QCTP Drill Chuck

[1hand]

Nobody laugh to hard, but I had an idea to make a toolholder that would hold a drill chuck. This would be able to be zeroed to the center with the cnc dro, and drilling operations could then be done under powerfeed/cnc control. Which would also allow to use Z axis dro for drill depth measurements.

Is it possible??

Matt

 

[Foozer]

Nobody laugh to hard, but I had an idea to make a toolholder that would hold a drill chuck. This would be able to be zeroed to the center with the cnc dro, and drilling operations could then be done under powerfeed/cnc control. Which would also allow to use Z axis dro for drill depth measurements.

Is it possible??

Matt

Dont know about possible but sure sounds like a Peck Drill prospect. A lot better than in 1 out 1, in 2 out 2, . . . in 36 out 36 through manual hand-wheel turning.

Robert

 

[Tin Falcon]

if it was a crazy Idea Aloris would not be making morse taper tool holders.

tin

 

[Twmaster]

All you'd need to do is make a straight shank for a drill chuck to the size of your boring bar holder.

 

[1hand]

All you'd need to do is make a straight shank for a drill chuck to the size of your boring bar holder.

Working on it. Thm:



I think I'll still try to use the tailstock for center drilling though. I also think this will be limited to 1/4" and smaller drills, but we'll see.


You guys know any good bulk drill bit suppliers? :big:

Matt

 

[1hand]

I think this would work to line everything up.....

I think I can put a rod in the tailstock and I can run the tool holder
parallel to that reference to make the drill straight with the center line
of the part. I also think that if I put a dead center in the tailstock, I
can line up the drill chuck to be centered on the X axis if I run the center
into a center drilled hole on the back of the shaft holding the chuck

 

[Foozer]

Just a wild toss out,

A piece of round stock that fits well in the tool holder length less than the max distance of dead centers spindle - tailstock. Points on each end of tool holder stock aligned to dead centers and then hopefully the tool holder is inline. Should be an infield. An on the spot method needs more talent than I have.

Would like to see how what your calling for can be done "spot on" as they say. I don't have the indicators to do it hence the backwoods approach.

Robert

 

[1hand]

Just a wild toss out,

A piece of round stock that fits well in the tool holder length less than the max distance of dead centers spindle - tailstock. Points on each end of tool holder stock aligned to dead centers and then hopefully the tool holder is inline. Should be an infield. An on the spot method needs more talent than I have.

Would like to see how what your calling for can be done "spot on" as they say. I don't have the indicators to do it hence the backwoods approach.

Robert

I agree, Once the tool post is parallel to the center line, which can be done with a test indicator in the tail stock, and run it along the side of the QCTP. Then I could use my coaxial indicator in the chuck of the QCTP to fine center of a collet in the headstock. About as spot on as I would know how to get it. scratch.gif

Matt

 

[mzetati]

All you'd need to do is make a straight shank for a drill chuck to the size of your boring bar holder.

And what about the "Q" in the QCTP acronym?
(Please, do not ask how many hours of precious homeworkshop time I've spent into making them...)

As for aligning the bit in the QCTP chuck, I usually center drill with a bit held into the TS and then put a tiny bit into the QCTP one, correcting its Y position and alignment till I can see no flex into the bit itself. (Must add I usually make use of that chuck to hold drill bits in the 10/20mm range to speed up metal removal, before boring to size, so eventual small errors would be corrected by the subseqent operations)

Marcello

 

[mzetati]

If I were to align the bit in the QCTP chuck with the lathe axis to a good degree of accuracy, I'd chuck a portion of straight drill rod of the closest size and apply a DTI to that one, moving the carriage left and righ to ensure there are no movements of the DTI needle. Would that not correct eventual errors in the chuck itself, too?

Marcello

 

[1hand]

Is Aluminum a suitable material to make a bushing for the boring bar toolholder?

Matt

 

[Tin Falcon]

go for the gusto and make one of these !!

http://www.artcotools.com/8-position-tool-holder-pr-16909.html

No drill chuck needed just bushings to hold your bits.

Tin

 

[mzetati]

Is Aluminum a suitable material to make a bushing for the boring bar toolholder?

Matt

Matt,
I suppose steel would be a better choice, but I had very little of it, and plenty of aluminium cutoffs.
I noticed a few drawbacks in my al. toolholders in general, and into the toolbar holders in particular.

a) I cannot overtighten the holding screws, especially on the toolholders with the largest slots, because the holder would flex a little, but enough to prevent insertion into the QCTP dovetails. I should have made them fitting some more freely . Not much a problem, anyway: there's no point into overtightening those screws.

b) toolbar holders, once closed, stay closed. I mean, I release the screws and they do not spring open. Solution came through straightening that badly hacksawed slot I had made to allow the insertion of a spare feeler gage of adequate thickness: removing the screws from the top, and inserting one or two of them from the bottom let me push it open again.

c?) never tried a parting tool holder of conventional design made with that al., somehow I did not trust it. All my parting tool holders either have a screwed on cover, or have the blade inserted into a T slot (see the picture I sent on my previous post, they're the 2nd and tyhe fourth from the right, in the top line). Maybe I'm overconcerned, but better safe than sorry.

Marcello

 

[1hand]

Not as fancy as some, but will work none the less.

Matt

 

[kennyd]

Not cheap, but Aloris does make one: http://www.drillspot.com/products/5...axa-35_dovetail_drill_chuck_holder_toolholder