Lathe
- Thread starter mike4517
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Mike, I'm no expert but imho opinion any piece of machinery should we well secured so I would say yes bolt it down. My little 9x20, bolted to it's stand is quite weighty, but it's top heavy so it would be possible for it to overbalance, if I stalled it doing something silly I'm sure some instability could occur, so it's bolted to the floor. That still meant it could vibrate a bit so I've also fastened both sides of the stand (near the top) back to the wall with brackets. Having said that yours looks to have a lot more mass so bolting it down is probably all that's required.
As for level, I think that's a bonus, but I believe the main concern though is to make sure there is no twist in the bed.
hth
Dave
As for level, I think that's a bonus, but I believe the main concern though is to make sure there is no twist in the bed.
hth
Dave
Alphawolf45
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2008
- Messages
- 122
- Reaction score
- 0
A lathe has to be leveled so that there is no twist in the bed. Bolting a lathe down is optional..None of my machines is bolted to the floor. I rather be able to move a machine to new location.. I have re-arranged my shop layout many times as I get yet another machine and try to fit it in and get organized..I'd advise you to pass on the bolts at least until you have used the lathe for a while and know for certain that its location will suit you for good longtime.
Hi Mike,
My view on the two points that you raise:
Level: Nothing magic about level except it is the easiest angle to reproduce.
I have an engineer's level (ex ebay) which is not the best, but it is graduated in units of 0.1mm/metre (i.e. one part in 10000) and can be interpolated between marks to about 1/5 of a division for comparison purposes.
That means that if I have some work a couple of inches long to set-up, I can get better accuracy using the level than using my DTI - and it is quicker.
Also - it is handy to have at least one reliable level surface in the workshop.
Bolting down: I agree with Dave. All machines creep with time if you do not secure them. The guidance for installing lathes includes the correct bolting down procedures to prevent distortion of the bed and to correct any residual errors due to any inherent twist in the bed - this is why all machines have a securing point at each corner rather than a three point mounting which, while ensuring balance, does not enable compensation for twist.
You should always bolt down precision machines - if the machine moves or creeps you will lose the trueness of the bed (and the advantages of a level bed too).
In commercial shops where I have worked it was frequently the practise to glue and grout machines to the floor to prevent movement as it was then quicker and easier to rearrange machines to suit changes in the work flow.
Ian.
My view on the two points that you raise:
Level: Nothing magic about level except it is the easiest angle to reproduce.
I have an engineer's level (ex ebay) which is not the best, but it is graduated in units of 0.1mm/metre (i.e. one part in 10000) and can be interpolated between marks to about 1/5 of a division for comparison purposes.
That means that if I have some work a couple of inches long to set-up, I can get better accuracy using the level than using my DTI - and it is quicker.
Also - it is handy to have at least one reliable level surface in the workshop.
Bolting down: I agree with Dave. All machines creep with time if you do not secure them. The guidance for installing lathes includes the correct bolting down procedures to prevent distortion of the bed and to correct any residual errors due to any inherent twist in the bed - this is why all machines have a securing point at each corner rather than a three point mounting which, while ensuring balance, does not enable compensation for twist.
You should always bolt down precision machines - if the machine moves or creeps you will lose the trueness of the bed (and the advantages of a level bed too).
In commercial shops where I have worked it was frequently the practise to glue and grout machines to the floor to prevent movement as it was then quicker and easier to rearrange machines to suit changes in the work flow.
Ian.
B
Bogstandard
Guest
Just to complicate matters,
I used to have my lathe bolted to the floor, but have now removed the bolts.
I noticed that between summer and winter, there was a definite twisting effect that was produced by the bolting down. Since the bolts were removed a few years ago, the bed hasn't moved, and is is checked fairly frequently, and it doesn't go walkabouts.
You can buy anti vibration pads that the machinery sits on, these do stop walkabout if the machine has a tendency to go that way. But they are usually fairly expensive, and are rated by the weight of the machine.
Also, if you are bolting down, you should have levelling screws next to the bolt down holes. The lathe is levelled first, then bolted down, then the level rechecked and adjusted as necessary. If there is a lot of unevenness on the floor you are liable to put a permanent twist in the bed if you are not careful, especially on an all cast one like yours. The ones on cabinet stands are not prone to this as the stand usually flexes a little. Then you shim under the lathe to stand mountings to get to level. That is how mine is done.
