put a longer flat piece 'twixt it and the work to get the same effect.

All went well until I removed the piece from the vice for the last time and found that I'd dented/marked one of the completed bends with the vice screw. Grrrrrrrr! Wasn't too bad though - a bit of panel beating from the inside and some filing and sanding soon fixed it ;D


 
do you have any problems maintaining heat? as the housing I would of thought would act as a heat sink? I play with boilers in boats and although we do use brass bases at times we try to have minimum contact with it and use small feet or just the edge of a bearer so as to minimise the contact, we also tend to use gas as it can be control ed by a simple valve.

Peter
 
HS93 said:
do you have any problems maintaining heat?

I don't know Peter, I haven't fired it in this housing yet! The boiler itself doesn't contact the brass parts (except a tiny bit at the top) but I daresay the frame will absorb a fair bit of heat. It should be better than running it completely open as I have done in the recent past at least ;D
 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9362k16/=2euquk


1/16 inch thick rigid millboard insulation. Might be just right for the room you have around the inside.

Edit: Crap. I looked at it again and Mcmaster is shipping this via MOTOR FREIGHT! 40inches square and UPS can't handle it?


Bah humbug,
Kermit
 
You can get the insulation by places who sell << Fire Places for Indoors. >
like woodburning fire place.
Hilmar
 
Made some of the burner parts - the fuel reservoir with filler boss (need to make vent and fit the bottom cover!) and the burner support. I love silver-soldering - the fact that you can make all these strong joints with next-to-no material is uber-cool.

Most of the burner (like the boiler housing and 'Pug') has been made from scrap - the five bosses were made from short stubs of brass that've been sitting in the scrap box for ages ;D I did shell out for a metre of square section 'cold rolled steel' from the local DIY store though (thanks to Bearcar1 for suggesting that!).... should be enough to make at least 10 burners there!

I also ground a new HSS parting-off tool for the bosses - well being a 'tight wad' I actually re-ground some other tool that came in a set that I'm never likely to use (I think it was a screcutting tool). I have to say it worked brilliantly and a fraction of the price of those blade types!


After some Heath-Robinson experimentation with wicks I'm going to fit five very fine ones (about 3/32" diameter) as they should provide the right size flame and about 15-20 minutes worth of steam.

burnerp1.jpg

burnerp2.jpg
 

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