Black protective oil coating

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Abby
Very nice job.
Say hello to Coventry for me,I served my apprenticeship at Coventry Gauge and Tool from 1967-71

Regards
John
Spain
 
Lol Lindo you must be 1 year older than me ! the Matrix has long gone , it was last known as Churchill Matrix and made CNC lathes, I had a contact in the paint shop (very useful). I understand that it was 10% owned by the Iraqi's and closed down after being accused of making parts for the super gun project. I had several pals serving their apprenticeships in Coventry factories such as Bristol Siddeley , now part of Rolls Royce , and Alfred Herberts not to mention the car factories , all gone to the scrapyard, even the football team plays in Northampton 'cos they can't afford the rent on the new stadium.
Plenty of jobs for youngsters collecting supermarket trolleys though or cooking burgers in a Macdonalds .
 
Lindo :

But beware this will soften hardened steel.
But to answer your original question you will need to get to the 700 -800 degree rance to obtain black heat.

the other methods are to use a chemical conversion most tool suppliers industrial supply houses have tool black.
Beechwood Casey the maker of gun blue for home uses also sells tool black.

In any case you are creating a layer of black oxidation to prevent brown oxidation from happening. so store in a wooden tool chest oild oncein a while and this will prevent rust.

tin

As Tin Falcon stated it may soften hardened steel was my concern due to the 700-800 F if I'm converting correctly is on the border of drawing a part back after heat treating. As for cleaning I always hang my parts from a wire so I touch them once the cleaning starts, I also wear rubber dish washing gloves so no oils from me. If you are trying to protect a tool from rust that gets little use but you need to have it I spray mine with Spray-on PDRP it's a great rust preventative that goes on a little like water to get into all the cracks then drys to a waxy film that wipes off with a little thinner when needed. I spray and store all my steel that way because it may be months before it's use and I've seen it sweat from temp changes.

Todd
wallbash.gif
 
Reading this post got me thinking I work with coating guns, models, tools, and etc. I'm trying to get set up to Anodize Aluminum parts at this time and have most of what is needed. This Parkerizing sounds great so I goggled some info there is a lot of things out to work with Brownells has two pdf. files of how to 1- http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-482 Parkerizing.pdf 2- http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-566 Zinc parkerizing PD Bl.pdf I thought this might be of interest to all and a fairly cheap place to get Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing Solution if you find a better price please let me know I will be buying some soon. I'm in process of compiling all the info I find into one pdf. if you are interested let me know I don't want problems because it's compiled from different sources.

LCW ZPS16 Zinc Phospha...
$22.66
Pricefalls.com

Thanks,
Todd
 
I have an old 1860ish shotgun that is treated with Ferric Chloride. Still looks beautiful on the Damascus barrels.
 
I originally thought that I might do an article on this, but thought that there might not be enough text to pad it out, so just decided to post it here.

This is just an example of how I do my blackening using chemicals from the Blackfast Company.

I just grabbed 2 pieces that were handy, a silver steel home made cutter, and a mild steel piece. I buffed the silver steel up a bit and put the mild steel piece in the lathe and used some emery to clean it up.


First step was to soak the parts in some degreaser for 10 min.


Then after a rinse in fresh water, 45 - 60 seconds in some conditioner.


Another fresh water rinse, and then into the blackening solution for about 1 min.


Then out again and give it a rinse in fresh water.


Then give it a soak for about 30 min. in the soluable oil solution.



Finished parts, my solutions may need topping up a bit with concentrate for a slightly darker finish.


Paul.
 
I originally thought that I might do an article on this, but thought that there might not be enough text to pad it out, so just decided to post it here.

This is just an example of how I do my blackening using chemicals from the Blackfast Company.

I just grabbed 2 pieces that were handy, a silver steel home made cutter, and a mild steel piece. I buffed the silver steel up a bit and put the mild steel piece in the lathe and used some emery to clean it up.


First step was to soak the parts in some degreaser for 10 min.


Then after a rinse in fresh water, 45 - 60 seconds in some conditioner.


Another fresh water rinse, and then into the blackening solution for about 1 min.


Then out again and give it a rinse in fresh water.


Then give it a soak for about 30 min. in the soluable oil solution.



Finished parts, my solutions may need topping up a bit with concentrate for a slightly darker finish.


Paul.

Hi Paul,

Now in South Thailand,after fishing and now enjoying the local food.

Please advise where could I get some Blackfast.
 
Hi Gus, thanks for that Herbie. Im just catching up on all the posts after being away for a week on a brief holiday.

Paul.


Came back 25th March with a mild flu but made it worst going out fishing.
Recovering now but wee bitty lethargic.Will resume work in a day or two.
The Thai Mangos may have done it on Gus. Did have a couple more. The ''Howie'' next to my NB is looking at me & begging me to add on more parts to her O/H.:) Will recover completely for this weekend fishing.Take care.
 
Gus, you could also see if there is a Caswell supplier in Singapore, they have similar stuff.

Paul.


Thanks for Caswell info.Planning to DIY another QCTP and this time no rush. Blackening is required to counter humid conditons in the three open sided machineshop. Now about to move on to m/shop.Flu 99% gone. Will take it easy.
 
Gus, glad that your feeling better, you must be keen to start making chips again. My V4 is coming along nicely, no rush, but it's definately not for the beginner or feint hearted. I'm machining the rocker supports at the moment, lucky that I had a spare, as I was machining the relief in the sides and put one in against the stop backwards. Wish I had a CNC mill, it would be so easy.

Paul.
 
Gus, glad that your feeling better, you must be keen to start making chips again. My V4 is coming along nicely, no rush, but it's definately not for the beginner or feint hearted. I'm machining the rocker supports at the moment, lucky that I had a spare, as I was machining the relief in the sides and put one in against the stop backwards. Wish I had a CNC mill, it would be so easy.

Paul.

But then with CNC Machine Centre, its no longer hand made by Paul the MasterCraftsman. Turned 8 3mm pins for rocker arms and trying very hard to enjoy it. I have 12 pins to turn. There are no Oil Holes in the rocker arms. Will drill them just to oil pins. Fishing not too bad today.The raw beginners will have a very tough time with V-4 & V-2. Too much detail and unforgiving dimensional requirements to meet. At least Jerry Howell's drawings are quite clear cut and time tested. The carbs will be fun.

2 Javelins and 3 Snappers. Water not best. Having high hopes for tomorrow.

Happy Easter.(Easter Eggs still fashionable ??)
 

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