What Is This Metal?

Discussion in 'Metals' started by 69ZNut, Jun 10, 2018.

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  1. Jun 10, 2018 #1

    69ZNut

    69ZNut

    69ZNut

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    My made in china lathe started leaking oil like a sieve. On the back of headstock I noticed the shaft that drives the back gear could move easily with just one finger and oil oozed out.

    Drained the oil and found the sump had 1/2” of casting sand and cosmoline sludge in the bottom. All the gears were stained cosmoline brown.
    I removed the Tri-Gear-Shaft then the bushing and discovered the 15mm shaft bushing was taper machined to 15.1mm and they force fit a 14mm oil seal onto the 15mm shaft that cut deeply into it.
    The machine has about 200 run hours on it. I bought new taper bearings for the spindle.

    I am writing because I have no idea what these Chinese bushing are made of???

    They all need replaced. They have a polished Aluminum or bright steel in appearance with no porosity like one would see in sintered bronze.

    All the headstock bushings are very magnetic but do not retain any residual magnetism once the magnet is removed.

    I helped a friend replace the rear axle bushings on his Craftsman lawn tractor 2 years ago. When extracted the old bushing fell on the concrete and it rolled rapidly toward my magnetic parts tray and stuck to it. It too has the same silvery appearance?

    China discontinued this machine. Grizzly makes a similar 3in1 but ordering parts hoping they would fit gets expensive. I’d rather fix it myself the American way then send another dollar across the mud puddle to them.

    I already redesigned the bushings, seal placement and Tri-Gear-Shaft design in CAD. Now I just need to know what this metal is.

    What could this bushing material be made of?

    Also is 4140 hot or cold rolled good for a new shaft to made from?
    IMG_3790 copy.jpg
     

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  2. Jun 10, 2018 #2

    petertha

    petertha

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    I haven't used aluminum bronze myself, but that might possibly be it because its a more silvery color? I've made bushings from 660 bronze & they have turned out well. The norm in many offshore machines is to run rotating shafting inside a drilled (reamed if you are lucky) cast iron holes. Sometimes with a lubrication oil gallery of you are luckier still. Its not a good way to do things. Here I'm talking secondary shafting like apron gear shafts, power feed rod journals or leadscrew bearing blocks. You headstock definitely needs a bushing of some sort.

    OLM sells various kinds of bronze, both in solid or hollow. I tend to buy solid because the price is similar & you can remove a slug with an annulur cutter & still have a smaller leftover to make something with.
    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=850&step=2&top_cat=850
    http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=760&step=2&top_cat=850
     

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  3. Jun 10, 2018 #3

    10K Pete

    10K Pete

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    I'm with petertha on this one. Make 'em out of 660 bronze (or similar) and you can't go wrong.

    Pete
     
  4. Jun 10, 2018 #4

    petertha

    petertha

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    The other experience I'll pass on is bronze can be quite 'grabby' with large diameter conventional drills, so beware. If you dub the edge angle a bit, like what is called for drilling brass & similar alloys, they cut much better & mitigates planting them in the hole.
     
  5. Jun 10, 2018 #5

    Anatol

    Anatol

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    its not babbitt metal is it? There are different compositions, some mostly tin, some mostly lead, most with a little copper. (I'm not an expert).
     
  6. Jun 10, 2018 #6

    Charles Lamont

    Charles Lamont

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    It appears to be a steel shell, which is likely to have (or to once have had) some sort of lining, such as white metal (babbit), ptfe, or bronze. They are probably a stock item (somewhere). If you want to make your own replacements, I too would go with bronze ( a leaded, cast bronze, ideally).

    I think it is probably still the case that new Chinese machinery should be dismantled on receipt, thoroughly cleaned out, deburred, the parts fitted, and then reassembled, lubricated and adjusted before any use. I certainly found this to be the case with a recently bought rotary table, which would not budge until I fettled it properly.
     
  7. Jun 11, 2018 #7

    Anatol

    Anatol

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    'fettle'. Never seen it used in a sentence. charming.
     
  8. Jun 11, 2018 #8

    Cogsy

    Cogsy

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    Once upon a time, for a brief period, I was employed as a 'fettler' and used to fettle all night (I was working night shift). Not a fun job where I worked and was glad to be promoted to a pickler and finally a dipper after a short while, although occasionally I had to help the jiggers out too.
     
  9. Jun 11, 2018 #9

    Anatol

    Anatol

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    "used to fettle all night"
    Me too, whenI was younger, never got paid for it though. ;)
     
  10. Jun 11, 2018 #10

    redhunter350

    redhunter350

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    A good quality bearing bronze - phosphor bronze -would be best, but from my experience do not use Aluminium bronze ! It is not suitable a bearing material , I once made some bushes for a vintage 2-stroke engine, it seized in about 10 seconds, tried with more clearance and it did the same -- reverted to Phos bronze and it ran for years afterwards.
     
  11. Jun 12, 2018 #11

    Mark Duquette

    Mark Duquette

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    Did you check to see the hardness of the bushing? It is possible that the material is full hard 52100 which is common to off shore countries. Full hard bushings require good lubrication to function.
     

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