Jacobs taper choice

[pmerritt]

Hey Everybody,

I'm going to get a keyless drill chuck for my mill and was wondering if it makes any difference which taper I choose. The chuck comes with the choice of a JT2, JT6 or JT33. Does it matter which one? What advantage do certain tapers have over others? I'll be using this on a South Bend Bridgeport knockoff. No super hard core work, just super cool engine building

Thanks for your help,

Peter

 

[Omnimill]

I'm not sure it makes too much difference as long as you can get the correct arbour. I suppose get the largest Jacobs taper - JT6?

Vic.

 

[Lakc]

I just upgraded my chuck and went 6JT because I assumed it was the strongest. Only reason I could see to go smaller is if you wanted to swap arbors to a smaller chuck that was unavailable in the larger JT sizes.

 

[kvom]

Some of the larger chucks won't go down to 0, so I'd choose the chuck that will handle the smallest drill bit you plan to use, and then get the arbor to match. You might want to get two chucks, one for large bits and the other for small.

 

[MachineTom]

If you have a R-8 spindle and want to have something that can't come apart, get an Albrecht or its clone with an intergal shank. It also is a bit shorter than the same size chuck with a seperate arbor. If you still want a seperate arbor get a JT 6 for a 1/2 chuck, this will be you main used chuck. get a 1/4" chuck with a straight 1/2 shank for the little stuff.

 

[Omnimill]

Some of the larger chucks won't go down to 0

Yes, my Albrecht goes from 3mm - 16mm so I had to buy a 0-10mm for work on the lathe, both chucks are mounted MT2. When I bought a Mill (MT3 spindle) I decided to get another chuck with an MT3 arbor, it was another 0-10mm and then I found (and bought) a 0-16mm! It seems that while the old chucks were 3-16 or 1/8"-5/8" the new 16mm chucks go down to zero, very handy!

Vic.