Sieg X2 motor-problem.. SOLVED

[lock-ed]

I have a Sieg X2 Mill, which has given me great pleasure.

After purchasing, I have added belt-drive and some cheap DRO. Also changed one of the bearings on the spindle, but have some fine tuning to go before the machine is deadon,- too much runout on the spindle.

However, there is another problem. Sometimes, the motor will not start when turning the button. Sometimes I will spend as much as 10 minutes before it starts. I have tried to clean/change the brushes, and also done some research on the net. It seems that the motor-controller might be the defective part. However, sometimes the motor will start and run just fine. On other occasions it will have hiccups, meaning varying RPM. But most of the times when it has started, it will run just fine.

From the other writeups on the net, I have found detailed instructions on how to perform tests to locate the faulty part. However, I have not been able to find documentation on a board identical to mine. If someone could offer a hint to where I could find specific information on my board, or how to test which components, that would be most appreciated. I have very limited skills on electronical devices, but have built my own transmitters, and similar, from kits.

The machine during maintenance(why do pictures rotate 90* during internet-travel ???)

The motor-controller

Thx in advance,
Ed

 

[QSPSB]

Take a look at these sites... I'm sure you will find an answer there.. I own an X2 I converted to a CNC mill and have yet to have a singe issue with it... If i were to guess I'dd say your pot is faulty!

http://www.hossmachine.info/
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop_machines/

 

[lock-ed]

Thank you, those are the places(among others I have been already. But the controllers they describe are slightly different from mine. Have also checked LMS trouble-shooting guide, and the info found here http://www.raynerd.co.uk/?p=567#respond

Still searching :
Ed

 

[metalmuncher]

Hi I have a seig XL1 I guess they are similar, I had that fault too and still have at times. What I did find out is that the fuse holder doesn't always make contact and will sometimes run slowly or not at all. I have gently bent the contacts inside the holder and replaced the fuse, most of the time it works ok. Hope this of some help.
Regards Metalmuncher.

 

[QSPSB]

O.K.

That last pic you put up is the power supply box components... If i'm correct you stated the speed control switch is whats wrong with it? correct me if I'm wrong!

You need to open the speed controll switch box and take a look at the Potentiometer.. check for a loose solder joint... If one is just a tad loose it will drop voltage and cause an issue... This can also make it go into fault mode.. Take a look at this schematic... This should point you in the right direction now..

Good luck

 

[jmshep]

I had a similar problem with my X2 and it was the potentiometer. When I replaced it I took the opportunity to fit a separate switch.
Now I can switch off quickly and return to the preset speed when I switch back on.

Regards

 

[lock-ed]

Thank you very much for your inputs!

I have already checked the potmeter for bad solderpoints, and it seems ok. Same with fusebox. But I will check them both further.

I might have understood, but according to info found elsewhere, I have pictured the "motor-controller-board" . This photo is titled"motor-controller-board", courtesy of LMS.

Thx again ;D
Ed

 

[chucketn]

That is exactly the controller I have, FC350BJ. I also have a belt drive conversion. I have had several issues with it, mostly minor ones. First problem I had was intermittent no start like you. I found loose wire terminal connections. Carefully tug on each wire in the screw terminal blocks.
Second issue was again intermittent no start. I found a broken lead on the coil L1 in the center of the board. I unsoldered the broken end to clear the pad, unwrapped 1 wrap of the coil and resoldered it to the board.
The third problem was intermittent cutting out of the motor that progressed to intermittent bursts of full speed. Then the speed control pot stopped controlling speed and the motor would run at full speed as soon as AC power was applied.
Using the LMS troubleshooting guide, I deduced the Mosfets were damaged. I ordered them from Newark Electronics. They were low enough in cost, that I ordered 2 pair for the Mill and a spare pair for my lathe, which has a similar controller.
At the moment I have adapted a 2.5 hp treadmill motor and controller to the mill, and if it works out to be better, I may leave it that way.
My problems were caused by the extreme vibration of trying to cut dovetails with a single insert dovetail cutter. Trying to rough out the dovetails and then finish them with a HHS 8 toothed dovetail cutter. Never again!

