OK , here is the problem I think I have. I have ordered a rotary table that accepts a Morse Taper #1. I have a couple of mt#1 blank end arbors, as well as the matching tap and die for my Unimat DB200 accessories( that being a 3 & 4 jaw chuck-12mX1). What I'm not seeing is how to put the mt#1 taped end in a lathe and accurately reduce the size of the blank end to the required diameter for me to thread it. And then, how to go about threading it "accurately" so I can use it in my rotary table. I'm very new to this machining hobby (2 months ). I have a Unimat DB200 lathe, Atlas 12x36 lathe, a floor model drill press( I know it's not a milling machine) as well as a nice assortment of machinist tools. What I don't have is metal working knowledge. Please, you now know what I have and pretty much don't have. Any solutions to my problem are well invited. Thanks for reading and Take Care. Rich
Help threading the blank end of a mt1 arbor
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Powder keg
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The best way I think would be to turn it between Centers. Do A search on here. Im sure I saw something a few days ago.
Maryak
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Rich,
Why do you want/need to put a male thread on the end. ???
If its for a draw bar why not a female thread, i.e. drill a hole and use a tap. ???
Hope this helps and I hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs.
Best Regards
Bob
Why do you want/need to put a male thread on the end. ???
If its for a draw bar why not a female thread, i.e. drill a hole and use a tap. ???
Hope this helps and I hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs.
Best Regards
Bob
I gather you are trying to turn the large end of a MT blank.
I don't know what part of the world you come from M, but things like these should be universally available.
http://rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/HEADSTOCK_REDUCERS.html
http://rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/MORSE_TAPER_SLEEVES.html
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves
These are the basic tools required for running machines and allow you to hold, in your situation, a 1MT in say your 3MT spindle nose after your lathe chuck is removed.
The headstock reducers are for holding smaller MT's in your spindle nose, and the MT sleeves allow you to hold larger or smaller MT's in say your tailstock or drill press and still retain the drive tang.
At the top of the third link, it shows MT straight sockets, these can allow you to grip a MT in say your lathe chuck, but not as accurate as the others, because you will be relying on the runout accuracy of your chuck.
If you went for the sleeves, it would be a worthwhile investment buying a couple of MT drifts to get them apart. Down a bit on this link, and shown as drill drifts.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Wedges-Drifts
They should always be kept scrupulously clean before assembly, and no lubricant should be used between the parts on assembly.
I know it means spending a bit of your hard earned, but if looked after, these will last you a lifetime and will be one of your better investments over the coming years.
This reply isn't going to get you out of your immediate situation, but in the future, you would find a few of these items, well chosen for your needs and machinery requirements, well worth the investment.
Blogs
I don't know what part of the world you come from M, but things like these should be universally available.
http://rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/HEADSTOCK_REDUCERS.html
http://rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/MORSE_TAPER_SLEEVES.html
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves
These are the basic tools required for running machines and allow you to hold, in your situation, a 1MT in say your 3MT spindle nose after your lathe chuck is removed.
The headstock reducers are for holding smaller MT's in your spindle nose, and the MT sleeves allow you to hold larger or smaller MT's in say your tailstock or drill press and still retain the drive tang.
At the top of the third link, it shows MT straight sockets, these can allow you to grip a MT in say your lathe chuck, but not as accurate as the others, because you will be relying on the runout accuracy of your chuck.
If you went for the sleeves, it would be a worthwhile investment buying a couple of MT drifts to get them apart. Down a bit on this link, and shown as drill drifts.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Wedges-Drifts
They should always be kept scrupulously clean before assembly, and no lubricant should be used between the parts on assembly.
I know it means spending a bit of your hard earned, but if looked after, these will last you a lifetime and will be one of your better investments over the coming years.
This reply isn't going to get you out of your immediate situation, but in the future, you would find a few of these items, well chosen for your needs and machinery requirements, well worth the investment.
Blogs
I think Rich has threaded chucks that he wants to mount to an RT with a morse taper center socket. I suspect such adapters are available, but don't know where to get one. Otherwise, you can use one of the reducers like Blogs suggests to hold the blank in the headstock and thread it. Enco in the US often puts the reducing sleeves on sale.
Blogwitch has the right answer. Either MT3-MT1 reducer to put in your Atlas headstock and turn to size or a MT1 straight socket and hold in your four jaw chuck on your Unimat, and turn to size.
The ideal way to thread would be single pointed on the lathe. I doubt that you will have metric threading ability on your Atlas and may or may not on your Unimat. If you don't have the ability to cut the threads on the lathe then the only alternative you have is the die which should be held in a die holder in the tail stock or at a minimum held square to the work with the tail stock ram while you turn the die with a wrench.
The ideal way to thread would be single pointed on the lathe. I doubt that you will have metric threading ability on your Atlas and may or may not on your Unimat. If you don't have the ability to cut the threads on the lathe then the only alternative you have is the die which should be held in a die holder in the tail stock or at a minimum held square to the work with the tail stock ram while you turn the die with a wrench.
Rolland
Well-Known Member
If it will help rather than go to all the trouble of threading the center why not make an adapter plate.
I made a plate that will mount to the rt table using the mounting slots and mounted the chuck on the plate. I am not sure how your chucks mount but you can drill and thread or make a stud that screws into the plate. I also turned a piece that fits in the recess in the center hole and threaded it, then drill the plate on center and screw the piece to the plate that holds it in the center of the rt. All you need to do is center the rt with x-y.
I hope this makes some sense ??? I can do some photos if it will help.
I made a plate that will mount to the rt table using the mounting slots and mounted the chuck on the plate. I am not sure how your chucks mount but you can drill and thread or make a stud that screws into the plate. I also turned a piece that fits in the recess in the center hole and threaded it, then drill the plate on center and screw the piece to the plate that holds it in the center of the rt. All you need to do is center the rt with x-y.
I hope this makes some sense ??? I can do some photos if it will help.
Thank you all -so much - for such good solutions to my problem. I didn't even know that straight to mt1 was out there for sell. I've ordered a straight to mt3-mt2-mt1 combination set, thanks for the idea and the links Blogwitch. Till the set arrives, I'm going to try using Rollands method of a back plate for my 3 & 4 jaw chucks. "This is really a great site"----very quick to respond !!
Thanks Again------Rich
Thanks Again------Rich
Oh, I forgot to thank Stan. I will work on one or two in my atlas lathe. I'm presently disassembling it to true-up and lubricate it. I do have the metric gear set, but till I'm comfortable with the tear down and set-up, I'm going to leave it with the S.A.E. gear set. That will work fine for the mt1 to various drill chucks, once my adapters arrive. Thanks Again ----
- Rich -
- Rich -
