220V single phase motor install and wiring

[steamer]

Hello all,

I am putting a new motor in my VN-12 mill.

2 HP single phase 220 volt.

The old starter wiring and blocks are shot...50+ years old

I am starting pretty much from scratch

The mill uses 220V 4 wire ( L1, L2, N, and ground)

It also has a 120 volt X axis feed motor that I am rewiring the controls for.

I could use the advice from some of you sagged electrical veterans.

I need soup to nuts here.....

The new motor is 7 wire with an internal thermal overload.

Any help would be appreciated!

Dave

 

[stevehuckss396]

Post a photo of the name plate and any diagram you may have. Sometimes there are wiring diagrams in the peckerhead (little junction box on the motor). The more info the better.

 

[steamer]

This would be the high voltage side, on the right

7P2 is the brown line and is the thermal overload wire....which appears to be isolated in this application.

I need this broken down for dummies here....so be gentle.... :

Dave

Dave

 

[Dan Rowe]

Dave,
If you have a 220 4 wire supply the colors should be black red white and green. Which are hot hot neutral and ground in that order.

The voltage should be 220 between red and black and 120 from red or black to neutral and ground.

The red and black are L1 and L2 sp they go to the high voltage combination which leaves one wire not connected to anything.

The 120 circuit can be made with either red or black and white and green goes to the motor frame.

Is there a motor controller in the circuit or a simple on off switch?

Dan

 

[stevehuckss396]

I assume the mill has a drum switch for forward and reverse. Does the switch have a similar drawing?

We are off to a pretty good start.

 

[steamer]

Hi Dan,

I read and understand all you have said.

That part I know....What controls I need to put in between is the tougher nut to solve...no experience here.

Dave

 

[steamer]

I have a new drum switch which I purchased from MSC.

I don't have anything else to speak of. ALL NEW!

The drum switch is a ACI CB0170034PL2.

As I see it I need 5 wires coming out of the motor.

I spent some time with a ohm meter on the switch and I can't get it figured out so it works. What I want ...really...is to have a completely dead motor with the drum switch in the off position ( no hot legs)
I would like to keep it as simple as possible, but I am afraid I need a relay.

I am hoping you guys can set me straight.
I'll try to get a diagram for the drum switch...got to get my son down for the night.....

Dave

 

[steamer]

Hi Dan,

The mill is reversing, and I very rarely do use it in reverse. I would like to keep that feature.

Dave

 

[stevehuckss396]

There should be some sort of paperwork with the new switch. See if you can dig it up and i'll check back tomorrow after work and see if I can draw something up if someone hasn't come up with something for you.

 

[steamer]

Hi Guys...I'll get the diagram after work...Thanks Guys!

Dave

 

[jpeter]

sounds like the drum switch is for reversing 3-phase.

 

[Stan]

Your concern about having both legs switched in the OFF position is valid. Many common drum switches only switch one leg when on 240 volt single phase.

With multiple responders (maybe all equally qualified) these threads can become very confused since there may be more than one way to do the wiring correctly.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Your concern about having both legs switched in the OFF position is valid.

It would only create an unsafe condition when you are working on the power. Most mills have a disconnect switch mounted on the back to disconnect all hot legs when servicing the mill. Aside from the drum switch you should have a service disconnect as well.

 

[steamer]

Here it is,

Steve, your comments are well stated. I have a plug wired to a wall box currently, as I run both mills with this source. I simply unplug the mill I don't want and plug in the mill I do. I am going to buy a clam shell lock out to keep the kids out...( Mostly my son...)

But saying that, as long as the motor is grounded , I should be just fine.

Dave

 

[stevehuckss396]

let me look at this tomorrow with a clear head and draw something up.

 

[steamer]

Thanks Steve!

Dave

 

[Dan Rowe]

Hi Dave,
I got rid of a few of my posts that mostly said what Steve said so all the diagrams are on the same page.

I have never seen that style of diagram so I can not say for sure how it works. It looks like it is a three stage or rotor switch. My take on the first stage is both sets of contacts 1 & 2 and set 3 & 4 are closed in both the REV and FWD positions and open in the off position.

The other two stages are for the reverse function. This is the section that I can not figure and would need a ohm meter logic check for the switch.

The diagram seams to be the standard NEMA terminals which do not quite match your motor. T1 and T2 are the run windings and 8 and 12 are the start windings with a cutout switch at 10.

I would check the ohm readings for contacts 5,6,7 & 8 on stage 2 and contacts 9-12 on stage 3 at all three switch positions to insure that I had a proper understanding of the logic in the diagram.

I hope this helps a bit maybe some one else has seen that type of diagram before.

Dan

 

[stevehuckss396]

Based on the 2 photos and the fact that you want it wired for high voltage here is what I come up with. This wiring scheme breaks both hot legs BTW.

Somebody please check me fore I am human. I am 99.995% sure.

Jump
3 to 5
5 to 7
9 to 11
6 to 10
8 to 12

Hook wire # to terminal #
L2 to 1
T4 to 2
L1 to 3
T1 to 4
T5 to 6
T8 to 8
T2 to 9
T3 to 11

 

[steamer]

Thanks to All!

The switch is open and I can get to the jumpers....at least it looks like it to me.

I can take a photo and post....I'll do that tonight

Thanks again!

Dave

 

[Dan Rowe]

Hi Dave,

I do not even know if the switch has jumpers or not but I suspect if jumpers are used they can be moved so the switch can be used for different logic.

I worked out that the x means a closed set of contacts so the ohm meter check should be quick. I attached a .pdf drawing with the contacts drawn in the FWD and REV positions with Steve's method. I jumpered T2 and T3 in the pecker head so only 5 conductors are needed between the switch and the motor.

This site indicates that L2 and T8 is CW and L2 and T5 is CCW so the rotation so rotation needs to be checked.
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/motor_connection_diagrams.htm

Sorry about the basic first response but you did say soup to nuts explaination.

Dan

Edit: Here is the diagram for the cheeper drum switch in the MSC catalog, now I see that Dave made a good choice.
http://www.industrial-electronics.com/motor_control/3h_Reversing-Motors-Drum-Switch.html

View attachment DRUM%2520SWITCH%5B1%5D[1].pdf