Cast Iron cylinder liner

[vcutajar]

Hi

I have another question for my Kiwi build. I might start on the cast iron cylinder liner soon. The inside diameter should be 25.4mm and it has to be honed. How much material should I leave for honing? Also would these tools be any good for honing?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-VS...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c62eb80c7

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-fou...UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item4835f8e992

Thanks in advance

Vince

 

[lensman57]

Hi,

I used a similar tool to hone the cylinder in my Webster engine ( work in progress) so I don't know how well it will perform but by looking through the cylinder it looks OK. I left about 0.05 mm extra for honing.

 

[Catminer]

Hi Vince;
That is called a deglazing hone on this side. It is what I use to finish my cast iron bores.
It will not correct a defect in the cylinder but if you bored straight and smooth, works fine.
I leave .001" ( .025 mm ) for cleanup with the hone and usually come very close to size with a good surface for breaking in cast iron rings.

Peter

 

[Blogwitch]

Vince,

I have been using the Sealey version for a few years now to very good effect.

It will straighten out a slightly tapered bore of say a couple of thou out, but does take time.

But as already mentioned, if your bore is straight, it only takes 1 thou, or even less, to complete the hone. All you are doing is basically scratching a very shallow pattern into the cylinder wall that will retain oil while the rings bed in.

A word of warning though with any of these units, always clean the oil off after use, otherwise you will be breaking out the Araldite to stick the stones back on, DAMHIK. Use a fast acting neutral wash, something like meths or IPA, nothing that will soften the epoxy adhesive.


John

 

[cfellows]

Further to John's comments, I would add the following:

When you are honing the cylinder, keep the hone moving up and down as it turns, but do not let any part of the stones exit the cylinder as it's turning. This can cause a flare in the cylinder bore if you do.

You can also increase the aggressiveness of the hone if you submerge the cylinder and the hone partially or completely under water while you are honing. I use a bucket with a couple of inches of water in the bottom. Needless to day, I use a cordless drill to eliminate shock hazard. Still, don't get it wet.

I also use this kind of hone on my cylinders.

These are more aggressive than the Sealey hones and they can partially exit the cylinder while honing without causing any flare. They also leave a nice finish.

Chuck

 

[vcutajar]

Thanks gents for the replies.

Just ordered the Sealy hone from ebay.

What sort of lubrication should I use for lubrication during honing? Also, can I hone the liner before pressing in the aluminium cylinder or afterwards?

Vince

 

[Blogwitch]

Vince,

I have always honed afterwards.

What really needs to be achieved first is all operations, including machining, before the final hone, just in case things start to tighten up or relax during those operations.

I put my hone in the lathe chuck and run at around 65 to 150, and handball the cylinder along the hone. Other people use the hone in an electric (a bit fast) or battery drill and do it on the bench or the cylinder held in a vice. Whichever way, it seems to work OK.

You can get special honing oil, but I have found that general purpose lubricating oil does it for me. Honing oil is supposed to stop the stones getting clogged, but having a pot nearby with some white spirits in is good enough for me to swill the stones in during the operation. I don't leave the stones soaking in the white spirits, over time, it softens the epoxy that holds the stones in place.

Like everything else, many people have their own way of doing things. Do it a couple of times yourself and you will soon find what method suits you.


John

 

[Jasonb]

Just this morning I did the one for the Domestic that I'm building at the moment. I put the Sealey style hone in the bench drill on its slowest speed and hand held the cylinder and gently worked it up and down. I tend to use parafin (Kerosene) as the lub as it keeps the stones clean, with oil I find they can clog up.

J

 

[vcutajar]

Thanks John and Jason for your input. As John suggested I will hone after inserting the liner in the cylinder. Today I finished the ID and OD of the liner and left 0.05mm material for honing. Hope it works out.

Vince

 

[vcutajar]

Thanks guys. Today I did the honing operation and it turned out well

Vince