OLD Tool, still using it.

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Philipintexas

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I made this tap-wrench in High-School shop class in Baltimore Md. in 1958. I still use it because it's the perfect length to swing in my lathe and it clears the column in the Mill-Drill, and it gives enough leverage for anything I make.
I can't remember the grade I got on it but I'd probably give it a C-. After 33 years working in a retail Org. with computers I finally retired and can get back to making stuff that lasts.

PICT5169.jpg
 
I made this tap-wrench in High-School shop class in Baltimore Md. in 1958. I still use it because it's the perfect length to swing in my lathe and it clears the column in the Mill-Drill, and it gives enough leverage for anything I make.
I can't remember the grade I got on it but I'd probably give it a C-. After 33 years working in a retail Org. with computers I finally retired and can get back to making stuff that lasts.

I wasn't even born yet, it would be another 10 years (1968 ) before I popped out into the world.


I'd give that tool an A+
 
I'd give it A+. Still looking great after all these years.
 
Hi nice work.I have the same model but a bought one.I also made a few basic one with sqare holes in a shaped bar.Still have them but use your type all the time
 
I made this tap-wrench in High-School shop class in Baltimore Md. in 1958.

Phil, you should have no qualms about being proud of that tool! Proof of quality is that it's still in use! Definitely an A+.
I would love to have the plans to make that if they are available.

Chuck
 
The plans are probably stashed away in the basement of Baltimore City College covered in dust. I can tell you it requires a left hand tap and die. I can make a rough drawing that would give enough info to complete one. Just let me know if you want it.
 
The plans are probably stashed away in the basement of Baltimore City College covered in dust. I can tell you it requires a left hand tap and die. I can make a rough drawing that would give enough info to complete one. Just let me know if you want it.

Don't have any left hand dies, or tap smaller than 1/2" 20 tpi, but can single point LH. What size? A sketch with critical dimensions would be great, when you have the time. No rush, have a couple of engines(steam) in process at the moment. A buddy and I made aluminum castings and I'm just cleaning them up. A marine twin from an old book,and a single from Popular Science.
 
I like it. id give it an A+. wish we had machine shop in high school. I graduated in '92 and the best we had was in jr high shop class we got to rebuild some lawn mower motors (assuming you could bring one) ,drafting and woodworking. I learned so much about small engines in that class. but that was the last year I believe there was any shop class. no teaching children how to work with wood, mechanics, read plans and so many other valuable lessons I learned. and that was in the 8th grade.

how did you do the rectangle opening in the middle of the wrench for the jaws to fit in? mill it out and file the ends flat or something?

anyway, compliments on your tap wrench. id like to have one.
 
"how did you do the rectangle opening in the middle of the wrench for the jaws to fit in? mill it out and file the ends flat or something?"

Well, It's been 57 years, and I haven't even given it a thought.... I don't remember how I did it! I do remember using a "Shaper" for some of it but I doubt anyone has one of those any more. I probably drilled the corners and used a hack-saw and files to clean them up. They did stress hand-tools a lot.

I was fortunate in high-school to be able to take classes in metal shop, wood shop, mechanical/architectural drawing, welding, even cutting & polishing gemstones.

Turns out I used those subjects all my life. Now days they only stress college prep subjects and assume no one will work with their hands. I drew my own house plans, built three houses and have used the other subjects throughout my life.
 
I made a similar one the rectangle is drilled and filed
The hard part with this design is a LH and RH thread on the adjusting bar
The one i made you make a full size rectangle to fit the hole nice and tight
then drill two holes lengthwise half and half.Finish the moving jaw to size
fit 2 dowel pins so the jaw slides.thread the adjusting bar and capture
in the the jaw just like a mill vise handle.Dont know which way is easiest
Just as a matter of interest you can still buy your design,not expensive
and you can save these effort for some other item
 
First, I need to apologize to my Mech. Drawing teacher, he's probably turning in his grave. Not my best work but I hope it conveys the basics. NOT TO SCALE!

The large piece was turned to the large diameter (1.250"), the smaller diameters stepped down and then the full-diameter center milled on both sides to leave the .525 thickness. Handles have a knurl and it's wise to leave some extra material to support the end with a center for the knurling operation, and cut to finished length afterward.

Today, I'd make the center section and thread the left hand handle into it to save material.

The fixed jaw fits the "window" snugly and is held in place by a set-screw. (It has to be removed to assemble the movable jaw).

The movable jaw has a LEFT-hand thread as well as the internal hole in the removable handle. As the R. handle is threaded into the main body, the left-hand threads on the movable jaw push it toward the fixed jaw holding the tap.
Be prepared to do some fitting to get these parts working properly.

Fortunately the photos don't show my wonky threads....

As with any tool, there are cheap versions available, but this project offers some interesting operations, and produces a usable tool.

Tap Wrench1.jpg


Drawing.jpg
 
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Nice,i like the idea of making it in one piece.I always thought of 2 handles and a centre piece but your method is much better.I dont like having LH threads
Taps and Dies are too expensive and single point in the lathe for small threads is not easy
 
Some of the cheap ones available are cast iron, drop them and they break. I still use the only one I ever bought in 1970, steel body.

Paul.
 
I made a similar one the rectangle is drilled and filed

The hard part with this design is a LH and RH thread on the adjusting bar

The one i made you make a full size rectangle to fit the hole nice and tight

then drill two holes lengthwise half and half.Finish the moving jaw to size

fit 2 dowel pins so the jaw slides.thread the adjusting bar and capture

in the the jaw just like a mill vise handle.Dont know which way is easiest

Just as a matter of interest you can still buy your design,not expensive

and you can save these effort for some other item


It is a good project to learn on though. Buying is expensive not just for the tool but you don't want to be learning the basics on an expensive project piece.

As for the issue of shop classes that everyone has discussed above, you guys should try working with "new hires" these days. One of the guys I've worked with for years was discussing the state of skills that we are seeing in new hires to the shop. It is really pathetic actually. A basic skill like drilling and tapping a hole, or installing a helicoil/timesert is beyond them. Like many here I learned much in high school and a lot more in fathers garage. Apparently those sorts of classes don't exist in most high schools anymore.

Sadly it is so bad right now in industry that I actually wish that I could retire. There seems to be zero interests in trades and manual work these days.
 
Phillipintexas thanks for the sketch!

As for making it one piece or not, some might want to consider making it one piece and enlarging the handles. In my case the reason would be to make the tool easier to handle with old stiff hands that aren't what they use to be. I've just recently have started to notice problems with stiffness I the hands. I hope it isn't arthritis but I already have a preference for tools with larger handles.
 
I also have an old tool, and I'm still using it.--Not nearly as much as I did when it was a younger tool though----
 
Don't bother with a photo of that tool Brian. :D
 

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