Chuck in E. TN

 

[Tin Falcon]

I have been thinking about moving the control board off the mill into the CNC control box . This would get it away from vibration I have also considered filling the column with epoxy granite composite.
An once of prevention ???
Tin

 

[one4stevo]

Hi everyone

I to have been having the exact same problems with my X2 (im so glade i found this topic, this problems been driving me nuts)

I have cheeked and done everything on this page except buy a new potentiometer which i might do in the coming days and of course buy a new motor controller board

Lock-ed How did you go with your x2 did you have to replace the board?

 

[lock-ed]

I have not had time to test everything yet.

Plan is to perform a test(measure voltage on some components) on the controller board, and also test potmeter and emergency switch thoroughly.

However, I am in the process of building a shed, and will postpone the work until I move the machine. It works(on and off) for now. It also needs a good tramming and the spindle needs some care. Runout is too great, and I suspect wrong tension to bearings.

Apart from all that, I really enjoy it 8)

And I must admit, I am looking at this every day, https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009081504081375&item=11-2269&catname=electric and considering to order it ???

Hope you solve your problem, and share it with us here.

Ed

 

[winklmj]

If you're in the US, instead of a $72 board I would hunt on ebay for a kblc-19pm board as mentioned here:

http://szabaga.com/x2/power/

FWIW, my X2 has intermittent start problems too. I suspect the POT more than anything. Usually turning it off and back on will get it going. I've got one of the KBLC boards and a new POT but have been too lazy to swap them.

 

[lazylathe]

I had the same problem!
Luckily mine was still under warranty and they sent out a new board for replacement.

The only way i could get mine to start was by spinning the tool mounted in the mill.
That would get it going easily.

But a board replacement sorted it out!

Andrew

 

[lock-ed]

winklmj: Is that board compatible with 230V we have in Norway? Looks very promising, and modifications within capabilities. (I can get it from US, no problem).

To all you others, thanks for your inputs, and it seems more people than me appreciate it :bow:

Thx again,
Ed

 

[hobby]

Had the same problems with my micromill, controller,
went through 2 boards, from LMS, and a replacement under warranty from HF.
3 boarsds in all.

After I convdrted it to belt pulley drive, I decided to do away with microcontrollers altogether, and made a simple 3 transformer power supply, with a bridge rectifier and filter capacitor, to change speeds, I use a rotary switch which switches in or out the taps on each transformer to increase the AC power which in turn causes a DC voltage change at the rectifier output.

It works fine, the only drawback is there is no torque controle, as with microcontrollers. This is what people frown at, with this design, lack of power under heavy loads, but with the proper cutters and drills and speeds and feeds, this can be worked around easily.

 

[winklmj]

winklmj: Is that board compatible with 230V we have in Norway? Looks very promising, and modifications within capabilities. (I can get it from US, no problem).

That particular board is a 110V version. KB makes 220V versions as well--just might be a bit harder to find.

KBIC-240 is the 240 volt version. But at that voltage it puts out up to 180V DC and that would not be too good for your X2 motor which is only rated up to 130V DC.

 

[lock-ed]

Too bad, but thx anyway for the information.

Are you absolutely certain the motor cannot handle 230V, when it is the 230-version?

Anyway, will check out all the other things, but it seems that the card is the real problem

Ed

 

[duffer]

Too bad, but thx anyway for the information.

Are you absolutely certain the motor cannot handle 230V, when it is the 230-version?

Anyway, will check out all the other things, but it seems that the card is the real problem

Ed

Did you get any further with this problem, lock-ed?

I also have an X2 that has exactly the same symptoms (almost from new!).

I managed to get a new pcb from the suppliers but have not used the machine for about 18 months and only swapped over the pcb's today. Still have exactly the same problem as before, which is leading me to think it may be the potentiometer...grrrrr!?

John

 

[Tin Falcon]

Still have exactly the same problem as before, which is leading me to think it may be the potentiometer...grrrrr!?

Well look on the bright side you have a spare board and a pot is a cheap fix you should be able to get on from the local radio shack . or order one from littlemachineshop.com

I too had the boards yes plural go out on the mini mill and lathe same time apparent power surge. fortunately at the time myself and the other tech at work were able to troubleshoot and fix them for less than $10 each.
Tin

 

[lock-ed]

Duffer,
sorry for the late reply.
But no, I haven't had time to check it. I have spent all my time lately making a new workshop, and have had no time to look at the mill. It still works intermittently.
The points I will look at are: PCB, potmeter and emergency stop.
Good luck with your problems, and please post your results.
Rgds,
Ed