Water Cooled Webster

[bmac2]

Milled .375 off the two bearings and they finished up at what I would have to call a firm slide fit. I’m planning to fix them into place with something like Permaseal bearing retainer. If there’s something better please let me know. Once that’s done I can drill the oil hole and ream the bushings to final size.

 

[hedgehog]

thanks for doing such a great job documenting your build. great job.

 

[bmac2]

Hedgehog, thank you very much
Are you getting any of the rain out there, or is that just hitting the two guys between us?
I like lots of pictures in buildsth_wwp. This is my first crack at an IC engine. And I have deviated just a bit from the original Webster, I still contest as long as the basics guts stay the same the rest of it is like a Hollywood western (don't get me started). When I started this I thought that if I document everything, when I screw up (please see piston rings) someone will jump in and help me out. So far it’s working great.Thm:
Thanks again. This can be a weird ass hobby that few understand. It’s nice to be able to share.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Bmac2--Check your mailbox---Brian Rupnow

 

[tms6401]

Excellent pics and write-up. It's nice that you have a sense of humour as well ... something that comes in very handy in this hobby.


tms

 

[bmac2]

Thanks tms6401 glad to have you checking in

Woo Hoo!

I have the day off and I’m supposed to stain the deck but my wife is telling me “it going to be too hot (28c) you’ll have to find something else to do today”. Don’t argue “happy wife, happy life” and all that.
My buddy came through with a piece of cast so “something else” is going to be another crack at piston rings. Got the ?? whatever it used to be machined down and bored it out to .805. Then parted them off .035 thick. I put a rod in the tailstock just so I wouldn’t have to go chasing them around. The funny looking one in the middle is where there was an O ring.
Thanks again to Mechanicboy, Brian R. and Swifty (Paul) on this

 

[bmac2]

And here they are. 8 shiny new little round razor blades. The one at the bottom is from the first failed batch. Almost twice as thick.

 

[bmac2]

I broke one trying to tab it down on the taper. This is the rig I came up with to split the rings. The M3 taper has a hole for a drawbolt so with a bushing just larger than the ID of the ring I could just slowly tighten the bolt until I heard/felt them crack.

 

[bmac2]

This is my under engineered feat treating jig. Simple but I think it should work.

 

[bmac2]

I concentrated the flame (MAP) as much as I could on the ends of the fixture thinking that I would get more even heating and a slower cool down.

Oooo. Should have brought some Marshmallows

 

[bmac2]

I had the same problem Brian Rupnow ran into that the stack stuck tougher and I broke another one trying to pry it loose. The solution I came up with (that worked) was to put the stack on the horn (pointy end) of my little 10lb anvil and rotate it while gently tapping it with the handle of an X-acto knife. Just have to clean them up a bit with some wet and dry, Oh. And make a new piston

 

[Swifty]

Looking great Bob, hope that they work well.

Paul.

 

[bmac2]

Thanks Paul me to.
Is there a HMEM record for the number of pistons made for a single cylinder engine?
I think that trophy is Mine! Piston 3.0

 

[bmac2]

I wanted to go with a counter balanced crank chiefly because I like the look and thought it would be challenging to build one. After modeling it in CAD (easy) I was faced with the reality of figuring out the setup steps involved in machining one (not so easy) I’ve decided to go with the basic built up crank. This will be my second crack at a full crank? Double webbed crank? Closed web crank? Anyhow cut a couple of pieces of 5/16 cold rolled for the shafts and started work on the webs. I thought I had some ¼ by ½ bar stock but didn’t. What I do have is some 3/8 by 5/8 so I just milled it down to size.

 

[bmac2]

I glued the 2 pieces together to assure that the holes will be parallel and evenly spaced

 

[bmac2]

Placed the short length of 5/16 in the tailstock chuck and used that to rough align the piece in the 4 jaw. Then leaving the short shaft in the hole dialed it in to center.

 

[bmac2]

Faced off the .031 of both sides then hit it with a torch in the garage to separate the two parts.

 

[bmac2]

Against my better judgment I tried this coated 1/32 brazing rod the guy at the welding supply store said was “Just as good as silver solder” and half the price.

 

[bmac2]

AAarg.:wall:
I should have just used silver solder. I think the problem I had was with temperature but I was using acetylene. I’ve brazed before, usually with decent results just heat on one side stick on the other, but with this I just couldn’t get it to flow. Added some flux and that helped but man what a mess. I might have to take a mulligan on this one.

 

[bmac2]

Well after a lot of cleanup I think it salvageable. Looks like I got penetration through to the other side. Really should have practised on some scrap before using that rod. I have a few scratches but nothing terrible where the bearings will run and it runs true when checked with a dial indicator.