ajoeiam
Well-Known Member
Hi Gordon, Guys,
Some more pictures of the inside of my ActoGrap pen.
snip
I've started to draw this up with accurate dimensions which I will post later.
Following!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Gordon, Guys,
Some more pictures of the inside of my ActoGrap pen.
snip
I've started to draw this up with accurate dimensions which I will post later.
Making and breaking the contact is spark eroding. Without the tip being moved from the contact it is called welding.How important is the vibration of the tip? If the current were interrupted, could it work without the tip vibrating?
That does not look like it justifies the $500 price the present day ActoGraph unit sell for. MSC sells one for $498 but they also list a spare ground cable for $61 and that is nothing but a piece of wire with an alligator clip. It looks like it should be fairly easy to make one.
It looks like there are contact points on the end of the coil. I assume that means it acts as kind of a buzzer/vibrator in operation.
Thank you for your efforts. Looks like I may have another to do project. I am looking forward to a more detailed drawing.
Gordon
After spending a bunch of time looking at these tools, I wondered about making an electronically controlled version rather than an electromechanically controlled one.
Commercial products I found ranged from 500W to 2500W. This is a lot more than the 25W you have found in hour system.
25W is really easy to do with a MOSFET. 500W at 5 V is just a bit harder.
How important is the vibration of the tip? If the current were interrupted, could it work without the tip vibrating?
Carl
Does it work on hardened tools like drills and reamers?I have one of these Dremel's & it does the job. You can very the stroke. I'm not doing art, just ID-ing metal parts.
https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-290-01-Stroke-Engraver-Template/dp/B0000302YN
Does anyone have a good way to mark tooling. I am talking about marking the size on small cutting tools like reamers etc. Things like the vibrating engravers will not mark hardened tools and a rotary engraver does not work well on small diameter tools like 1/8". Electrostatic engravers are too expensive for limited use.
Beautiful work!Gordon,
You could consider the chemical etching technique that most knife makers use to etch their logos on to their knives (both hardened carbon and stainless steel). Just Google "photo resist etching"...
Here's an image of my knife-maker's logo:
View attachment 126360
And here's what it looks like on a knife:
View attachment 126361
and a wider view (on a different knife...)
View attachment 126362
This process involves the spraying on of a chemical "etch resist", the exposure of a "photo positive" (old film type positive made by either exposing an old-time film, or much easier just printing it on a transparent film using a photo copier), and then etching the metal with an acid or other etching chemical - I use ferric chloride. The very fine lines forming the fingers of this Bushman rock painting are perhaps 0.5mm thick (I suspect even thinner, but have never measured them), and as can be seen in the first photo they etch quite well, so making very fine markings will only be limited by the accuracy and clarity of the photo positive, with the photo-copying process giving not quite as good results. For less critical use (e.g. numbering of tools), one can eliminate the photo positive process, and just write on the clear film with a sharpie marker, or print a "negative" image on a laser printer with the number being left blank, and the surrounding area filled with black to create the number.
Hennie
Beautiful work!
I don't know about that - the photo looked good to me!Thanks. Unfortunately my photographic skills are not on par with my knife making
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