Some time ago I know this forum and the truth is I am very pleasantly surprised at the amount of information that is in it. I am a lover of steam engines but the vast majority of machines that are in the forum are in inches and some of them in millimeters specifically a Gerry's beam steam engine, I have download the plans and start to build it. I am from northwest of Spain close to La Coruña and Santiago de Compostela
A very splendid forum
- Thread starter japi_53
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Multiply every measure by 25.4. ;D
Select stock material of the closest size (1/4" ==> 6mm) and make allowance for the difference where it is easier to put it.
i.e. You can make the columns of a table engine .35mm longer to get back the missing metal on the table, then cut the piston rods to the original size.
On complicated engines, write down on the drawing itself the converted values and/or the chosen metric size. Get Yourself an imperial drill chart with metric equivalences (drill #56 ??? ) and a screw chart too.
Pay a strong attention into writing clearly on the drawing the metric thread You selected in place of the imperial one, ON ALL THE PARTS. (You guess why I tell You that).
If You have an Euro converter (they can still be found on street markets for bucks, here) You can set the 'rate' to 25.4, then key in the imperial rate and read the metric equivalent rounded to the hundreth/mm. Some will allow doing calculations, too.
An inch rule and an imperial caliper are in order.
Welcome.
Marcello
Select stock material of the closest size (1/4" ==> 6mm) and make allowance for the difference where it is easier to put it.
i.e. You can make the columns of a table engine .35mm longer to get back the missing metal on the table, then cut the piston rods to the original size.
On complicated engines, write down on the drawing itself the converted values and/or the chosen metric size. Get Yourself an imperial drill chart with metric equivalences (drill #56 ??? ) and a screw chart too.
Pay a strong attention into writing clearly on the drawing the metric thread You selected in place of the imperial one, ON ALL THE PARTS. (You guess why I tell You that).
If You have an Euro converter (they can still be found on street markets for bucks, here) You can set the 'rate' to 25.4, then key in the imperial rate and read the metric equivalent rounded to the hundreth/mm. Some will allow doing calculations, too.
An inch rule and an imperial caliper are in order.
Welcome.
Marcello
Tin Falcon
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Another method is to let 1/16 in = 1 mm or 1/32 =1mm this will make an engine a bit smaller or larger than the original but the numbers come out even.
tin
tin
Thank you by your "wellcomes". Yes, work in inches is not too much complicate specially if the lathe and the mill have DRO with possibility to work in inches as is the case. Other thing is the habit of always working in milimiters. In any case thanks for your advice which obviously I will have intoaccount
Japi,
Welcome to the forum.
Gerry's beam engine was also my first - in fact I drew those metric plans you are using from Gerry Dykstra's (aka "oldboatguy") original imperial design.
If you are interested you can follow the build thread...
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11452.0
Any problems - drop me a PM.
Ken
Welcome to the forum.
Gerry's beam engine was also my first - in fact I drew those metric plans you are using from Gerry Dykstra's (aka "oldboatguy") original imperial design.
If you are interested you can follow the build thread...
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11452.0
Any problems - drop me a PM.
Ken
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