Repair worn ways
- Thread starter gartof
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
If your ways are worn you'll need to remove material to restore them. Most beds have at least a couple of 'regrinds' in them, you can either find someone with a surface or slideway grinder of sufficient size, or hand scrape the bed in (possibly after having the worst of the wear machined away on a mill or planer). Then you use moglice (epoxy-like) or turcite (comes in sheets) to build up the bottom of the saddle so the tool height is the same as before, and scrape it to match the bed.
I have used mills were they just Devcon WR-2 the mills work great.
On own lathe I just scraped the bedway if a lot of wear under the carriage I would used Devcon WR-2.
https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/08ea94fd/files/uploaded/Devcon Product Guide.pdf
Dave
There lot places I would not use epoxy
But place to use epoxy is under bedway.
On own lathe I just scraped the bedway if a lot of wear under the carriage I would used Devcon WR-2.
https://irp-cdn.multiscreensite.com/08ea94fd/files/uploaded/Devcon Product Guide.pdf
Dave
There lot places I would not use epoxy
But place to use epoxy is under bedway.
Last edited:
Others have already names the usual commercial products for your application.
Folks often refer to Moglice as a single material, there are actually quite a few formulations from the vendor, as well as several vendors.
There are several shop made formulations floating around. Most are based on a hard setting epoxy with molybdenum disulfide powder added to the desired thickness. That's the common base, then some folks add bronze powder, various forms of PFTE, and / or graphite powder. All readily available from Amazon. Marine supply places and hardware stores near large bodies of water typically have West System or other name brand vendor epoxy in larger quantities so you don't spend tons of money on small volume containers. These epoxies also tend to have nice working lives, and don't fire off as fast when mixed in larger volumes. I used JB Weld and graphite powder to recast the half nuts on an old SB13, it worked fine for the several years I had the lathe.
You can dam all the areas where epoxy can run out and cast in place, or thicken to the point of being epoxy putty and avoid much of the issues with using a liquid. All depends on the situation, odds are a more liquid application keys to the surface better at the cost of keeping it in place as it cures. Stefan Gotteswinter has a good video about his use of similar material to tram a mill column.
Stan
Folks often refer to Moglice as a single material, there are actually quite a few formulations from the vendor, as well as several vendors.
There are several shop made formulations floating around. Most are based on a hard setting epoxy with molybdenum disulfide powder added to the desired thickness. That's the common base, then some folks add bronze powder, various forms of PFTE, and / or graphite powder. All readily available from Amazon. Marine supply places and hardware stores near large bodies of water typically have West System or other name brand vendor epoxy in larger quantities so you don't spend tons of money on small volume containers. These epoxies also tend to have nice working lives, and don't fire off as fast when mixed in larger volumes. I used JB Weld and graphite powder to recast the half nuts on an old SB13, it worked fine for the several years I had the lathe.
You can dam all the areas where epoxy can run out and cast in place, or thicken to the point of being epoxy putty and avoid much of the issues with using a liquid. All depends on the situation, odds are a more liquid application keys to the surface better at the cost of keeping it in place as it cures. Stefan Gotteswinter has a good video about his use of similar material to tram a mill column.
Stan
