Rudy Kouhoupt Striling engine

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Keep after it Gordon, you just made a big leap. If you haven't yet, try adding a gasket between the hot cap and cool end. This will not only help insulate, but will help seal that area against any possible leaks as well.

Bill
 
Finally have the thing running with an alcohol burner. It takes quite a while to get up to heat but I can speed that up with a butane torch. Once running it runs fine but after about 5 minutes it stops because the heat differential is too small. The aluminum heat fins are hot enough to sizzle if I put a wet cloth on them. I am going to look for a different design and try something different on a Stirling.
 
Glad to see you are making progress Gordon. You might want to check out some of Jerry Howell's stirling designs at www. jerry-howell.com. I have built a few of his and they perform well. You should also check here: http://ridders.nu/. Jan has a lot of designs and I am sure many of then have been chronicled here within the pages of HMEM.

Regards,
Bill
 
Well done Gordon, at least it is running and you and demonstrate it to anyone who comes close enough.

Jim
 
Hello all,
I built one of Jerry Howell's engines several years ago.

To get mine to run I had to

-machine the fins as close to the stainless liner as possible.
-loosen everything off
-machine the hot cap as thin as possible
-I used insulation between hot and cold end

Also have you had a play with the theory side of things? Schmidt Theory enables you to calculate the area between a closed pressure volume curve.

http://www.bekkoame.ne.jp/~khirata/academic/schmidt/schmidt.htm

Kevin
Jersey
Channel Islands
 
Hi everyone
I have been following this thread with great interest, my grandson recently built one and it took a lot of fiddling to get a result.
Also
I am sure that most of you may know this info already; Great book full of plans, formulae and advice.
Stirling and hot air engines by Roy Darlington and Keith Strong isbn 1 86126 688 x
Also try
www.stirlingengineer.com

Thanks to all
Bob
:)
 

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