Hope it hasn't confused you any more than necessary.
John
I used to have my lathe bolted to the floor, but have now removed the bolts.
I noticed that between summer and winter, there was a definite twisting effect that was produced by the bolting down. Since the bolts were removed a few years ago, the bed hasn't moved, and is is checked fairly frequently, and it doesn't go walkabouts.
You can buy anti vibration pads that the machinery sits on, these do stop walkabout if the machine has a tendency to go that way. But they are usually fairly expensive, and are rated by the weight of the machine.
Also, if you are bolting down, you should have levelling screws next to the bolt down holes. The lathe is levelled first, then bolted down, then the level rechecked and adjusted as necessary. If there is a lot of unevenness on the floor you are liable to put a permanent twist in the bed if you are not careful, especially on an all cast one like yours. The ones on cabinet stands are not prone to this as the stand usually flexes a little. Then you shim under the lathe to stand mountings to get to level. That is how mine is done.
Hope it hasn't confused you any more than necessary.
John
rake60
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2007
- Messages
- 4,756
- Reaction score
- 124
All good advice here!
The most important thing is to correct and stabilize and twist.
That's already been stated here.
Level isn't as important for a small lathe but it's certainly not a bad thing.
With a lot of tinkering, shimming, jacking and clamping you can get it PERFECT
in both areas.
But, as John said, when the ambient temperature changes it will all be lost.
Some parts are cast iron, others are steel. They expand and contract at different rates.
Bolting it solid to the floor will amplify that.
It's kind of a "Catch 22" issue.
Rick
The most important thing is to correct and stabilize and twist.
That's already been stated here.
Level isn't as important for a small lathe but it's certainly not a bad thing.
With a lot of tinkering, shimming, jacking and clamping you can get it PERFECT
in both areas.
But, as John said, when the ambient temperature changes it will all be lost.
Some parts are cast iron, others are steel. They expand and contract at different rates.
Bolting it solid to the floor will amplify that.
It's kind of a "Catch 22" issue.
Rick
Mike: I've got two Lantaine lathes at my school here. They are top heavy and on cement. But, I put steel pads anchored into the cement first; then welded three links of chain to the steel pads and bolted the links to the lathes. Now they can move a little bit year round, and if necessary, I can unbolt and shift. My .02$ Wayne( a newbie here but long time lathe user). BTW, anyone else out in the land using Lantaine 350's?
B
Bogstandard
Guest
I think people might be getting confused a little over this expansion and contraction bit.
In industry or schools, usually the areas have to be maintained at fairly constant temperatures, so you don't get the massive temperature fluctuation that you get in home shops. Imagine in deep winter it can be below freezing, and in high summer it can be like an oven, so 70 deg.f. split is easily achieved in a home shop, whereas in a commercial environment, that split might be only 30 degrees, although at times it might seem more.
John
In industry or schools, usually the areas have to be maintained at fairly constant temperatures, so you don't get the massive temperature fluctuation that you get in home shops. Imagine in deep winter it can be below freezing, and in high summer it can be like an oven, so 70 deg.f. split is easily achieved in a home shop, whereas in a commercial environment, that split might be only 30 degrees, although at times it might seem more.
John
"BTW, anyone else out in the land using Lantaine 350's?"
I believe my Ho Flung Dung lathe from the 70's is a copy of the Lantaine 350.
It's a good machine,although the backlash in the leadscrew is more than I like.One day It'll get fixed
I believe my Ho Flung Dung lathe from the 70's is a copy of the Lantaine 350.
It's a good machine,although the backlash in the leadscrew is more than I like.One day It'll get fixed
Bent Prop: That backlash in the lead screw is very expensive! If yours has the smallish brass angular worm gear with an OD of 31 mm, I've got a spare. It cost me very close to $400.00 for each. Of course, now I'm more careful. The worm gear that is the driver for this one wears on the seat frame as there is no access for grease or other lubricant so this could be a cause of wear as well. Good luck, Wayne.
I think we have also identified a "difference" in machines as well, it seems to me the smaller lathe's like the 7x12 etc and my 9x20 etc are pretty light and benefit from being well secured however; the more "industrial" and heavier machines seem to benefit from a different approach ie..... "free floating" to a degree.
Dave
Dave
Similar threads
