Power Feed For My SX3 Mill

[wm460]

I saw this you tube video on another forum, i like the idea very much, but being electronically challenged, I was wondering if any one would be able to give me a wiring diagram.

Would this motor be powerful enough for a Seig SX3 long table?
http://metalworkforums.com/redirect-to/?redirect=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqsDeCkhYIs

Also has any one made a power feed for their Z axis, if so what size motor did you use?

Thanks,

Mark.

 

[dnalot]

Hi

I have the sx3 with a power feed for the X axis but I hardly ever use it. A powered Z axis would be great if it was only for rapid transit.

Mark T

 

[Wizard69]

I saw this you tube video on another forum, i like the idea very much, but being electronically challenged, I was wondering if any one would be able to give me a wiring diagram.

I can't help because I'm not sure what the guy used there.

Would this motor be powerful enough for a Seig SX3 long table?

http://metalworkforums.com/redirect-to/?redirect=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqsDeCkhYIs

There is not enough info to say, neither about the motor or the effort required to drive this mill table. In any event I wouldn't take this path, instead I would install a stepper based system with the intent that it would be used latter for a CNC upgrade. If you aren't electrically inclined this would likely not be a good path for you.

Also has any one made a power feed for their Z axis, if so what size motor did you use?



Thanks,



Mark.

You mean X axis right? The axis that slews the table right and left.

Honestly I don't have a home mill yet. However My experience at work is that once you have one you won't go back. A good drive does wonders for finish and tool wear.

Your best bet is to contact the guy that did the video. He should be able to describe performance and parts used.

 

[wm460]

Hi

I have the sx3 with a power feed for the X axis but I hardly ever use it. A powered Z axis would be great if it was only for rapid transit.

Mark T[/QUOTE]

I am after the X axis so I can get a good finish, and the Z axis because of a shoulder injury.

 

[wm460]

In any event I wouldn't take this path, instead I would install a stepper based system with the intent that it would be used latter for a CNC upgrade. If you aren't electrically inclined this would likely not be a good path for you.

I am electronically challenged, But have a nephew that is a electrician that comes around and does a few jobs for me, Is this something he can do?

You mean X axis right? The axis that slews the table right and left.

I want to do both the X and the Z axis

Your best bet is to contact the guy that did the video. He should be able to describe performance and parts used.

I PMed him on the forum but know reply, a friend of mine also tried contacting with same results.

 

[geeb]

I went straight to CNC with mine using a CNCFusion kit. That's been terrific. Recently added a 4th axis

 

[RonGinger]

I have a grizzly G0704 mill and I made a power feed for the Z axis- it would be a real pain to use that machine without it since the Z crank is at the top of the column. I used a stepper motor to turn it and an Arduino control. I have electronic limit switches in both directions- if I run it up to my limit, then press a button it sets a limit at that point and turns on an LED. I can run back down, then if I just hold the up button it will stop at the limit point.

 

[purpleknif]

I hacked a 12 volt drill for my X axis and would like to do the same for my Z . They work great. Gobs of torque and a built in clutch.

 

[ShopShoe]

RonGinger,

I have the X3 (Grizzly G0463) and am contemplating the same mods as the OP. I also have a shoulder issue and cranking up the head for tool changes and hopping over clamps is a tiresome task.

I am slowly investigating the arduino-controlled stepper on a rotary table and think this single-function type of control may be where I'm headed as I'm learning, as money eventually controls how fast I can progress.

What size stepper motor would be required to raise the head? Would the Polulu driver board be enough to control that size motor, or would I be headed in a different direction. I may be headed to CNC eventually, but I foresee a lot of other projects before I get there. I may also be making some other changes in my life and I don't want (and can't afford) to just go out and buy everything all at once.

--ShopShoe

 

[RonGinger]

The G0704 is a pretty big head so I used about a 600 in-oz stepper. I did a belt drive and modified the back of the hand crank so I could keep the crank on. I used a KL5040 (I think) driver. I do not think the polulu driver would be enough- the motor needs at least 3 amps. I will try to post a thread on this after I get back from the CNC workshop- it has been taking all my time.

 

[Wizard69]

I am electronically challenged, But have a nephew that is a electrician that comes around and does a few jobs for me, Is this something he can do?

