Moriya Stirling Fan build

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techonehundred

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Ok, Here is a total Newbie, both for machining and posting. I am starting on a Moriya Stirling Fan. Right now I am working on the first three parts.
DSCF2260.jpg

On the Hot end, I used round stock because I do not have a 4 jaw chuck for my Select 10" lathe yet. :hDe: I have only had it a couple of months so I have a list of accessories I need to get. But what did I expect for $250. But I digress.
DSCF2249.jpg

So I made a square clamp to hold it in place on the engine. I am trying to make all of the pieces before I drill the bolt holes, so they will line up. The biggest challenge so far has been the upper cold side of the cylinder. My aluminum would catch and break my 1/16" cutoff tool when it was stuck out 3/4". Maybe I am just not patient enough.
But it is done for the most part now.
I have one question for anyone who has done this. Did you use asbestos for the gasket between the hot end and the base? If so, where did you get it. If not, what did you use?
You will have to be patient with me, because I go slow, so there will probably not be daily new pictures added, but we will see.
 
Hi, and welcome to the forum. One of my first projects was a Moriya fan. I built it without a four jaw chuck, by making a piece or two as a build up of parts brazed together. I was totally new to machining at the time, and it took a few months for me to get it done. I'm thrilled with mine, and I'm sure you will be too.

Did you say your lathe cost $250, and if it did ,WOW what a bargain!

Please continue posting you progress while building Moriya, and if you need an help let us know. Were here to help. :)

Edit; I used Mr. Gasket 1/16" asbestos gasket sheet. I just went to check down in the shop. It was some N.O.S. I had left over from the 60's or 70's. If I recall I used 2 or 3 layers. There is a thicker hard synthetic (looks like thick light blue or light green linoleum) that works great from what I've heard, but I can't recall the name of the product. I'm sure some one on the forum can provide the name and source.

-MB
 
Welcome to the forum techonehundred.

Looking forward to seeing more.
 
If you poke in my Small Sterling Fan thread, there's a bit on the insulator I used. The available exhaust gasket material was a PITA since it had an internal wire mesh and was impossible to cut neatly, but somewhat better than Fiberfrax which broke up and went everywhere.

 
A suggestion for gasket material.

My Father and I used to do small-engine work (mowers, tractors, etc.) and we would order sets of the most common gaskets used. The crankcase gaskets on these small engines were one piece with a sizable hole blanked out of the center. We used to get these blanks from time to time to use as odd gasket material.

Perhaps a small engine shop in the neighborhood would have some of these blanks around? I know we used to get them cheap (basically waste material).

These gaskets were a thin paper-like material, easy to work with. I used it for the hot-cap gasket in my Moriya fan, hoping it would withstand the heat. So far, it's held up fine for almost ten years.

Kevin
 
Thanks for the advice. Joeby, I had also thought about using gasket material and that is probably what I do.
Shred, Yes, yours looks good. I will probably build a die to cut the material and try that.

Butcher, yes I did get the lathe for a bargain, they even through in some bed wear to go with it. It was missing a few minor accessories mainly the entire half-nut assembly. Will probably be a build for the modification section.

Anyway, yesterday turned into family day and we went to see if the hills nearby had snow so that we could fall down them. They even loaned us wooden planks to hit us on the head when we fell. Rof} So, no shop yesterday.

Today I got a couple hours in after work and started to work on the displacer piston.
I was able to finish the body
DSCF2267.jpg

and the bottom cap
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Things were going real well until I got greedy on the upper cap.
DSCF2269.jpg

I broke my only 1/8" trepanning lathe tool trying to dig out the 5/8" groove. :redface2:
Decided it was enough for today, will grind a new tool and try again tomorrow.
 
Nice work techonehundred. I like stirlings, you will be hooked when you get it running. The lathe does look the bargain of the century at that price!

Nick
 
techonehundred said:
Anyway, yesterday turned into family day and we went to see if the hills nearby had snow so that we could fall down them. They even loaned us wooden planks to hit us on the head when we fell.

Mmmm...falling down snowy hills with planks... I used to LIVE to do that! So much so that I bought my own planks. Several times. ;D
 
Thanks for all the encouragement. Right now I am waiting for some supplies. local Ace didn't have 5-40 taps and dies. I was going to use what I had, but after looking at Machinery's and seeing that the clearance size was so close to 1/8" and I need all the help I can get to make it straight. :hDe:
In the mean time I did finish the displacer piston(Ok, I still have to thread it details, details). I forgot to take a picture of the top cap before it was pressed together, but here is a picture of the displacer.
DSCF2279.jpg


I know that this is old had for most of the people on this forum(it is really easy to impress a newbie!!!), but here is how I solved one of my problems with this build. When I was working on the hot end of the cylinder, I was really wondering how I was going to hold the hot end and get everything measured right. It was easy enough to bore out the inside(aside from the work to get the flat bottom). But I also wanted to be able to face off the bottom last. I also do not have a collet chuck for the lathe, so I was perusing a magazine and saw a blind expanding mandrel. This was very easy to build and it works great. It is nothing more than a tapered end pulled into the mandrel with a bolt for expansion. Both pieces are crs and I cut the slots with a hack saw. I did not have it slip once. Here is a couple of pictures of it.
DSCF2274.jpg

The tapered expansion device
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Here it is holding the Hot end
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And, since I did not have a 4 Jaw chuck, I also used it to cut the cooling fins on the cold end. They were cut with a 1/16" parting tool, or should I say tools? scratch.gif
DSCF2278.jpg

Hope this is as helpful to someone out there as it was to me. Tomorrow is Friday. Time to open the shop.

Anthony

 
techonehundred,

Lookin good. I like the backdrop too

Tony
 
Well the last couple of days I was able to spend a little time in the shop. I turned out the top gland bushing and roughed out the top cap.
DSCF2297.jpg

I also started on the crankshaft. Since I have a local Surplus store, I had some bearings on hand that were 5/16" id. I sized the disks to 1.5" and parted them off only to find out I forgot to drill out the center holes. :Doh: Oh well, I needed more practice centering on my milling machine.
DSCF2292.jpg

Once I had the center holes reamed to size, I stacked two to drill the hole for the crank pin. I also pinned them together with a piece of the drill rod I was going to use for the crank.
DSCF2294.jpg

and here is the center part test assembled together with the bearings.
DSCF2295.jpg




Now that I have it together, I guess I need to learn to silver solder it. I also have a few questions. How much space is needed for the solder to flow into the joint? Do I need to use high temp solder?

On another subject, Do I need to balance the crankshaft with the piston and displacer? I don't see it done in the plans, but was curious if anyone has tried with any kind of success.

 
One year and one week later. I now have an actual test run. I have worked to seal all of the air leaks and loosen up tight spots. I had almost given up on seeing this one do anything. Tonight I at least got something. I have more work to make it run better, but I can say that I saw it run. After you watch this, you can say you saw it run too. ;D
http://www.youtube.com/v/qNqenogjYl4?fs=1&hl=en_US
 

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