A BEAM ENGINE

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Very nice Rich :bow: - keep them coming!
It's nice to see a method of adjusting for alignment on a small engine in your build; I presume the eccentric is more for vertical adjustment and that horizontal adjustment is done using the slots on the base of the bearing block ?

Kind regards, Arnold
 
Hi

I think everyone can see the pictures Metalmuncher, I have had no comments from anyone ??? ??? ???

Arnold, that's right. As you can see the engine is now set up on a bit of plywood, not the best of materials to line things up on. I was trying to figure out a way to possibly line bore the three crank mountings but after a bit of thought I decided it would be better to make the outer one adjustable, it works well.
Cheers

Rich
 
Hi

I'm slowly finding the photos so here's a few more.

I made some oil cups from brass. 2 for the crank shaft main bearings, 1 for the eccentric and 1 for the outer crank shaft bearing.





The big end required a bit of creative engineering. ( I forgot to leave enough metal to fit one) A 1/16 hole was drilled in the cap.



I then soldered in a bit of 1/16 copper pipe and soldered an oil cup on the end of that.



It doesn't look too bad.



Cheers

Rich
 
RIGHT IM off to the scrap yard to get A V8 thats sum work brill regards bob
 
Who would've thunk it? Those scrap connecting rods and pistons are good for a bunch different things. Your application, however, is a new one on me. :)

Chuck
 
WOW!!!! This is one of the most interesting builds I have followed.Thank you .I can't wait to see the finished engine.

Ian ( seagar).
 
Hi

Some work done on the flyball governor today. First job was to remove the piston base and drill and tap a 4 BA hole.





And fit a brass stud.

.

The flyball fitted with a brass nut.



then re fitted to the engine.



The flyball pulley is a simple turning job from 7/16 round brass.



In keeping with the ex car parts theme I made the belt from an oil filter rubber seal.



Here's a bit of video

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4qew3_G6IE[/ame]

Cheers

Rich
 
firebird

That is a beautiful engine. it's different than most seen on these pages but in a nice way. The use of all the recycled items really does add to the overall charm of this beam engine. Thanks for taking the time to do the build log and keep us up to date with the great pictures. :bow: :bow:

Cheers :)

Don
 
You have made one of the most amazing recycled engine parts engine I have seen!
I am amazed! :bow: :bow: :bow:
I'm a believer in use whats available but you have taken it to a totally new level! :bow:
Wish I could get more shop time than I have lately maybe when the snow starts to fly.
Nice very nice build!!
 
I haven't posted much but I've been watching.
I do enjoy your builds.
(Although I miss seeing a shot or two out your window.) ;D
 
Hi Brian, Doc, Don and Carl.

Today I finished rebuilding the boiler after fetching it out of mothballs. A couple of mods have been carried out. I have drilled a few more vent holes across the back, the burner seemed to be lacking air when I last ran it. I have also fitted an exhaust steam pipe up the funnel ready to connect the beam engine to. You can just see the connection on the top right of the side casing.



Here the boiler is in position on its stand next to the engine.



Here's a shot for you Carl, looking down my shop and into the garden.



Cheers

Rich
 
That is really looking nice Rich :bow:

Golly; a sunny day in the UK !

Kind regards, Arnold
 
Nice sunny day Rich!
Thanks for the pics. It gives me an idea too. I work in the basement and if I'm gone more than a couple of days...the spidies tend to find homes in my equipment. I'll get some covers...although I do like sitting here and looking around at the shop.
 
Rich,

That looks even more amazing with your boiler :bow:
 
Hi

I need to make a regulator/shut off valve for the engine. I'm thinking that the valve should be close to the boiler, fitted directly into steam dome so that the steam can be shut off at source???? Any thoughts as to a suitable type would be appreciated. A drawing or sketch would help as well.

Cheers

Rich
 
Hi Rich

Keeping in mind I have limited experience with live steam...

I'd agree that it would be best to have the shut-off on, or as close as practical to, the steam dome. If I remember correctly KN Harris recommends this in his book on boilers for systems with a single shut-off valve.

Attached is a copied image for the shut-off / regulator valve from Dave Watkins's plans for the De Winton Idris locomotive; you might have to change some dimensions, angles and threads to suit your layout, but at least as far as I'm aware this regulator meets UK regulations as the valve spindle cannot just be unscrewed completely.

Hope this help a bit.

Kind regards, Arnold



regulator.jpeg
 
Hi Arnold

Thanks for that. I have some experience of the needle type as I made 2 valves for the small steam plant. I just wondered if that was the best type to use..

Cheers

Rich
 
Hi

Well its been slow going of late, not much shop time but I have managed to make this little valve.



While going through my drill drawer looking for something else I came across a taper reamer I have, I don't know why I have it, it's just one of those things you pick up. Anyway it gave me the idea to make the valve you see here. The correct method is to make a tapered D bit (described by John Bogstandard somewhere on the forum but I can't find it at the moment) and while the lathe top slide is set over make the tapered part of the valve at the same setting thus ensuring that the two parts fit together ok. I decided to have a go using the taper reamer I have ( I believe they are used for making the holes that tapered pins are knocked into).

I started with a bit of 7/16 brass held in a collet, drilled through and then the tapered reamer used too make the tapered hole.



Then I held the reamer in a collet and with a dial gauge set the top slide over until I achieved a zero reading along the reamer. his operation turned out to be easier than I thought.



Now with the top slide set over I turned a taper on a bit of brass.



A trial fit of the two parts. They fit together quite well. I carried on turning until I had about 3/8 extra sticking out of the body.



Next job was to turn the end down to 3mm and thread.



I used the tapered part as a mandrel to hold the body which I turned down to 10mm.



Centered in the milling machine and cross drilled 1/16.



Two pieces of 1/4 brass about 7/16 long are threaded 1/4 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. Each piece is held in a mandrel and the ends profiled with a 10mm cutter to match the radius of the body.



Here they are on the body.



Here the parts are assembled and held in a clamp. Note I have used a bit of 1/16 brass rod to keep the parts in line.



After silver soldering.



After a pickle to clean it up and the valve part has a about 1/2 inch turned down and parted off. I had to run a 1/16 drill through the body to clear the bit of 1/16 brass I used to keep the parts in line.



Very carefully heat up and bend over to form the handle.



Make a brass washer, about 1.5mm thick.



Assembled with a short length of stainless steel spring.



After a polish up, the finished valve.



I had one problem with the method I used. When I silver soldered the parts together the pressure of the clamp squashed the body slightly making the tapered hole oval. I had to run the tapered reamer through to clean it out and re cut the hole. Now of course the tapered valve part is too small so I had to make another (the one you see here) to fit. Next time I will do the soldering first then cut the tapered hole.

Anyway I got there in the end and the valve seems to work ok.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=og2nmhnmKzw[/ame]

I'm not sure yet whether I will use this valve on the engine but its been fun.

Cheers

Rich

 
;D Rich, to paraphrase the "slightly younger than myself generation" - COOL 8) :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold
 
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