You will have to ask him, electricians come with a wide array of skill sets. Some are master pipe benders others are fantastic controls technicians. If he has any hobbies involving electronics he might be your guy.

I want to do both the X and the Z axis

If this is the case, but would be even more inclined toward the use of steppers so that it will be easy to go CNC in the future. Do realize though that this is a big step up from a simple DC drive. You will need to supply drives for the steppers and some sort of controller or pulse generator.

On the other hand steppers might be the right choice for the Z because they have holding toque something you won't get with a simple DC drive.

I PMed him on the forum but know reply, a friend of mine also tried contacting with same results.

Well that sucks! He probably wants to avoid being a support person.

In any event I'd start searching the net for examples of DIY axis drives. There are a number of projects all using different approaches.

 

[Wizard69]

The important thing to realize about steppers is that they have holding torque even when not in motion. This makes them great for Z axis applications where you don't want the axis to drift due to cutting forces, gravity or phases of the moon. The trick of course is proper sizing torque wise. Since I don't have one of the mills being discussed and never ran the calculations, I might suggest checking one of the CNC forums where a bunch of DIY mill upgrades of this type have been done.

Oversizing a stepper might not be a big issue in this simple application but it does add expenses as everything needs to be larger. If you want more info on stepper control check out the web sites the drives and motor manufactures have. Lots of information is on the net free for the reading these days.

If one goes with a micro controller for a step generator you are then free to program the thing anyway you like. For example peck cycles might come in handy on the Z axis. There is a lot of potential before you even get to CNC. A micro controller isn't required though as guys have used 555 timer circuits and have been happy with the results.

The other thing to consider guys is the operator station. If you are going this route to overcome a handy cap then thoughts about how you will operate these steppers are in order. A nicely laid out pendant can make for easy operation. Controls like are seen in the early link for the X aren't bad though in this case he is probably catching a lot of chips. For the Z axis though it would be a terrible idea as you still need to reach up to do anything with the axis. In other words a nice operator interface can make things much nicer.

 

[wm460]

Thanks for your replies, the stepper units idea will give me a lot of reading and thinking.

 

[rodw]

Thanks for your replies, the stepper units idea will give me a lot of reading and thinking.

Just a heads up, my Arduino Stepper controller for Rotary tables also has a Linear mode which I designed with powering a table feed on my SX3 mill in mind.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=25091

All you have to do is to define a new device under setup and define it as linear one. You can swap between a linear one and a rotary table as required.

My plan was to embed a 48 volt power supply in the SX3 somewhere and use it to power the control box. Another unfinished project... One day I'll retire and catch up with these. I also want to stick a stepper on the quill of my lathe for high speed repetitive drilling of plastic parts.

It would be very easy to mount a power feed to the SX3 as the mounting bolts and slotted shaft are already in place. Also the SX3 Handwheel is designed to be disengaged when running under power.

I wanted to incorporate a 24 volt clutch into the drive so turning off the power would disengage the stepper shaft so there was no resistance when turning the handwheel.

It would be very cool to see someone pick up this and run with it as a linear controller given what Scott achieved with the rotary controller side of my hardware.

 

[tornitore45]

I have a X3 (Grizzly G0463)
I motorized the Z axis (Up/Down) with a 12V drill motor and reducer.
I did not think that tiny motor would last long but has being going for 6 years and I am not shy on using it extensively. I avoid extending the quill as much as I can.

The drill chuck is replaced with a 1.25" pulley.
A grove is cut on the periphery of the original crank wheel.
A polyflex slack belt is used to transfer motion.
A idler pulley mounted on a lever acts as belt tightener and as clutch.
I can still crank the wheel manually without any drag.
The lever arm pivot is provided with friction by an arrangement of washers metal and rubber so it stays put in a neutral position.

The motor takes 8A when lifting the head, that is 96W meaning the mechanical power is in the range of 1/8 HP.

After measuring the head travel speed, and run a few calculations, I concluded that the power is all used to overcome friction rather than lifting the head, in fact the down speed is nearly the same as the lifting speed.

I am powering from a 65A regulated supply because I have it. It needs to have such high output because the surge would otherwise trip the over-current protection. A simple 75W transformer and a bridge would be better because it does not suffer from overload and may give a softer start.