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mmatisoff

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I want to practice cutting steel on my new lathe. Home Depot (and Lowe's) carry various sizes of steel rod. The one thing I can't find out is the composition of the steel rod they sell.

Has anyone used these rod for machining? If yes, can you tell me the best cutting speed for the rods? Alternatively, can you direct me to the site where I can find the composition of these steel rods? Thx Marty
 
Ive tried machineing them many moons ago, cant remember the feed I used, but I do remember they didnt machine very well....
 
You probably won't be able to find anything about the composition as it probably changes from batch to batch. Generally most of the metals sold at big box and hardware stores is the lowest grade of material available.

I would not advise that you use it for practice cutting. If you can't get a good finish on a piece of it you won't know if it is your technique or if is just not possible for anyone to get a good finish. If you do get a good finish/good cut the settings may not apply to the next piece you try to cut.

I suggest that you start out learning to cut on very easy and forgiving material like 12L14 steel. After that becomes easy, then move on to something more difficult like cold rolled steel , like 1018. Then if you to try to cut some hardware store steel you will know what steel should cut like.

Gail in NM
 
Marty:

Somehow I am remembering that the steel from those places ASTM A-36

A-36 is run of the mill structural steel. It is machinable but made for for dependability . it is run of the mill structural steel used in I beams bridges and buildings. it is considered 72% machinable and 120fpm cutting rate.
It may be difficult to get it pretty.
that being said When I went to USAF tech school all our practice material was aluminum.

If you want ultra machinenable steel but not weldable get 12L14.
Tin
 
Great one I have a question which types of tools are good.
That is an open question. I assume you mean lathe cutting tools?

The indexable insert bits from http://www.arwarnerco.com/

Are arguably the best they are not cheap . $120 per set. I have used them and no complaints Mike Warner takes care of his customers.
If you can attend a cabin fever or other show Warner has show specials.

IMHO all machinists should learn to grind HSS blanks get good quality 5% cobalt if you can afford it. Import tools work but do not expect the consistent quality of USA made.
Tin
 
That is an open question. I assume you mean lathe cutting tools?

The indexable insert bits from http://www.arwarnerco.com/

Are arguably the best they are not cheap . $120 per set. I have used them and no complaints Mike Warner takes care of his customers.
If you can attend a cabin fever or other show Warner has show specials.

IMHO all machinists should learn to grind HSS blanks get good quality 5% cobalt if you can afford it. Import tools work but do not expect the consistent quality of USA made.
Tin


Please advise source of this good 5% Cobalt HSS bits. Chinese HSS is OK if you are not too demanding. Normally I would resharpen for the last two cuts.

Warner Boring Bars.
Am very happy with tool performance.Thanks for the good advice.
About to buy the next size up.

Just came back from Burma Banks.Was a good trip.Lost three big fish. Max. drag and 80 lb line could not hold on to fish.:wall::wall:
 
Cleveland Mo-Max and and Chicago Latrobe are the two old top name brands. Top quality .

Mike Warner sells top quality square tool blanks as well.

I have seen the seco and interstate names as well well
Like anything else you can spend between $ 2 and & $12 each for a 1/4 bit.
Tin
 
As others will tell you, it's difficult or impossible to get a good finish on this stuff. But as long as you know that, I think it's fine for practising because it's got two things going for it: It's cheap and readily available.

I have made things out of this material - mostly repair parts and such. I wouldn't use it to make an engine or anything like that.



I want to practice cutting steel on my new lathe. Home Depot (and Lowe's) carry various sizes of steel rod. The one thing I can't find out is the composition of the steel rod they sell.

Has anyone used these rod for machining? If yes, can you tell me the best cutting speed for the rods? Alternatively, can you direct me to the site where I can find the composition of these steel rods? Thx Marty
 
I have a pile of box store steel in my stock boxes. The steel usually comes in three varieties depending on the store.

- Hot rolled mild that is usually right at the stated size and machines easily after getting under the skin. The hot rolled is commonly painted red on one end and still has black scale on it.

- Cold rolled mild uncoated. I don't see this stuff often. It's a bit "gummy" to machine but preferable to below.

- Cold rolled galvanized that is usually .002 - .004 under sized. Worst of the lot in my opinion but, unfortunately, the most common. Often painted green on the end. Hard to get a good finish without a power feed and a good nose radius on the tool. I think that the zinc getting on the tool may adversely affect the cut. I just made some temporary parts for a pair of "millie" wobblers from Joe Martin's book out of this stuff just to get them running. The parts came out clean and usable but will be replaced with stainless when I find some.

I generally rough in with a sharp piece of HSS hand dressed with oiled 600 grit wet/dry on a flat surface. If I have to hit the dimension on the money with a good surface finish, I'll up the speed and swap to carbide after the coating is gone.

A quick blip of WD40 every so often works very well as a parting lubricant on this stuff with an aggressive feed. With the WD I'll get a nice thin ribbon hissing off that gradually turns to grit as the WD disappears. I back out, clean, blip, then go back in.

Lately Home Depot and some of the Ace Hardware stores have been scaling back the metal stock. Lowe's, for the moment, seems to have the best stock selection around here. All three have dropped the "K&S Engineering" stainless/brass/copper stock displays.

While your there look for the isle full of engine part castings. They call it the "Plumbing" isle for some reason. ;D
 
Can you recommend a good place to buy small amounts of 12L14 steel. I work on clocks and 12" by 3/8" rod would last me a year. I went to online metals which has a good price ($1.95) for 12", but here's the kicker ... they want $12 to UPS the metal to me.
 
Cleveland Mo-Max and and Chicago Latrobe are the two old top name brands. Top quality .

Mike Warner sells top quality square tool blanks as well.

I have seen the seco and interstate names as well well
Like anything else you can spend between $ 2 and & $12 each for a 1/4 bit.
Tin

Hi Tin

Thanks for the supplier info.

Now planning to take another hit at the IC engine rebuild. Most likely will start all over again with new bar stocks.
The Northumbrian Rocket will follow after the successful spinning of IC engine.

Hot and humid now till the SW blows.:fan::fan:

Gus Teng.
 
Marty:

Somehow I am remembering that the steel from those places ASTM A-36

A-36 is run of the mill structural steel. It is machinable but made for for dependability . it is run of the mill structural steel used in I beams bridges and buildings. it is considered 72% machinable and 120fpm cutting rate.
It may be difficult to get it pretty.
that being said When I went to USAF tech school all our practice material was aluminum.

If you want ultra machinenable steel but not weldable get 12L14.
Tin

Hi Tin,

Thanks for the kind advice. The truth came out after half century.:cool::cool:
We were given hot rolled black mild steel bar to practice turning in trade school. Did not dawn on us,Black M S Bars will not give good finishing,no matter how hard we tried.:wall::wall: We were told,Colchester and Harrison
Student Lathe will not give good finishing.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
oops spell checking at its finest spell checker changes weldability to dependability . Do not try to weld 12L14 the lead makes it more machinable but destroys the welding properties.
sorry guys.
Tin
 
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