Gravity fed diesel burning furnace startup

A little video of startup of the small furnace at trades guilde

Video is a bit wonky on sound and speed = operator error on iPhone



Enjoy. Jeff

Description of the nozzles used

Hey Jeff-

Very nice furnaces and burners.
No matter how many burners I run across, there is always one a little bit different.
Looks like gravity feed, drip-style, with a tubulator in the combustion air stream.
And works very well.

And I am surprised to see an open tuyere; I was not aware that you could run one open like that.
I use a tight fit between the burner tube and the tuyere, otherwise I get flame blowback around the tube at the tuyere, and it overheats the burner tube.
My end of my siphon nozzle is about 1/2" back from the furnace interior wall.

I tried a variant of the drip burner, and thought I really had something that would work well, but alas, I could never get it to work.
Pictures below.
Glad to see someone has a acutal working drip-style burner with a simple spin vane in it.
I tried all sorts of drip-style burners, and could never control any of them, and could not avoid fuel puddling in the furnace.
I finally gave up with drip-style and went siphon-nozzle.

And nice windsurfing too !
I was windsurfing at one time, but am getting into sailing kayaks, so the wife can do it with me.

And finally, nice 3D printed patterns and castings.
Casting things is a lot of fun for sure.

Edit:
There are elbow-burner people, and y-tube burner people.
I like the fuel tube straight out the back, and so have stuck with that format.
The clamps can be released, and the entire drip tube assemble slid out the back; and different burner styles can be tested in the same burner tube.


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This is the siphon nozzle diesel burner I have ended up using.
It is a standard siphon nozzle with the o-ring permanently removed.

I use to use the fins cut into the end of the burner tube, but have since gone back to just a flat end on the tube.

This siphon nozzle gives a very consistent burn with very fine and consistent adjustment control.
No danger of melting the o-ring if you forget and leave the burner tube in the furnace after you turn off the burner, since it does not have an o-ring.
High temperature silver solder was used.

Fuel goes in via the ball valve with the red handle.
The fuel ball valve feeds into a needle valve, and that needle valve is calibrated for 2.7 gal/hr, and is not changed after calibration.
The fuel gets turned on and off via the ball valve.

Compressed air (about 30 psi) goes in the ball valve with the yellow handle.

Its interesting that the tip on my siphon nozzle is like a tiny version of your burner tip.

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Siphon nozzle with diesel gives a nice clean consistent burn.
Double-click on the image to play it full screen; "esc" to return to regular screen.

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I am posting these photos to provide a comparision/contrast between the various ways it can be done.

Blower is a Toro variable speed leaf blower.
The white valve pointing up near the leaf blower is a dump/adjustment combustion air valve.

The two regulators are for the atomization air (30 psi), and to pressurize the fuel tank so that it does not have to be elevated (10 psi with a 30 psi safety relief valve on the tank in case the regulator fails).

No adjustment is required for the burner ever; just turn on the compressed air and fuel ball valves, light the furnace, then close the combustion air dump valve slowly until it is fully closed; leaf blower on lowest speed. 2.7 gal/hr.

The white propane tank is actually diesel; no propane is required when using diesel.

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neat

jirvin_4505 said:

A little video of startup of the small furnace at trades guilde

Click to expand...

I have not been there since 2019. If you want to cast your small engine projects and you live nearby no point in making your own furnace and sand. Say hello to doc for me.