cleaning ally
- Thread starter firebird
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Bluechip
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Rich
Clean it of what?
If it's oil free take the stuff for bead blasting or vapour blasting. Otherwise you can do a fair job with nothing other than Bio Detergent and hot water. Gobbles up most gunge.
Corrosion can be removed with washing soda, Sodium Carbonate. Don't leave it in, it fizzes cheerfully, it IS corrosive to Alum. Alloy.
I use that method before painting ally. sheet. It produces a matt grey finish that takes some paint better, particularly 'Bondaprimer'. Try a test on a bit of scrap if you've never done it,
Why not have a look at a Vintage Bike forum or two, no doubt you'll find blasting sevices suggested, common enough requirement for bike c/cases etc.
Dave BC
Clean it of what?
If it's oil free take the stuff for bead blasting or vapour blasting. Otherwise you can do a fair job with nothing other than Bio Detergent and hot water. Gobbles up most gunge.
Corrosion can be removed with washing soda, Sodium Carbonate. Don't leave it in, it fizzes cheerfully, it IS corrosive to Alum. Alloy.
I use that method before painting ally. sheet. It produces a matt grey finish that takes some paint better, particularly 'Bondaprimer'. Try a test on a bit of scrap if you've never done it,
Why not have a look at a Vintage Bike forum or two, no doubt you'll find blasting sevices suggested, common enough requirement for bike c/cases etc.
Dave BC
I have found that most abrasive type of cleaning (media blasting) is a bit too harse for my tastes unless I wish to be left with a matte fine grained finish, A session in a tumbler with either nut shells or synthetic media will produce a fine smooth finish, unless the surface is heavily corroded to begin with, then the surface defects should be tended to before treatment to level them out. After tumbling, a good go with Semi-Chrome or Flitz metal polish will bring up the luster quite nicely. DO NOT use the product Brasso on the pieces as it is not designed for Aluminum and will microscopically begin to corrode the piece. Avoid caustics at all costs.
BC1
Jim
BC1
Jim
After cleaning with a solvent I use a product called Alumiprep 33. It is a phosphoric acid cleaner and does a very good job cleaning the pores in cast aluminum. It makes engines look manufactured new and won't change the tolerances on machined surfaces. You need to do the bright work after using it as it will turn polished work to a haze. It makes Imperial and US bike engines look grand with a show quality appearance.
Here is where I get it on this side of the pond.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alumiprep.php
Kenny
Here is where I get it on this side of the pond.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alumiprep.php
Kenny
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firebird said:
If the al is coroded sanding and polishing is the only option. If the pieces can be painted than that is a good way to deal with this problem.
To paint I degrease aluminum first with a solvent like M.E.K. Next I use sand paper to remove light surface corrosion. Then I simply apply a self etching primer. This primer is available at most auto parts stores.
If the pieces are heavily corroded there will be more steps involved for a lasting finish. Below is a link that provides more specific information. It may apply to the work your friend is facing, and provide the answers for his particular situation.
http://www.finishing.com/1200-1399/1318.shtml
-MB
Twmaster
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If simply grungy, not corroded you can put the parts in an old crock pot filled with anti-freeze. The green kind. Set the pot to low, let sit overnight in the pot. Do this outside as the fumes are narsty.
We do this with gunked up model airplane engines.
We do this with gunked up model airplane engines.
"Soda Blasting" is what you want - baking soda (sodium bicarbonate is the medium) is shot the same way sand blasting is done.
However; the soda is much less damaging to the surface, largely left in its original condition. No pitting, etched appearance or uneven surface appearance. One of the reasons motorcyclists, and other engine builders have switched to it is because you don't have the risk of sand getting into oil passageways etc. No need for large amounts of time spent plugging passageways before blasting or cleaning out the part as a safety precaution afterwards.
Most cities have the service listed in the yellow pages, the sand blasters have added it to their list of services.
Cheers
Garry
However; the soda is much less damaging to the surface, largely left in its original condition. No pitting, etched appearance or uneven surface appearance. One of the reasons motorcyclists, and other engine builders have switched to it is because you don't have the risk of sand getting into oil passageways etc. No need for large amounts of time spent plugging passageways before blasting or cleaning out the part as a safety precaution afterwards.
Most cities have the service listed in the yellow pages, the sand blasters have added it to their list of services.
Cheers
Garry
